Mors Phagist

Whenever I try to load the Project Guitar Homepage I get an error message, regardless of the web browser I'm using. Is the main site down or something?

Nice! I'd like to see how this one turns out.

You're not a luthier until you screw something up then spend a bunch of time fixing it, so nobody ever finds out. It's quite a skill, really.

Thats the real art of being a craftsman.

Its got my vote. XD

8 String Octobass? I only see 6 strings... :/

Menapia got my vote. Dat scarf...

Tore out all the sheilding tape in the input, and it always picks up now.

Thanks guys!

I might have to do a bit of rewiring to get the best sound out of it though, as I switched it to a different wiring diagram than the one provided by Dimarzio.

Its not touching any wires, but its touching part of the metal where the jack connects to. It would be easiest just to remove the material around it.

Thanks guys!

Yes, I extensively measured the distance from nut to bridge. I currently don't have anything to measure with, although I have measured many times previously.

But onto something I can fix now, DO I REMOVE THE SHIELD TAPE FROM THE INPUT CAVITY?

No just make sure it is not contacting the hot input of the jack.

SR

I think it is, so I'll make sure to remove that as quickly as I can. Thanks guys.

Yes, I extensively measured the distance from nut to bridge. I currently don't have anything to measure with, although I have measured many times previously.

But onto something I can fix now, DO I REMOVE THE SHIELD TAPE FROM THE INPUT CAVITY?

I shielded the entire cavity with copper shielding. Is that the problem? Should I just tear all that out? XD

I feel like a I did a good job soldering, so I don't think its a wiring contact issue.

I didn't use the stewmac template, a friend slotted the fretboard for me along with where the nut needs to go. The scale is still 25.5, I don't have anything to measure it here though, but I measured it last weekend with a ruler and tape measure.

Actually, it could be that point that dpm99 said, it all depends on where the contact with the string ends. I'll check this and get back.

Still looking for a local luthier/tech. XD

Almost done with my 7 string, but theres some problems left.

I slotted the nut appropriately, set the action, and tuned to standard. When I fret a note, its a sharper pitch than what it should be.

So, I tuned the frets appropriately to their respective notes and it has good intonation without being set up yet. I am able to play fretted notes all across the strings and everything sounds fine, great even, but anything involving an open string is horribly out of tune. Assuming I played an F on my 6th string, the open string would be a much flatter than normal E, so much of a difference it makes anything with open strings sound awful.

I was told a zero fret could help with this, but if I were to install one, would it alter the scale length?

If it does, I may as well slot the freboard for a new nut, fill the bridge holes, and change the bridge position.

This is a 25.5" scale length.

The second problem is one with the input. When you plug the guitar in normally, you have to adjust the cable in order for it to work, and you have to maintain that position. If I remove the input and have the wiring exposed, as in the jack is not mounted to the guitar, and plug it in, it functions fine. Why would this have anything to it functioning or not?

I intend to have a pro luthier/tech take a look at this if I can't figure these out myself.

Tapping on pickups is a crude way at best of testing to see whether pickups are wired, or wired properly

Thats how I tested, but I also took another guitar, strummed all the strings, and held it up to the pickup while twisting the volume and tone knobs.

I'll string the instrument up and pursue wiring correction at a later time.

I got them because I heard they would give me some more responsive/clear tone.

Still wondering why this thing isn't working, but I'll string it and set it up before trying to wire it again.

Oh ****. I might've just started some massive misdirection.

I forgot that when pots are measured they go by 250k, 500k, or 1000k-1meg. When I think of those numbers, the k isn't really needed as its implied, so when I said 1k, I meant 1000, which would be 1000k, which is a 1 meg.

I am using two 1 MEG pots. 1000k potentiometers, for the tone and volume.

I am terribly sorry about that.

Yeah, I'm positive they are both 1k potentiometers. Would this be a problem? I thought it would help with the guitar overall but if its whats making it NOT work...

Ground wires in Dimarzios are the green and the bare wires. They are both attached to a pot. I have wires connecting that spot to the bridge, and the ground terminal of my jack. Is there any other kind of troubleshooting I should try?

Ok, So I need a capacitor, but I might be able to get one...

Series seems more appropriate as I would rather not take a chance with wiring.

Soldering to the Pots is only for grounding, correct? Could I instead ground to the bridge? Thanks for the help!

I got this Diagram from the Dimarzio site, and I was wondering on how to do this correctly, or if Parallel wiring would be a better option. Links are here:

http://www.dimarzio.com/sites/default/files/diagrams/1hum1vol1tone.pdf

http://www.dimarzio.com/sites/default/files/diagrams/1hum1vol1tone_parallel.pdf

I also don't have a resistor (Or capacitor, the word is slipping me right now for some reason), so is there any way to get around that? The pickup is a Dimarzio D-Activator 7, and I have 1k potentiometers for the tone and volume.

Can I get around the resistor/capacitor in some way? Is it really needed?

What are the benefits/trade offs of parallel wiring? If I recall correctly, it lessens cancelling power but gives more high end tone. Could anyone elaborate more upon this?

Go for the V!

Why not just make a new neck? It would've saved you quite a bit of labor and the body looks quite nice. It seems to be a set neck, so why not just slice off the neck and route the pocket or wedge it out?

Or why not scrape off the FB and reglue?

Or did you just "Rage quit" the project?

As for the OP, if you have excess dust, just use an air hose or a dry/damp cloth. How long did you wait between washing it with water and putting the poly on?

Looks awesome, great carve.

I carved a PRS recently, and I could never get chisels to work right for me. I had to use rasps.

Still turned out pretty nice, and I'll post pictures soon.

I have an EXACT template for the body shape, so if you need two dimensional body measurements, I can give you those. As for the carve, I was unable to get a pattern.

But, I can tell you that the tops are 1/2 inch and carve down until about 3/16ths remain uncarved, so you get a sort of "binding" look. Other than that, I would pencil in a carve that you like and go with it. The things that make hand made guitars special is the fact that they variate from the actual style, and thats what makes it original.

Are those wide enough to have a top (Or full guitar) cut out of them? They seem a bit too skinny unless you plan on bookmatching them. But yeah, cool pieces and I'd like to see what you do with them.

1. As long as its hard enough to hold the frets and has some visual appeal, it really doesn't matter. Cost is another variable, such as if its worth buying a more figured expensive piece rather than a good, fair priced piece.

2. Ebay can give you some good deals, although shipping could possibly cost more than the wood itself. XD

3. The number of effects shouldn't affect the sound, but the scale length does have a factor. I forget exactly what variations do what for the sound, although I assume that a longer scale gives more of a bass/low end quality, as most 8 strings have a 27.5 inch scale for the thickest strings. This would also follow some rules of wind instruments where that the longer a distance the air travels, the lower the note. Theres a specific name for this, but it eludes me. Someone else here could probably elaborate more...