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Osorio

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Posts posted by Osorio

  1. Res, I think that I already asking you about the epoxy, but I can't remember.

    I keep following your threads and you have using epoxy in all of them. Most of then that I see.

    How about the mechanical resistence of the glued line with epoxy? Into a neck joint for exemple. Why not use titebond? Wich are the benefits of epoxy instead vinylic glues?

    Every epoxy glue that I have used, even "dry", keeps a soft surface, if I press my finger nail it marks. But I don't clamp any glued pieces, guess that makes all difference.

    By the way very very nice top!! Keep follow!

    Osorio my friend you are using the wrong epoxy. System 3 T-88.

    I do not use 5 minute epoxies from a hardware store as most of them are not strong enough.

    So I was turned on to System 3 T-88 by a couple of the guys here and I have to tell you it is very very very hard. You will not press a fingernail into it. I think I have a video somewhere of me slamming a cup of it against the concrete and it bounces really high with a tight resonant crack. I have glued several test boards together with it and beat them against the concrete with results identical to titebond (breaking somewhere other than the joint). One other good thing is that T-88 does not go bad (titebond that has frozen or is old is not good for anything).

    I am a proponent of titebond and I build 90% of a guitar with titebond. However titebond and really oily woods do not produce a bond on joints as strong as T-88.

    I use titebond for my neck laminates, body glue ups, most tops and headplates.

    I am planning on testing West Systems Epoxy more this summer (harder to use because it must be measured precisely).

    Officially I use T-88 for most fretboards and some neck joints (if it is not super tight) and oily tops/headplates.

    Use more clamps. I have posted several articles explaining how you should clamp joints to get proper coverage.

    And of course

    http://www.titebond.com/Download/pdf/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf

    Here are a few other articles to read

    How to Glue-Up Joints: Different Woods Need Different Clamping Pressure - Fine Woodworking

    How to Glue-Up Joints: The right number of clamps - Fine Woodworking

    How to Glue-Up Joints: Tips on gluing - Fine Woodworking

    Of course I knew you did not use an ordinary epoxy glue, I would be roockie to think so (LOL).

    Only reported my little experience with epoxy (5 min) gluing little things, where there was not great resistance mechaninc required only to show that I had no experience with epoxy in fact.

    I thought the cure of the epoxy was shorter than the vinylic, and produce a stronger joint, increasing productivity and quality at the same time, but you have reason to use epoxy only for oilier woods. Nice articles, it's always good to remember things and learn others!

    About the switch problem, I also thought of a blend/balance control with a ordinary pot.

  2. Res, I think that I already asking you about the epoxy, but I can't remember.

    I keep following your threads and you have using epoxy in all of them. Most of then that I see.

    How about the mechanical resistence of the glued line with epoxy? Into a neck joint for exemple. Why not use titebond? Wich are the benefits of epoxy instead vinylic glues?

    Every epoxy glue that I have used, even "dry", keeps a soft surface, if I press my finger nail it marks. But I don't clamp any glued pieces, guess that makes all difference.

    By the way very very nice top!! Keep follow!

  3. Nice thread Avenger!

    I had learn a lot of wood working with my dad when I was a kid.

    My son (3yo) take the same way, when I said that going to the shop he gets crazy to go with me. Some times I take he with me. He takes hammers, drils, saws, wood blocks and try to "make something".

    In fact he put your little fingers in every where and I can't work just cary of him. (LOL)

    But I feel that he likes a lot of tools, and spend time at shop, when he get older certainly will make some wood working, a guitar maybe (I hope).

  4. It's a good tool in general.

    I love mine too but There some things that could be better, the axis lock system to change the bit router, have a plastic cover that breaks faster, and the table lock system that if you are using a big router bit you'll have to adjust the lock pressure manualy. Router Bit vibration makes you lose the depth adjusts.

    Today I din't bougth it, bougth an column router.

    Someting like this:

    5027c179c28b5e8e170f73796db51e94.jpg

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