eckodanny

it all depends on how much can your bridge's saddles be adjusted...

i guess it would be pretty much a close call with 1/16"

←

Ohh yea!

Hmm, so I really don't have to move my TOM bridge back at all (supposing it can be adjusted at least 1/16").

As for the pickups, what do you guys recomend? Should I use humbuckers like LP's usually have? Or should I use single coils (which are drawn in my plans)?

Many thanks

-Daniel

Thanks a lot guys

I haven't checked yet, but if the difference between my plans and the fretboard is 1/16 of an inch, should I move the bridge back 1/16", or not? Just wondering, can 1/16" make a difference?

If you do that double check how changing that measurement in your plans effects the other measurements such as pickup and control layout.

May not need any altering but it's worth the time to check.

←

Good idea VanKirk. Now I have a question: a fretboard of a long scale length is longer than a fretboard of a shorter scale length, right? If so, the pickups would have to be moved back about 1/8" in order for a fretboard of 24.75"scale length to fit properly.

Now, however, I have encountered a new problem. My guitar plans shows a "soap bar" single coil pickup and a p-90 (I think) single coil pickup aswell. Would it be possible (now that i have to move the neck pickup back 1/8") to put in humbuckers instead (since LP's usually have humbuckers)? If so, how would I know where to place them, and where to route?

I am now a bit confused.

Thanks so far guys,

-Daniel

Thanks Greg,

Just to confirm, I should measure the scale length from a line that divides the neck evenly in half, right?

???

That guitar looks like a messed up tree! Does he have too much time on his hands?

Hello again,

My LP plans call for a 24.5 in. scale length. Would it be wise to buy a 24.75 in. scale length fretboard off Stewmac, and just move the TOM bridge back 1/4 of and inch?

Otherwise I'm going to have to make my own fretboard, because as far as I've seen, 24.5 is not very common.

What do you think?

-Daniel

Wow, very nice job on the inlays!, Your LP is looking really good! Keep it up!

-Daniel

Hey thnx

You guys are making a good point about the Supreme, however. Now I'm considering making a Regular Les Paul, versus the Supreme. After all, you guys are right, the access to the electronics of the Regular is better than the "unbroken" look of the supreme (thanks for your feedback Greg)... Changing a badly soldered electronic would be pain...

I believe GodinSD did something like the LP Supreme with his guitar, didn't he?  Just shove all the electronics in through an oversized rectangular jack hole?

←

This was the original idea of the creators of the Supreme on the link i gave. They decided that they couldnt fit all the electronics through their jack hole.

Thanks for your responses guuys!

I'm thinking about what Robert (the damned) said about making the cavity covers wooden aswell. I think that if I decide to do a supreme style LP, I wouldn't carve the back, just the front.

What about attatching the back with about 4 or 5 screws?

Thanks for your feedback Robert

Wondering ...

How about a finished removable back held on with Velcro or something like the snap-in door trim panel clips on your car? You could finish the body and back separately, then wire it up and slap the back on.

←

Dude are you serious or are you being sarcastic? It sounds useful because of what Robert said, and I understand the clip-type things, but im not so sure velcro would hold on very well. Can you explain a bit more please?

Thanks Greg

Here's a link to the Les Paul Supreme

take a look, it's interesting

-Daniel

Im thinking of making a Les Paul Supreme (whole body and a thin back in order to not have any visible electronic cavities/ covers), should I use all mahoghany?, or the main body maple (this would be the front part) and the thin back cover, mahoghany?

On the other hand...

Why is mahoganny the typical wood for Les Pauls? Can I make the body out of a different wood, and still have the same sound quality?

Thnx Setch,

BTW, did you make your own neck tenon and mortice template?.. If so can you provide me with dimensions?

-Daniel

ok well,

I have bought 50's les paul plans (custom, not junior), and I found something which im not sure will work.

I have seen Setch's site about building a les paul, and Jon Tirone's as well, and I found that both of their les pauls, have neck tennons that extend further into the body of the guitar than the fretboard does (so that the tennon is under the neck pickup). In the plans, however, the tennon is shorter than the fretboard.. Both fretboards have the same number of frets (22) and join the body at the 16th (at least thats what is says on the plans). Both necks and set necks which are supposed to be glued on.

Will the description of the neck on the plans I bought hold together?

If you haven't taken a look at Setch's thread on building his Les Paul. You should, it is very helpful. He does great work.

Peace, Rich

←

Thnx!

thnx Guys

anyone?

Sry about that pr3vail, i hadnt seen the new design.. bout 1 page after what i had read..... Looking Sharp!

Great work Neil!

Thats already an awesome looking guitar!

Btw, what are the dimensions of your headstock?

Looks rlly good,

I like the body, Parker style

Im sorry man But the body looks like a Dam big HAMSTER  

But realy Man Dont give up Just keep at And try a bit less

!!METAL MATT!!

←

I agreee

i think you should work on balancing the design...