MusicMan

Understandable. Kinko's knows more about it than me, so I'll be set. Excellent. With a 4 day weekend after Wednesday, I'll be gathering most of the supplies and knowledge then (Hiscock's book, a woodworking book from my dad, the actual mahogany I'll be using, and some tools for more specific jobs). My dream guitar is the Dean ML AT3000 (archtop), so I was thinking about giving it some contours. Ohhhh, that's the side view Yea, I didn't mean I'd use abalone binding, but that's what came into my head first as an example.

Yea, just let me get a life-size monitor But the nearest Kinko's should be able to print out a 4 foot by 3 foot copy pretty easily. Now to find out how much that will set me back... Hopefully not much. I understand what you mean about making mistakes and learning from others, though. If I seem to run into any problems, there's a damn good chance someone else on here has been in the same situation (which is why I'll ask). A quick question. What do you mean when you say you wouldn't take the binding as a reference? The plans say a 4mm binding (like abalone or whatever on the sides, I assume), but then it also mentions a 44.45mm binding. What's the purpose for the thicker binding? Also, can I use both the Razorback and ML plans to make an ML? Example: The Razorback is shown from the side (the ML isn't) and it says that the headstock has a 12 degree angle back from the neck. Does the same apply to the ML headstock? I'm assume "yes" because they're both approximately the same size and they're both Dean's. Oh, just as a general note, this guitar will only really cost me around $300-400 to make. I'm buying a custom neck off of this website Warmoth and that's where the majority of the money will be spent. I've been offered everything from nuts to bridges to tone knobs and electronics from various people I know. The body wood will also be free due to knowing some people who work at Home Depot that can get lumberyard wood for less

I'll have to hold off on the drink then, haha. And I definitely think of what it cost people when they give me advice. They might have gotten it for free themselves or it might have actually cost them something. Either way, I take all of your advice with an open (and gracious) heart. So far, the most helpful and friendly people have been on the Dean Guitars forum and this website. Ultimate Guitar has some snooty people over there, granted some of the information they have is quite useful. As for the plans you sent me, I'm getting my nearest professional film/photography store to make me a life-size printout so all I have to do is trace the shape on the rough cut wood

You, sir, are amazing. I have two basic "thank you" packages. There's the "Once will suffice" package and then there's the "I'm saying thank you until you get pissed at me" package. Which would you prefer?

What's the time difference between Illinois and the UK, anyway? You're probably sleeping when I'm on here, lol.

Trust me, I've been told so many damn times to get the book it's not even funny. I'm trying as best I can with the book. Oh, and it seems that no local library has the thing, either....... I'm getting a free neck from a friend that damn near fits all of my specifications. Like I said, it's the book that seems to be the trouble so far. Which seems ironic, right? Here I am building a damn guitar and I can't get a book... I e-mailed you already, though...? supplebanana@hotmail.co.uk is the address I sent my e-mail to. Try this instead, I guess. "haltrman93@yahoo.com" Perhaps you'll have better luck. Believe me when I say that you might be the biggest help of all when it comes to me building this thing. Expect many "thank you" e-mails.

I'm quite comfortable with many things regarding the electric guitar. I just wasn't sure how simple routing and drilling one would be (guess it's not hard at all, then). Besides, I know my math. Measure thrice, cut once. Without the book, I didn't know how easy a string-through design really was. Guess it's doable then And yes, a $20 book for me is rather expensive right now... Of course, there are the angles of the drills and all that extremely specific stuff I'll have to dig for. Money's an issue, but I'm getting most of the parts for free (including me taking apart some old guitars from friends and the body wood). I'm trying to get the book, but it's not happening right now...

So this is going to be my first build. I'm doing this in my woodshop class (I'm a senior in high school) and I'll be using a poplar/oak/poplar-layering as a practice "guitar" to the real deal (swamp ash with a flame maple top). The main things I'm worried about are routing the cavities (I'm going with a rear cavity to avoid using a pickguard) and what to do if I want a string-through design (which is the Tune-O-Matic bridge, I believe). How should I go about doing this? I don't even know if I want 2 humbuckers or an H-S-H design, lol. The Dean ML will most likely be my body design, though, as soon as I measure an ML's body... I've been recommended Melvyn Hiscock's book so many times it's not even funny, but I don't have the money on me Any help/opinions would be appreciated.

Oh, and I forgot to ask. Do you think 24 frets is possible on this body as it is? I don't know if you need specifics or if you can eyeball it, but I thought I'd give it a shot. I'll read into if I'll need to change the body at all to support the couple extra frets. http://www.deanguitars.com/img/mlat3000tbz.jpg

So the book is a must, essentially, great. And I just wasn't sure if the neck cavity was wider/thinner regarding more frets so thank you. So basically, I should buy the neck, then build the body around that, then the hardware (I'll probably swap out the middle humbucker for either a stacked humbucker or just get rid of it completely). But first, a drawing is necessary. And thank you, I didn't know what it was called (the TOM bridge).

So for my woodworking class I figured I'd build a guitar. The thing is, I might only have time for the body (Dean ML shape is what I'm going for), so I'll have to buy the neck separately because I'm not up to building a neck on my first go. So, what can I do about a 25.5 scale 24 fret neck? Any specific cuts I'll have to make that are different from 21 or 22 fret necks? I'm planning on putting in 3 humbucker routs with the obvious volume/tone controls with the toggle, but I was thinking of a kill switch as well... Oh, and one last question. I'm making the bridge a string-through design and I haven't found any videos on how different a string-through cut would be versus a tremolo system cut. Thanks for any help relating to this. ^ By the way, I'm the new guy