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Gemleggat

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Posts posted by Gemleggat

  1. Move all the saddles as far forward as possible without risk of the screws falling out, now mark the scale lenghts from the front edge of the nut all the way down the neck and on to the body and draw a line square to that line. Put the bridge on the body with the front edge of the saddles (take off point of the saddles)on that line. This gives you plenty of room to move the saddles back to intonate properly. Maybe some one has a diagram.

    Good Luck

  2. There's a big market for "fancy" guitars these days. 5A maple tops, gold hardware etc. I think you really need to aim for higher up the ladder if you want to make money. How much do you think you could make a standard telecaster for? Maple neck, ash/alder body etc and what do you think you could get for it? Is that worth it? Going higher up and adding fancy inlays etc doesn't make a guitar any better as a guitar (and only really costs time,not money) but really increases prices. Just look at PRS's up charge price list, $250 for gold hardware etc. I can't think of any smaller makers that build simply but good guitars that do well. Unfortunatley low prices equals low quality in many peoples eyes, and that can be difficult to get away from or change people's minds.

  3. You can use a thinner heel if you neck pocket isn't as deep, its all relative as you say. Keep the heel on the the thicker side of those measurements, you can allways trim down. What type of guitar are you building? what type of bridge are you using? Neck angle. The minium for the heel must be more that about 13mm not including your fingerboard.

  4. Isn't that a reason for carbon inlayed in the neck? I think dead spots is just a word coined by some marketing man at some point to dis other makers. I agree that thinner neck are more prone to notes not ringing out but i put this down to lack of rigidity or bad frets/fretslots. Did you get over the trem issue toddler?

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