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I forgot to say that the guitar has a Fishman piezo bridge that is activated by pulling a knob (the piezo volume) ;-)

I'll post some pics in the next days. I stained the top using 2 colors: I initially stained with brown (mahogany brown) then when dry I washed it with a dump cloth removing as much as possible of the color. At he end, when dry, I applied the dark red (cherry). That's it. Let me know if you have any question ;-)

Sorry, I mean that this is my last guitar in cronological order. I'm working now on a strat-like guitar. Probably that will be my last guitar because I have no more room at home :-( I need to sell something but I love them all...

Yes I have. I'll post them in the next days ;-)

I just finished my last project: a Neck-through guitar with a Semi-hollow body. Here are the specifications: Body · Semi-hollow body · Mahogany body with flamed maple top · Center line made of abalone · Finish: cherry Neck · Laminated Mahogany/Wenge · '59 Les Every feed-back is welcome ;-) · Indian rosewood fret board · Abalone inlay at the 12th fret · Neck-Through construction Pickups · PRS HFS and Vintage Bass · Fishman piezo bridge Wiring · PRS 5-way rotary · Passive piezo bridge activated pulling a knob Here are some pictures:

I just finished my last project: a Neck-through guitar with a Semi-hollow body. Here are the specifications: Body · Semi-hollow body · Mahogany body with flamed maple top · Center line made of abalone · Finish: cherry Neck · Laminated Mahogany/Wenge · '59 Les Every feed-back is welcome ;-) · Indian rosewood fret board · Abalone inlay at the 12th fret · Neck-Through construction Pickups · PRS HFS and Vintage Bass Wiring · PRS 5-way rotary Here is a picture: Every feed-back is welcome ;-)

Can you tell me exacly how you bent the top? You wrote that you used water and heat, how exaclty? How glued it on the body, did you use only clamps? Thank you ;-) P.S.: very nice work, I like it!

There is a new pickup that can give you a piezo/acoustic sound on a solid body, its name is "Twintone". http://www.jimreed.it/eng/index.php Is there someone who knows something more about this pickup?

A friend asked me what techniques I usually use to stain. Here I'll report some consideration: I usually use a water based stain [...]. I think that is similar to the StewMac ones. In my Blue PRS copy (http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=30177&st=0&p=332072&#entry332072) the technique used was: I applied only ONE coat of a water base stain then (BEFORE IT WAS DRY) I wiped with a damp cloth: this technique enhances the flame. Remember that if the final color is too dark, the final result, when laqued, will be dark and you will see the flame only under the direct light. I did something similar with the tiger-eye color of this guitar: I first applied a single coat of brown stain (mahogany color) then before it was dry I wiped on it a coat of orange stain: this second coat just replaced (washing it) brown with the orange on the surface of the maple leaving the brown in the flame. The result is better than what you can see in the picture. On the other hand, I alway do some staining tests on scaps because each piece of maple react in a different way and the final result is always different. I hope this will help ;-)

My PRS copy has a flat top (parallel) like yours. In my opinion the easiest way is to do it flat because with angled neck you are not sure until you reach the end if all the elements (neck, pickups, BRIDGE,...) will be at the correct height ;-) To solve the problem of the horns I worked on the curving shape. You can see it here: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...mp;#entry332072

I'll be very pleased to do it ;-) I'm building it for a friend of mine and he is choosing the color, the pickups, the wiring and all the other details. When it will be ready I'll post all the pictures (the building ones are the same as the ones I posted for this guitar). :-D

I build guitars as hobby. This is my last project, I started it from a scratch: This guitar has been inspired by a Tom Anderson I saw some months ago. These are the specs: Body · Solid body · Mahogany with flamed maple top (curved) · Abalone center line inlay · Finish: tiger eye Neck · Mahogany · Thin D profile (Ibanez style) · Indian rosewood fret board · Compound Radius fretboard · Abalone inlay at the 12th fret · bold-on Pickups · Rails Wiring · 3 switch, one for each PU · 1 switch for coil split Here are some other pics: Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5

In the same time I built another guitar that is similar to this one, the differences are: Roller nut instead of Graphtech nut Chrome hardware instead of gold 2 humbuckers and one singlecoil (but same wing) All mahogany body (without maple top) Natural finish I'll post some pictures when competed ;-)

Here you can see 2 pictures of how I curved the body, I hope they will clarify how I did it: Guiding the router for body curving Detail Let me know if you need some more detailed pictures ;-)

Thank you all :-) To do the curving I used a rounded router bit, you can see the result here: Curving, first step Then I used the sand paper to make it smoother: Curving, sanded I'll post a picture of the guide I applied on the router to do this job, stay tuned;-)

Here are the pics: Neck blank Body blank Body Profiling Body Profiling Maple top glued Maple top profiled Body curving (first stap) Body curving completed Truss rod installed Fretboard gluing Fretboard Inlay gluing Fretboard inlay Neck before shaping Neck shaped (with a rasp) Neck sanded Headplate before sanding Frets hammering Tremolo cavity routing Tremolo installed Neck pocket routed Inlay on the body Body stained If you have any question I'll be pleased to give you an answer :-)

Wow, you are completely right the two guitars looks really similar! The inlay on the fretboard are similar too!

If someone is interested I can post some pictures of the building process :-)

This is a very good idea. I do something similar with my templates: I don't cut out the pickup cavities so I use that area to firmly screw the template to the body blank in order to ensure that it will stay there when I profile the body with a guided router. The holes, in the next steps, are always my references (all the other templates are done to scree exactly in the same place --> an example is the neck pocket template). I like PRSs (... I build one that I posted on this forum so if you have any question dont hesitate to ask), I'm sure you will do a wonderful work :-) I'll stay tuned ;-)

Thank you! The band of inlay between the sides of the top have been inspired by the PRS Santana. If you have the pieces of abalone of the right measurements (in particular the width) it's really easy, you just need to have a router of the same width and a Dremel. It took me 15 minutes (and it was the first time I did a job like that). At the same time of the building this one I built another one completely in mahogany and here is the picture showing the routing of the line: Picture I fixed a piece of wood that I used to guide the Dremel.

Hello everybody! I'm back again! This is my last project. I started this project beeing inspired by a Tom Anderson I saw. These are the specs: Body · Solid body · Mahogany with flamed maple top (curved) · Abalone center line inlay · Finish: tiger eye Neck · Mahogany · Thin D profile (Ibanez style) · Indian rosewood fret board · Compound Radius fretboard · Abalone inlay at the 12th fret · bold-on Pickups · Rails Wiring · 3 switch, one for each PU · 1 sitch for coil split Here are some other pics: Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5

Hello Andy, I'll be very pleased to answer to your questions. Let's start with these ones ;-) I don't know exactly what kind of mahogany it is (I suppose african one), I bought a tree slice (as I love to call it): it was a piece of mahogany of 3m of length and 60cm of width. The finish is just oil: I didn't apply any other product on it a part on the fretboard that, due to the fact it is maple, it tends to become grey, I applied a couple of coats if sandind sealer. On the mahogany I applied an oil that is a little redish and enhances the beatiful color of this wood. This is the link of the product I used: http://www.saratogasforza.com/ita/products...3-88BCD095D74F} I suppose that you will not have any particular problem in finding a similar product: it is simply oil for mahogany. The main advantage of this kind of finish is the sound: pure wood. I really love the sound of this guitar: full and warm. Let me know if you have any other question.

The best will be to create a flat surface in the arm rest area or you can (with a router, with a planner or something else) create a kind of pocket in that you will glue a wook block.