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M_A_T_T

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Posts posted by M_A_T_T

  1. I'd say it's fairly good, somewhat 'beginner'. It has good fluting on the edges, the shape is real clean. Only the linings around the c-bouts on the inside are shaped on the exposed edges, though, but it has cornerblocks.

    I've only taken quick readings with my thickness caliper, but the graduations seem a little uneven. Also, the back arching seems abit 'goat backed', or 'pinched', meaning it has a slow, high rise instead of rising right from the edge.

    Scroll is decent. There seems to be some of the original varnish color in areas of the scroll, and it appears to have been a very red violin, earlier back.

    I'm no expert, though.

  2. According to what is written right on the inside of the back, it was made by a Polish immigrant named Peter Pelech on Jan 31, 1919, in the mining town of Hillcrest, Alberta. I looked at an Alberta genealogy website and found the name Peter Pelech listed, so I'm fairly confident the instrument was made in 1919. I can tell he was Polish because he used the word 'dnia', which means day/date in Polish. I don't see any reason for it to have been faked. Most faked dates are on violins attempting to be 'Strad's' or 'Amatis', etc.

  3. There are a few threads about the one I made, however, it sucked(excuse the pun). It was no match for my thickness sander, so I ended up buying a General International 1, or 1.5HP dust collector. I was impressed with the suction of this thing when I first started it up, compared to my homemade version, which I thought worked pretty well.

  4. Just so you are aware, you can actually delete your own posts/topics on that forum. I did that once when I posted about my cheapie chinese bass I had just got. I basically got reamed for having such a cheap bass, and ended up deleting the topic. :D

    Another thing, how much money is you friend willing to put into this bass? I ask this because you mentioned you thought you needed to replace the tuning machines, which, if you didn't know, cost a few hundred dollars just for a set. Also, strings will cost you easily over $100.

    One more thing, here are some possibly helpful links:

    A webpage that lists upright bass measurements:

    http://www.centrum.is/hansi/mesbass.html

    A link to a webpage of a bass being repaired/restored:

    http://www.smokin-grass.com/as787.html

  5. Those little blocks are called cleats. They are shaved at the edges to make them as small and light as possible. Adding cleats adds weight and stiffness, which will change the sound. Making them as small and light as possible reduces the effect of this.

    The neck joint is funny, it's like it was re-enforced with bolts, but them someone took out the bolts. Using bolts to fix the neck is frowned upon by some repairers/restorers.

    Are you sure it's just going on display, and that the sound will not matter? I would really suggest checking out the Talkbass Forums and ask people experienced in this what to do, or could end up butchering a perfectly fixable instrument (ie - wrong glue, wrong repair methods, etc).

  6. Looks like a fun project! Reminds me of a violin I just started repairing for a guy:

    http://s11.invisionfree.com/Stringed_Instr...hp?showtopic=18

    If you want advice from people experienced in restoring basses, I would visit the Talkbass Forums. There is a guy named KSB - Ken Smith that does alot of restorations, from what I've read.

    Good Luck!

    OOOOOOOOOh I just wanna add one more thing. What type of glue are you using? Most stringed instrument builders/repaires would suggest using hot hide glue, especially for a repair. Not only is it the traditional glue to use, but future repairmen will thank you, as you will probably notice this when you start fixing the previously repaired top cracks and neck joint.

  7. Also he said that Roberto Venn school was a waste of money which saves me some money and time. He said that its just basic woodworking skills and a mediocre business class.

    That was surprizing to read. I've read alot of reference to that school when people ask what the good guitar building schools are.

    I personally think apprenticing with a pro luthier is one of the best ways to learn this craft. The schools can teach you alot of stuff, but what they don't teach you is experience. I worked for a small time guy a few years ago, not apprenticing, just a third set of hands, but even so I learned SOOOOOO much, and it was a very valuable experience. I hope it works out for you in the end! :D

  8. If you interest in a larger machine, or a multi spindle machine let us know we build them all and we can set up an auction for any item you need.

    Sounds like they make them themselves. Nice price. I would wonder why the rollers/bearings on the two main tracks are different on either side, though. That may say something about their build/quality control.....

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