M_A_T_T

I wish you had a jointer too..........

Ask around at local cabinet/furniture making shops to see if they could joint the edges for you.

One way is to use these, as noted above:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...3072,43071&ap=1

Another way is to use a flat stone and make figure 8's, rolling the gouge across it's edge.

I use these micro abrasive sheets:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...004&cat=1,43072

A tip I got was to gouge out a hollow channel in a piece of soft wood (I used Cedar) then seat a piece of the micro abrasive in the channel and you have a perfectly shaped sharpening block. I then follow that with the paper wrapped around a dowel to hone off the burr on the inside of the gouge. Works great...CLEAN too, as I don't use any lubricants with thre papers.

Not to completely track this topic into a sharp left turn, but does anyone else listen to the kind of music that pertains to the guitar they're building?

I'm listening to alot of classic, solo violin, & Yoyo-Ma while building my violin...it seriously does help.

As for the main question, scroll down a little more than half way at this link and you'll see how I've done it.

http://www.hobbyluthier.8m.com/bass2construction/body2.html

I use an old hand plane for the arm rest, takes only a few minutes to do, then I blend the edges with a small trimming plane and sandpaper.

The tummy cut I've done with the idle drum on a stationary belt sander, in stages as pictured.

Selling your own guitars on ebay sucks.

I'd go for the perform. It has the largest capacity (width/depth/blade/table size) and motor.

The Mahogany is available again.

What would i do to the infeed and outfeed rollers?

chris

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What exactly do you have? I thought you meant you have the Performax Bench top 10" thickness sander. I think I'm wrong.

Do you have this?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=32570&recno=1

You may be able to adjust the infeed/outfeed rollers, but this is a different tool than I thought, so I may not know what I'm talking about, sorry.

There's a small amount of play in the cady which means it leaves a small step at the start and end of every piece of wood that goes through it.

that is called snipe and it has more to do with the support table being too small for the size of the wood you are running through it.

create a larger table area and that will not happen.

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You should be able to adjust the infeed & outfeed rollers to fix that, too.

Been workin' real hard. I just roughed out the f-holes today:

http://s11.invisionfree.com/Stringed_Instr...ndpost&p=595377

I'm off work this week, and I would like to get the body assembled by next weekend. I'm hoping to have this done by mid October for a woodworking competition held at an annual woodworking exhibition.

as for the jointer some people swear by them, I just use the table saw with a jig I made to get my glue joints.

What blade are you using? One of the Diablo style blades with the stabilizing cuts or one of those blades with the brass inserts to stabilize? I'm sure you know that if your blade has any play at all you're going to get a less than flat joint surface out of a table saw, so with that said I'd love to see your jig.

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

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Jointers don't just joint egdes, they are used to prepare a face of the board (square to an egde) to make thicknessing easier. On larger jointers you can also cut rabets.

I haven't noticed the edges being rounded over with my drum-type thickness sander, I have noticed it when I used a wide-belt thickness sander, though.

The cantilever kind are probably tougher to get truly flat, however, thickness sanders are the tool you want if you are thicknessing figured woods.

Also, the drum-type thickness sanders actually aren't necessarily more expensive:

16" thickness planer

16/32" thickness sander

I don't want to buy something that in the long-run the money would have been better spent else-where.

Then in regards to your other thread, definately buy a bandsaw.

Jointers are very useful. I'd take a thickness sander over a thickness planer.

I use a combination of these:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/...ting_Files.html

These:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/..._Nut_Files.html

And these:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/...auged_Saws.html

I have various sizes from 0.010" - 0.120". They are well worth the investment.

Does delta make anything similar to grizzly's 12" bench top band saw?

Here is a 10":

http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5840

Here is a 12":

http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=4651

Like Wes, I used to use a little 9" bandsaw, some super cheapo import thing from Sears, though it ROCKED at cutting even 4" EBONY! Really suprized me, though it had poor blade tracking.

Seems to be a popular topic around here, and just the other day I saw this in Lee Valley's catalogue:

Veritas Pin Router Arm

The Mahogany in on hold.

Here's mine:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...ndpost&p=210857

I think there's under $10,000CDN in it, invested over four years or so. Interestingly, I have more money invested in hand tools than power tools, last time I checked.

I've got the pieces all packaged up. The Karimaruthu set is in two separate boxes for the back & sides. I used an online shipping calculator at Canadapost.ca to get an idea of shipping costs. To calculate for Canadian shipping I need a destination postal code, so I can't calculate that myself. To calculate for USA, it goes by state, so I used Texas as an example because it's probably the farthest from BC, except for maybe Hawaii.

All prices are for U.S.A. Expedited Parcel (10 business days). All prices in Canadian dollars. All packages insured at FULL price:

Karimaruthu - Back $19.31 / Sides $16.95 (back/sides insured accordingly)

Walnut - $29.05

Mahogany - $35.89

These are just ESTIMATES. Any Canadian residents can give me their postal code and I can calculate a shipping estimate for them. Final shipping charges will vary.

The only wood I've ever had issues with was Cocobolo. It stings my nose after awhile, however, I love working with it, particularly on the lathe making pens.

Another wood I once had was Ipe. An extremely dense, stiff wood I thought would make good neck laminations, however, when I read on the net it causes dermatitis, some kind of skin reaction, it went in the trash.

It's interesting to read some of my favorite woods like Mahogany and Pau Ferro could cause reactions.

Yes, it was glued with titebond. The piece is plenty rough in the thickness department, so I don't see it being a problem to sand out as it is thicknessed.

I'm just packaging up the woods now, so this week I'll get quotes for the shipping costs.

EDIT: wood sold.

Double post

Yeah, I have two Veritas, and would like a few more. On my next instrument, probably a violin, I would like to do all the smoothing/truing/thicknessing with hand planes.

Here are some updated pics.

This is where I keep all the big noisy tools:

Router Table & Drillpress

Spindle Sander, Bandsaw & Dust Collector

Edge Beltsander & 4x36 Beltsander

Thickness Sander in Back

This is where I sit down and do some serious work:

Pretty Crowded

Hand Tools, etc

Current Project

Do you use them much? I want to get into using hand tools alot more.