M_A_T_T
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Posts posted by M_A_T_T
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I always thought you were 15, sorry.
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You go into Lee Valley tools, and they have about a million wonderful things that a guy can buy. Many of them applicable to guitar-craft. However, today I only got very little satisfaction:
Do you guys carry Robo-Sander, or something similar?
-Sorry, we don't carry electric tools.
It's just a specialty sanding drum for your drill press
-Never heard of it, but I'll look it up... nope, nothing.
Do you carry Saf-T planers?
-Never heard of it
(describes it)
-Nope, nothing like that.
How about flap discs?
-Whazzits?
Flap discs. They're angle grinder attachments. Overlapping flaps of sanding surface.
-Not these?
Nope. Not a regular flap sander; a flap disc. Nope, not a star sander either.
-(looks it up)... Nope, don't have those, either.
(sighs) Fine, I'll just take this router bit and one of those table-saw jigs you guys sell, for cutting wood at an angle.
-(looks it up) Any idea what it's called?
Yeah, it's a 'something' jig and it's for table saws. I don't remember the exact name.
-(starts searching with no luck)
I KNOW you guys have these, they were in the last catalog.
-(looks, looks, and looks some more)... I haven't found it yet, but I think I know what you're talking about. (looks more and more) Aha! It's called a taper jig.
Yes, that's the one. I'll take one of those and the router bit.
Bah.
I previous time, I had gone looking for a combination of bit and bearing that would accomplish the job of routing a binding channel. No luck there, either.
This is why I don't always have the easiest tools for the job.
Greg
You should have had a look through a their catalogue before going in.
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This used to be me, but I changed my name and here's my newer website.
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The Scary Sharp method uses sandpaper to sharpen blades. Somewhere, I've got an old Fine Woodworking, where 3 woodworkers sharpened blades with 3 different methods. I think they did oilstones, waterstones, and sandpaper. I think everyone came away impressed with the speed and economy of sandpaper.
That's what I do, though I only use two grits, 2500 & 9000. No water either. I have the sheets sitting on a piece of glass on the corner of my workbench whenever I use my handtools so I can quickly sharpen them when necessary, which takes a few minutes only. If you do go with the honing papers, get like five sheets of each, they go quick.
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You people crack me up when you dance around the fire.
Just walk straight thru the hot coals!
JEFF LITCHFIELD SUCKS MEJORE BUTTEWINDE!
JUST to keep everyone in the loop.......
JEFF LITCHFIELD aka Litchfield Custom Gutters, aka ACE Litchfield, is currently making a guitar for the band... THE DONNAS.
He is currently trying to sell his "firewood with food stains" to unsuspecting children. Yes, children... on the Donnas forum. As usual, ive pointed out the faults with his workmanship and design flaws which will most definately render the guitar.... let me say that again.... which will render the "firewood with food stain" an absolutely useless, unplayable, piece of crap.... with food colouring.
As usual..... the members of the donnas forum, think i am being a little extreme, and they are taking "Ace's" side.
That thread was just closed. But I think they got the idea.
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I have that. Mine came with infeed/outfeed tables, and some rolls of abrasive. Don't really have any advise as I haven't used it alot yet, except get a dust collector. Also, I never set the depth gauge on mine, I prefer to use digital calipers.
Try to only take off 1/8 of a turn of the height adjustment knob at a time, or about 1/128", with wide pieces.
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I remember. I was here through all that stuff, as well as the BS on the other forums. My old posting ID was Lex Luthier, but I don't like that name anymore.
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RasaGuitars - Perry (roads56) isn't trying to be rude or anything, it's just that we've seen what can happen when somebody comes on here as *******CustomGuitars when they're not actually a professional builder.
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I use these:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...004&cat=1,43072
The 5micron & 0.5micron. I put the sheets on a piece of glass so they are dead smooth, and can go right from a fresh grind to a *mirror* finish in minutes. I haven't had as much luck with gouges as I have with chisels, as chisels are easier being flat, but these work great.
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If it's tight enough you shouldn't NEED to pack the rod anyway
Actually, I dont think I used any on the last bass I made, and it was fine.
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Hot glue is glue-gun, right? I don't think I'd use it, as it's not as 'rubbery' as silicone, and I'm not sure if it would stick to metal as well as silicone.
Silicone is to prevent the truss rod from rattling, if anyone is wondering.
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Yup, and that experience coupled with the researching I've done since building it has given me the knowledge & courage to take on one straight from rough wood.
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So I finally broke down and bought the StewMac tablesaw fret slotting blade with my last order. Pricy? A little, but I'm not regretting this purchase.
You could say that, but look at the price of these:
http://www.houseoftools.com/subcat.htm?cat=9053
Specialty and good blades are always expensive.
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yeah it's gonna be a 6 stringer. it's actually more like a viola.
Reminds me more of a viol de gamba, but I think those are closer to the size of a 'cello.
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I know you mentioned it but how asymetrical are the upper curves in the waist? How do you plan to fix them?
I just checked with the metal pattern aligned with the drill bits, and the line aren't off at all, really. It was more so the extra bits at the corners weren't bent exactly the same, but I have since trimmed the corners, and they are now fine.
Had they been off, I would have shaped the maple ribs them selves. The ribs are 1mm thick, and it would have been fine to shave them down slighty where they are glued to the corner blocks...but it need not be done.
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Because so many of you guys have been viewing my journal (thanks for the interest) my monthly bandwidth has gone up from 59% to 78% in one day! Because of this I reduced the pics to links, except for the first pic in each post.
I just finished re-grinding & sharpening my gouges, so I should do some more on it today, maybe get the other side roughed out, and post an update.
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What's the brand? A cheap saw will have bad blade tracking and a really small motor. I used a 9" for a while to cut out bodies & necks, it worked okay with a harsh blade, like four or five TPI skip tooth.
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In addition to the three you mentioned, fretboards can be made of any number of other woods. Pau Ferro is the most commonly used of the "other" woods, in my amateur estimation.
Greg
I'm working with a Pau Ferro board now for my latest project. It's been very easy to work with so far. It cuts well, sands easy, and looks purdy.
Pau Ferro is my new 'favorite' fingerboard wood. I used it to make a new fingerboard & tailpiece for my chinese 'cello.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/mma...llo/cello84.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/mma...llo/cello86.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/mma...llo/cello88.jpg
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Actually Lex's link doesn't work anymore, so I don't know how useful this post is to be still pinned.
Sorry. The site was on fullserve, and I don't have it backed up anywhere.
EDIT: I guess I *DO* have it backed up somewhere!
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Thanks, though I haven't been up to much at all. Aside from starting this violin, I was building two 'ukuleles, but I wrecked the sides when it came time to bend them, so they are stashed away on 'hold'.
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Hi there. I used to post here as Lex Luthier, but I can't get into that acount anymore, not to mention I HATE that name now, and have grown to like M_A_T_T that I use on a few other forums.
Another reason I haven't been posting is I have not had much interest in electric guitar/bass building lately, I've actually been seriously interested in the construction of violin family instruments for maybe a year now. I've done lots of reading of different books and checked out sites on the net relating to it, and finally started one from scratch at the beginning of this month.
You can see my progress here, it's kind of an online 'journal'.
Ongoing violin making pictorial.
If you have any questions/comments, post them here, as only I can post on the journal. I know it's not a guitar, but I figure some people may find it interesting.
Thanks...it's nice to be back.
Guitar Building Career?
in Players Corner
Posted
Guitar Building as a Career? Take a business management course, or something similar. Building guitars for a living isn't just sitting at a workbench making guitars all day, you have to know how to properly run a business. Knowing how to building high quality instruments is just half of it.