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ROCKETROB

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Everything posted by ROCKETROB

  1. I guess no body is interested in others' mistakes. Anyway, I got a reply back from the manufacturer of KILZ primer and the answer is no; it cannot be used under lacquer. So file that away on your list of things NOT to do. Rob.
  2. I'm starting to put the finish on my "tele with a twist" project. This is my first attempt at building so the going has been slow, but good so far. Here's my problem; I just sprayed on a coat of Kilz primer by mistake( I mistook it for BINS primer) Is this stuff compatible with my color coat (reranch vintage white) and clear lacquer top coat? It's the original kind, oil based, and can be used with water or oil based paints. If I have to sand it off I will. How far back should I sand? the body already had 2 coats of sealer and 1 coat of reranch white primer. Oh well... the learnig continues. Rob
  3. I used a piece of sheet metal I had laying around. A piece 4x6 or 3x5 will work. 16 gauge (about 1/16" thick) with straight edges. File or grind it sharp on the edge you want to use for scraping. You can also buy them from Stewart-MacDonald. Rob.
  4. If I remember correctly ,Santana, in the early days was using a Gibson SG wth P-90s. My favorite Santana tone, by the way. I live in the SF BAy Area and saw him many times when he was comming up. Oh oh, dating myself now... With the chambered body you might get a more "woody" sound like some of the great old blues guys; another great tone.
  5. Wow! Scraping binding cam make you a nervous wreck. I got it done this morning but I was a little scared doing it. Taking a scraper to the top of your body for the first time is tough. I put some tape on my scraper where it could ride against the body without gouging it; then when the binding was almost flush I took the tape off and carefuly did the rest. The sides were a little easier, but i had some areas where the binding was slightly deeper than the wood next to it. Not alot so I lightly sanded the wood to blend the area. This binding stuff is very labor intensive. I really like the way it looks on a guitar but, it's alot of work. Thanks for the help, Rob.
  6. Well...I decided not to use the first binding that I shaped. It was too wavey. The second one came out much better so I glued that one in. I used less heat this time and was more careful when shaping the binding. I was surprised at the amount of glue I had to use. The first application went straight into the wood. I put some on let it soak in then put on some more to get the binding to stick well. It turned out pretty well Kind of messy though. I used green painters tape to hold the binding while drying. It seemed to work fine; although I made sure that there was not alot of tension on the binding by carefuly shaping it first. I also made three pickguards and a cover for the rear control cavity. All in all a good day for me. Progress is slow but I'm getting there. Rob.
  7. Wait for the neck if you can. I have two fender style necks and one genuine fender neck and they are all different lengths from the nut to the heel where it fits against the neck pocket. my .02 cents anyway.
  8. john: I didn't think about roughing up the back side of the binding. That sounds like it will help to keep it on. Thanks for the heads-up on the glue. I tried moulding the binding last night. I ended up using a heat gun; it went pretty well. I made two small mistakes though. Around the jack where the body edge flattens out I got the binding a little too hot and it stretched a little bit making the binding flush with the top. Now there is nothing to scrape in that area. I hope it ends up matching the rest of the binding. I do have another piece of binding so I can do it over if needed. I'll decide today and then glue it. Is it easy to blend in a splice? maybe I could do that.
  9. erikbojerik: Thanks. The hot water thing sounds good. I have some painters' tape (green) that has extra hold but can be removed easily.
  10. I'm new to this so I could use some pointers. I'm putting a single plastic binding around the top of my Tele-type body. The binding is from Stew-Mac. Do you just heat the binding with a heat gun and shape it to the channel? I can see where a little heat won't let the binding conform to the shape and too much heat will deform the binding. Will tape with good adhesion hold the binding well enough; or should I get the big rubber bands? I am going to use Weld-On #16 adhesive. What can I expect with that process? I'm using this first guitar as sort of a "test mule" to try a few different techniques so I'm not expecting it to come out perfect, but I am trying. Thanks, Rob.
  11. Stringkilla, I am using a drill press; but I had the speed set at about 2500 rpm. I'll give the low speed method a try. I wasn't able to work on my project this weekend so I have not tried all these great suggestions. I'll post back when I get some results. Thanks everyone for the tips. Rob.
  12. jay5: The material is standard 3-ply sheet from Stew-Mac. I also have some non-laminated acrylic .120 thk. and some PVC .125 thk. The PVC was pretty easy to work with. I have not tried the non-laminated acrylic material yet. Rob.
  13. mledbetter: yes, I plan on making 3 guitars for now. Based on Tele style construction with some modifications. Two in Alder and one in Swamp Ash. I have two necks that I bought and I want to try and make one myself. These are the first guitars I've ever built. It's taking alot longer to collect the info and parts needed to do it. This web site is one of the best that I've found so far. Lots of great help here and nice people that are willing to share it. Thanks again. Rob
  14. Thanks for the replies. I have good templates that I made;these work fine. I'm having trouble drilling the starter hole for the router bit. will a forstner bit really work on this acrylic? I have one; test is in order. How about "sandwiching" the acrylic with other material before drilling? I'm getting some chatter and snatching when I drill. The bit is a new blu-mol style. Thanks, Rob.
  15. Does anyone have some helpful tips for working with acrylic material? I'm having some trouble drilling it. I need to make a 5/8" hole to route the pickup cut out. Shaping the outside is working OK using a template and table router. Thanks, Rob.
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