SchlockHorror

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm just ordering some callipers now.

So....in Hiscock's book the distances for fret slotting are written out to three decimal places of a millimetre. Whilst I appreciate that this level of accuracy by hand is..well...nigh impossible, I was wondering how accurately does everyone who slots their own fretboards work to? Do you work to the nearest millimetre, half millimetre or what? Also, I can't seem to find a long steel rule that shows half millimetres for more than the first 10cm. Does anyone know where I can get one, if I need one, that is? Thanks.

Hi. I was wondering, is it acceptable/ a good idea to make a guitar with a bolt on neck AND a neck angle? It's just that I'm not sure if I've seen one done. Would I be able to use a neck angle if I had this kind of joint construction? or would that be impossible to do, mathematically, as you'd want a clear line straight across for the joint (a la gibson) otherwise you wouldn't be able to calculate the correct angle, as the angle would be steeper/shallower depending on where the neck joins the body. (On my design it's at the 19th fret) Since my design is a 24 inch scale 24 fret guitar, and it joins at the nineteenth, and I've got the front humbucker butting up right against the end of the fretboard, I've had to extend the neck joint 3/4 of the way into the pickup cavity for the tenon to be long enough to form a decent joint. Is this going to complicate calculating the neck angle? I'm using a tune-o-matic bridge with a tailpiece, so I can't just recess the bridge to get the right action because that will probably make BAD THINGS happen when the strings hit the tailpiece as they'll probably start knocking against the face of the body, even if I recess the tailpiece too, right? The piece of wood I'm using for the neck is 3/4 of an inch thick, but I can easily glue a heel block on the end if I need to. Would this be a good idea? Wow....that was a lot of garbled questions. :S I'm hoping some of them even made sense.