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Devon Headen

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Everything posted by Devon Headen

  1. From what I've seen the best way to get a vintage look on a neck is to rub alcohol based amber onto the neck (get the right shade on scrap), then clear as usual. If you tint the clear it tends to disguise the grain. Devon
  2. I'd put the neck back on. It's gonna be hard to clean up glue without damaging the finish. My .02 Devon
  3. Would a FR with locking tuners accomplish the same thing as a locking nut? I really don't have much experience with FRs except one of my friends has one that's always out of tune . I use a lot of alternate tunings and like to be able to change them quickly, so if locking tuners do the same thing I'll probably go with that. Althout that means pumping more money into this not-so-great guitar . Devon
  4. I think he means a small affordable one that attatches to a dremel. Yes, people have been using CNCs for inlay for a long time, but it'd be nice to have an inexpensive way to speed up inlay work. Devon
  5. I totally respect that and agree with you, cause I'm hoping to get into the guitar repair business, I'm simply saying that this site is for do-it-yourselfers. Although a word of caution is definitely merited for major work like this I don't see how routing the saddle slot will cause a need for a neck reset. If you go too low then I imagine you would have to either make a new (larger) saddle, or replace the bridge, though. Filing the saddle down makes more sense to me than any other option, though. Devon
  6. Ok...didn't have use of any waterbased poly, so I used just water with food coloring to try to get a nice dark blue. I mized probably 7 drops of blue with a tiny bit of water (very strong solution). The color came out as a turquoise color. I wiped several coats, and it is, like Drak said, a cartoon color. Very, very very, bright green-blue. Any hints? should I just get the poly? Thanks, Devon
  7. I'd like to use this, but first I want to be sure. I can shoot nitro lacquer over this right? I always thought nitro and poly weren't compatible. Devon
  8. Very sound advice from Hoser Rob. So many times I find myself telling new players to just play a few and find the one that suits them best. The only problem with that is, what if they can't play anything whatsoever. Defintely try to find someone that knows about guitars that you can trust to go along with you.
  9. I've been reading about piezo recently, and you're right. I thought piezo elements were just a different kind of magnet at the time I wrote that. I still don't quite understand what piezo is, though. The synthetic saddles are uniform in density, and ivory bone aren't. With ivory and bone you can have denser and lighter areas. That's what Dan Erlewine's Guitar Player Repair book says at least. From what I've seen most manufacturers do recommend synthetics (ie tusq) over natural bone and ivory. Devon
  10. they're probably just not used to playing in tune I know that feeling . I'm thinking of either blocking off the trem completely on my strat and making it a hard tailpiece, or fitting it with a FR. I just don't like the idea of having to unlock the nut to change tunings . Devon
  11. I reread that just now, and I came off very rude. That's not my intention at all, so please don't take it that way. I was simply trying to make a point. Thanks, Devon
  12. And helps you from making bad habits that are really hard to break. Devon
  13. Kind of off subject, but the only reason I was thinking about buying the Stewmac calipers was the ability to measure fretwire. How exactly did you make it so that it can measure fretwire? I don't see how it's possible, so I'd like to know how you did it so I don't have to pay 50 bucks for calipers that I'll rarely use. Devon
  14. I think we know hoser rob's opinion about repairing guitars now. Yes, guitar work is precise, but the point of this forum is self repair, and self building. I don't think he'd be asking how to fix it if he didn't want to do it himself. Devon
  15. Don't think there's enough wood for a scarf joint it there. I'd say that you're probably gonna have to recut it with more wood for a scarf joint. Don't do anything without a second opinion though. Devon
  16. Go to the electronics forum, and there is a pinned topic. Devon
  17. Fretwork most definitely has to be absolutely precise. The more accurate the better. Most everything on a guitar is that way, but the frets are so integral, in solidbodies, I feel like it is the most precise thing. Devon
  18. Ok...can't find any deft around here, but I did find this stuff called Watco lacquer gloss. It says something about being a petroleum derivitive if that helps. Is this nitro lacquer? Here's a link If it is it's only 20 bucks a gallon so I'd definitely use it. Thanks, Devon
  19. Lowes has them for 15 bucks. I didn't pay really close attention though. I think it was Bosch, 1/4" shank, 1/2 cutter (guess), 1 bearing, 1" deep though. That's why I didn't really look at it much. far too deep for one pass with my router. Devon
  20. 100? talk about trying to compete in a hard market. Devon
  21. Last time I checked most covers were made out of metal
  22. you could probably scratch the plating off it fairly easily though. That'd be even more obvious than clear plastic . I'm not sure if it'll hold a finish, either. Maybe the pour on two part epoxy finish so the plating won't scratch also. It'd probably be a little difficult to cut/bevel it without scratching some of the reflective stuff off of it. Sounds like it'd give a cool effect though Devon
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