USMCHueston0311

Anyone plan/build custom templates for $?

Doug what are the taper dimensions of the neck where the board starts/stops?

Pmed Doug.

Doug I think ill take Rn13. Can you make these with a long deep set tenon? Also can you make without the profile carve on the rear of the neck? I need alot of work at that part.

yes its a violin plane

Hey bro I got a nice small one. I have to duble check on the measurement but its tiny like no wider than 1 inch. Maybe we could do some swapping?

Yeah man, thinkin something like this, just with the dark red instead of the black edges. I think itd be killer with some gold hardware too! :

Hmm may have to try that out on some of the scrap maple I have left from the top... I like the black edge as well...

I agree it would look good with gold hardware...

Like a Dark red around the edges into the lighter red? I was also talking to a local luthier who is the head luthier for j buckland designs, and he told me something that really made alot of sense when it comes to making bodies/top... He said Glue your maple to each piece of your body seperately, and then join those and glue them. That way your joint is a perfect cross at the end grain, looks good, and you have no issue of centering top to bodies and all that. Really made alot of sense.

And yeah I know the argument of well Im good and can keep center and all that is there, but I really think that I am going to definitely utilize that for my future builds.

What do yall think?

I have never worked or used ash for any of my builds before. My god that stuff is heavy and super hard!

Hey man. Cut your Faux Binding, route to the level you want to leave at the end of your carve. Then draw topography lines around the body and place them about 1/2 a part. Then grab your router a rough route on top of those lines increasing the shallowness of each cut as you go. The grab an orbital with 120 grit, and some small ibex planes, and go to work...

Ok gents went vaseline route and put a very thin bead of silicone on the bottom, enough to stick, but not hold entirely.

Also... this is a very dumb question, but I cant seem to find it anywhere.... Radius the fretboard first THEN saw the fret slots, or vice versa???

fret board is attached.

ALSO, is there a good way to get the body down to the right size without a router? Hard question to ask without pointing out what I mean, hopefully someone understands what Im asking.

Saw the fret slots first, so that ensure accurate depth. Then do your dot inlays if you are going to, and then radius/polish.

Use a hand plane, a thickness sander, or a planer. Thats about the only way to get it right. Why dont you just buy a pre-slotted and radiused board from stewmac or lmii etc? Judging by your questions it seems that you are completely new to this and that would be a VERY wise decision. Cutting a fret board is difficult without the know how or the right tools man! You can pick up pre-slotted boards for 20-40 bucks usually.

/

What thickness are u sanding down to on the headstock?

Gotcha. Ya that sounds pretty good. i will probably try that.

That top is going to be nice. I like the bottom dye combo.

Good to see you again.

SR

Its very dark and mixed together in person. How do you feel about a totally maple neck over that color of finish? What about the ash. Im still deciding how I want to finish that.

This is my first build in about 3 years. I finally came into some decent tools, and have some wood saved so here we go.

Specs

PRS Custom 24 Semi Hollow with 1 F Hole

PRS Scale

24 Fret

5A Flamed Maple Book Matched Top

Body is Ash 2 piece

Neck is curly maple laminated, with a 5a Birdseye Board

Maple Top

Ash Body

This suckers Heavy!!!

Fooling around with some stain mixtures.

Top and body

Hollow pattern

Comments and concerns please!

Feels great to be back.

I guess 3x3x32. Somewhere in that area. Long enough to have a long set tenon, and a thick heel to carve down.

In need of a planed, sanded, and surfaced laminated neck blank. I would prefer a curly maple neck with purple heart, or just flamed maple laminates. Block peg head, and rough heel block. Gimme some prices!

I am building a neck template jig similar to mykas, and I was wondering what the trig formula is to find out how high each end of the blocks need to be in order to achieve the desired neck angle. In other words, how to setup the jig correctly.

Ive got one. 45 shipped. PM me.

hey man when i did mine i used a cove bit in the drill press.... just put the bearing in the control hole, or free hand it if you like check mine out

hey man when i did mine i used a cove bit in the drill press.... just put the bearing in the control hole, or free hand it if you like check mine out

hey man when i did mine i used a cove bit in the drill press.... just put the bearing in the control hole, or free hand it if you like check mine out

I talked to him and he said hes totally cool with it... IDK why i did that lol, thats definitely a first. He wants me to leave it how it is..

anynoe see any problems with this

Heres the specs

Body:

Black Limba 5A Flamed maple 1/2 in Top

Natural Binding

PRS SC245 Pickups, Bridge Tuners

Neck

Honduras Rosewood

Ebony Fingerboard

Paua Dot Inlays

White Side dots

10 Radius

Medium Frets

EIRW Headstock veneer

Started top carve

I forgot to do the neck pocket before i started carve

Im just gonna addit after, i didnt carve the neck pocket area, so im just gonna put the 4 degree angle into the actual pocket then level the top to that angle.

comments suggestions?

-steve