Mors Phagist

I am currently making a strat, and Im wondering if I should have a Black Pickguard and red body, or a red pickguard and a black body.

Which looks more Badass?

You won't go to jail for it or face a fine, but you may spontaneously combust for angering the guitar gods.

Oh No! My worst fear!

So how does that insulteth ye holy guitare Gods? Does it screw with the tone or something or destroy the finish over time?

"THOU SHALT NOT USE CAR PRODUCTS ON THE GREATEST INSTRUMENT OF ALL TIME! YE SHALL BE PUNISHED!"

*Combusts into flames.

But lets be serious now, why is this illegal? Or is merely the sale of guitars with Bondo illegal?

Thats what all mine look like.

When I dream...

I would really like to try out that guitar and see what qualities pine gives. Too bad Ill have to wait for my own to finish...

Im making a practice build out of Pine at the moment. Its pretty heavy/dense stuff, and has some quality to it. It may sound good, it may not, but Ill finish the guitar irregardless and pray.

It will probably sound like crap, as it is my first build and I have no funds for quality pickups. (Im just taking all the hardware off of a Brandless, High production/Low Quality Strat shaped guitar)

Lulz. Make a body that looks like a Boat or anchor. I actually saw some recently and was wondering how well it would work for a guitar.

Why not have a central body type, that you could just "assemble" into the other shapes?

Im sure your could find a shape that is included in the bodies that you want to change to. Basically a main piece, fully functional on its own, with attachments that could make it into a Strat, Tele, or whatever else.

In example, you could take a Rhodes V and turn it into an Ibanez Xiphos with a few attachment pieces.

I had this idea awhile back too, except that the main shape of the "Hub" guitar would have tone dials/Pick up Selector/anything else in the general places where they would be on any guitar, and then you take parts/additions and build off that. Im sure someone could devise a system of snaps, locks, even pegs that would work.

Hell, I might try this sometime.

Ok, Ive got two fretboards ill try, One ill finish, the other Ill use some 1000+ sandpaper on.

I got the answers I needed, and I want to delete this thread, but my edit isn't working at the moment, but Ill delete as soon as I can... So heres one more finish related question.

What about the finishes on maple necks? Ive hit the whole thing with 320 grit, and Ive gotten all visible scratches out. How should I go about finishing this?

Using bondo on a guitar is illegal... be careful

wat

I just made a guitar neck that had some chips from routing in the headstock...

My shop teacher told me that regular putty wouldn't work, as it wouldn't adhere right and just fall off eventually. So he brought some Car body filler out...

Am I going to die? Or land in Jail? Face a fine? I don't plan on selling it, and Im painting over it...

How do you achieve a good finish on a fretboard? What grade sandpaper should I end on before adding Lacquer and such?

Also...

When inlaying fret dots, I can use a Drill press to create the cavity that the dots go into, correct?

Ok, Thanks.

What does Fender do for Squier strat Rosewood Fretboards? Do they just have the raw wood, or do they lacquer it?

Thats pretty crazy actually, I hope you can get it done.

I made two Oak FBs, slightly radiused, ready to be Inlayed/Attached/Fretted, Whatever. It is fairly attractive wood, so is there any factor than looks and slight tonal differences between FB wood?

I could be getting some Walnut on Monday, So I might make a neck and FBs.

Anything to know about Oak and Walnut for Necks and FBs?

A windex bottle?

I'm sorry. I just don't get it. I guess I'm a not cool enough to understand that appeal. I have a 5 year old who can do that with her paints.. most of her stuff looks like that when she's done being an "Artist".

Try the straw, as someone above said, along with the other ideas, such as practicing before doing it.\

I'd say try and get a bloody handprint on it.

I was always under the impression soft maple wouldn't work well for a fretboard. But now it seems it wouldn't hurt to make a few Practice/Real fretboards out of some decent soft maple...

Honestly I think some of what you said is confusing.

1. are you measuring off an unfretted board. Makes a difference

2. Neck pocket bolt-on or glue-in

I will assume you are putting on a Premade neck. First look at another guitar and measure or eye ball how high the strings are off the end of the board. Make a shim if you like to match that height.

Then with the neck in place use the shim and a straight edge lining one end up with the slot on the nut and the other on the shim and see what you have.

It's up to you to make your best guess as to how high your action will be or you want. Even without strings attached you want the bridge at a lower than normal position. But at the same time you also have to make sure once you get the st strings on it will be normal height and the set screws are not at the bottom of the saddle.

If you are making the body error on the side of two shallow and do a test fit you can always remove more wood from the pocket

Its a Through-neck, isn't it? Then why would he need a premade neck, let alone a pocket...

I would suggest filing as more of a last resort. Try adjusting the action and boosting the string gauge. If that fails, adjust the truss rod. And If that fails, start filing.

Edit: Forgot the truss rod doesn't have much influence in the upper frets, so its pretty useless to adjust it...

Strengthwise...they used to build warships from oak...they seldom fold and sink because the wood was not stong enough.

They were able to hold up to Cannon ball blasts!

Don't try to smash it on stage, It'll probably bounce back and give you a concussion.

The way SwedishLuthier talked about the tonalities, and it seems interesting, but besides its brightness, What would the lows sound like?

If you feel you can work with it, go for it, I really hope this build works out for you.