Mors Phagist

On a side note, what if you were to chill a guitar neck so it contracts ever so slighty, and then put it into the neck pocket for an extremely tight neck fit?

I figured since we were talking about Heating, why not cooling?

Bring it down to around 33 Degrees Farenheit so the water inside the wood cannot freeze and expand, and the rest of the material will contract. Insert into neck pocket, Attach screws, allow guitar to sit in shop for a while, and get an amazing neck fit.

Is this feasible?

Is the clear plastic layer pulling off the stuff that goes on most shiny plastic parts basicly as protection for shipping? Pulling it off will not stop the outgassing but it will help get it over with.

SR

It might be for protection, but I thought it was part of the covers itself. But now that you say it, thats probably what it was for... Ill take it off and hope it stops.

I got this guitar in December, and the case about 2 months ago, and pretty much all of the hardware, excluding the tuners, Knobs, Pup selector, and Frets have some Corrosion. The bridge has it very slight, but the Nut and Pup cavity covers are getting kind of serious...

Baking the wood before shaping it might help, but if the neck is already made and in good shape, I wouldn't risk putting it in an oven.

The Fretboard and neck might expand at different rates, and pop off... IDK, it just seems like a bad Idea to me. But these other guys know more about it, so go with whatever they had said.

Hmm. Some of the plastic for the covers (Suspension cover, Electronic covers, Truss rod cover) are made out of a wierd plastic, and a clear layer of plastic is coming off it. If I pull that peeling stuff off, will it stop?

And I just realized what the case smells like. Like a LOT of New Car smell.

Hell, now Im concerned.

My Ibanez Xiphos has some corroding Hardware. Unfortunately, I think its from inferior metals used in the parts.

Workingman, What about plastic corroding the hardware?

Phoning them might be easier.

Can you order over the phone with them if you have a credit card number?

Locking tuners probably aren't neccessary, and whether they lock or not apparently isn't important with a locking nut.

But, I still want quality tuners, which I can buy 7 of.

Im looking at the open back/trim lock tuners, so I think Ill call about those...

No, i dont play much anymore, but still. Still dont get why you need locking tuners with a locking nut.

Extra quality for not too much more cash, perhaps extra tuning stability, and are quicker to use.

Sperzel has an odd ordering system (To me anyway) so I don't think Ill go through that. Nice tuners though.

Thanks for the links guys.

I need a site where I can buy 7 locking tuners, prefferably from a good brand. Ive browsed around, and I can't seem to find Individual locking tuners, and the sets of 7 Ive found have been ESP/LTD, and are non locking...

But Ive got them in my shopping cart anyway, with a 7 string 48mm Locking nut and Licensed floyd 7 on GPDUSA.com...

Id rather not be forced into buying 7 sets of 6 Gotoh Locking tuners (42 tuners) and making 5 more Seven strings than I planned on.

And I would also like it if I could also find 7 string 48mm locking nuts and Floyds on the site, so I could order everything at once and save on shipping.

I rekon the gold looks good against the green.

Imagining...

Yeah, it does look good.

Normally, I'd toss it at this point, but the body wood has such a nice thick resonant tone to it that it's worth re-claiming somehow.

Why toss it? All is not lost.

I thought the top looked nice.

Aye, a build thread is no place for a CNC over Handmade argument.

I routed the truss just a hair lower then I needed to so that I could place a small strip over it and I wouldnt have to worry about getting any glue in the truss cavity when installing the fretboard. Steps that were probably unnecessary, but I did it anyways

Its not usually necessary for a wooden strip to be put into the truss rod rout, I would've suggested using a thin piece of tape, Scotch or Masking, to cover it to prevent glue from seeping in.

Thanks Guitarnut. I did some measuring today and I think I can leave 4.5mm reasonably easily. If anyone else would like to chime in here I'd like to hear when anyone else has to say on the subject.

On a current Seven string neck Im making, after I had it carved, the thinnest part of the neck was 10/16ths. And the truss rout has to be at least 7/16ths. So I have 3/16ths of clearance on the neck, or .1875 Inches.

So basically what guitar nut just said.

Saying if the 3/16ths works for me, Im going to progressively make my necks thinner and thinner untill it is impossible to do so.

Good work on the build, hope to see it finished.

The 7 Im making needs a 48mm nut, so would anyone know of any compatible bridges?

On the 7 Im making, I didn't have them in a line. It looks better if they're offset, depending upon the headstock design.

I think the design you have should work well though.

And people have said Ive cheated by using a milling machine for routing...

That CNC machine must make things nice.

Cool shape, and those cracks were unfortunate. Glad to see you filled them.

Id like to see how this build turns out.

There are a plethra of tunings for 7 strings. You can essentially take any standard tuning and add an extra bass string, or tune the bass 7th string as if it were the 6th, and add an extra treble string. Many variations of Drop tunings and "Open"tunings.

When I get mine completed, Im going to be using ADGCFAD, or D standard with a 7th Bass string.

Wish I could make builds half as proffesional as you.

Final pictures soon? Its been 3 years! According to the Invision board timer.

Decided to switch from the X2N to the Blaze Bridge.

BUT, before buying any pups, I was going to tour a few music stores and see how their 7 strings played.

Thanks for the Ebay/Harmony central tip, Ill browse a bit.

Obviously If I don't like the tone I can swap pups, but why not try and shoot in the right direction first? Speculations may be wrong, but sometimes they pay off.

1/8th is too thin, and most Fretboards I see now are 3/16ths. So I guess Ill try and find a few good cuts of something larger than 3/16ths.

So its Hard maple thats known for brightness? Hmm...

Is that 6 and 1/8th" enough to cover the whole guitar when bookmatched? When you bookmatch it your going to get a sheet 12 and a quarter", by 23" by 9/18th".

For some reason, I cant seem to remember how wide guitars are.

this thread should definately be stickied & be proclaimed up there with Melvyn's tome for compulsory reading BEFORE attempting to build a guitar - or use power tools come to that!!

Also, its funny as hell to read.

near death experience/least intelligent moment that I actually survived - trying to solder a ring on the end cap of an EXTINCT .22 shell casing to make a pendant when I was 17 - lets just say scorched & solder splattered face, bent soldering iron, dented ceiling, temporary deafness, temporary blindness, ringing ears, laughing brother,etc. etc.

So you tried to solder a bullet casing? What happened? Was there still powder in it?

1/16 thinner.. That's custom. Charge Extra.

Thats GENIUS!

No pics, sorry.

Im working on a 7 string build, and here are the specs.

Soft Maple Body

Mahogony Neck

Bloodwood fretboard

I chose mahogony as a neck material to balance out the harshness of the maple, and the pups I've chosen should balance it even more.

25.5" Scale

24 or 27 Frets. Haven't decided. Probably 24.

John Petrucci's Liquifire Neck and X2N Bridge pups. X2N may be swapped for 7 string D-Activators.

Locking tuners and Locking nut.

7 String Licensed Floyd rose Bridge.

Costs: $290 Minimum, $452 Maximum, $368 Estimated.

So, my questions are...

Im thinking of swapping the XN2. I would like a variety of tones in this guitar, and would like a specific pup to balance out the Maple's Brightness. The Liquifire is set in my mind, so what would you guys suggest?

I can find 5'x6"x1/8" pieces of bloodwood on eBay for like $3.

Is 1/8th inch enough for a Fretboard? If not, I could use some as a headstock veneer.

What is a good example of "Bright"? I hear the term tossed around a lot with Maple, but if I could get a youtube video of someone playing a "Bright" guitar, I might get a better hold of the term. Preferably playing Metal on a bright guitar.

The neck heel is 7/8ths deep, and with the FB, it would be 1 inch. If I were to use a floyd rose, how far down should I have the pocket for the "Best" action?

So just over a half inch? Hmm... I would say yes, but be careful about it.

But before you do anything, ask yourself if you could use it for a different project if it ends up "iffy" on this one. Do you ever use uncarved tops?

Also, whats the cost and footage of this piece?

My first "oh ****" moment is still very recent. I finished my first build about 2 months ago and realized my Floyd Rose Trem was about 1/2 an inch too far back. Measured and measured and measured, but still missed by that much. I've got a plan for repair but will wait until my pocketbook and ego recover. Ended up with a beautiful Swamp Ash VIP that makes a nice wall hanging. I guess just my first step in my education process.

So a 26" scale?

Now that Im finished with my first build, Its not so much "Oh ****".

Now its more "Sigh".

Apparently my bridge position was off, so the scale length was right, but the Heavy E almost hangs off the fretboard.

*SIGH*

The action is huge, due to it being fretless with a non action adjustable bridge. I had to add an extra 1/8th inch of wedges just to get the string buzz on the FB to stop.

*SIGH*

On this next one though, Im almost all done with the neck, the body is ready for work, and I haven't said "Oh ****" yet. More "Damn.", and "That'll probably sand out..."