M_A_T_T

Is your new shop going to be on your property, or are you renting/leasing in an industrial area?

You know, I hate to say it, but do we really need to keep the vote open for another week? No offense intended and I'm sorry if I cause some, but in small town football, they have this thing called a Mercy Rule and I think we've hit it.

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But Brian won't be updating the main website until Dec 1 anyways, so it should just be left open. TGwaH makes a good point, too.

Jeremy doesn't even have a cnc router(or does he?). Where'd you see that it was made on a cnc router?

Yeah, where did that come from?

Great job to everyone! The bass got my vote!

my question is, what is the different between eastern and western flamed maple.

mattia just explained it...

Eastern Maple is harder to work. It's generally used for necks, because of it's hardness & strenght.

Western, I think, figures better than Eastern, and is usually what you're looking at when you see a figured Maple top.

If you want an example of pictures, THIS GUITAR has an Eastern Maple neck & a Western Maple top, both finished exactly the same way.

What exactly are you ordering? If you are ordering tops, they will probably be Western (unless they're birds-eye), if it's a neck blank, hopefully it's Eastern. Depending on where you order your wood from, they may not even know what it is.

I have a friend that gets tops looking just a good as the 'stain black sand back' guys here get, though I believe he just uses a yellow/amber dye stain to highlight the grain.

Beautiful work. A couple questions - What's up with the string windings on the lower strings in this pic:

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c244/geo...ss/DSC06543.jpg

The windings seem to start a 1/2" off the saddles. Is this normal? Does it affect the sound?

And is there an alignment issue with the low B string? It seems to be nudged off to one side in this pic:

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c244/geo...s/HackBass1.jpg

Heh... I wouldn't be so sure about them being the best new planes money can buy - you can spend $1000 or more on a new plane .

I've seen some handmade ones that run about two or three time the LN's.

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Check these out....

http://www.holteyplanes.com/index.htm

His jointer is £7,680 ($13,184 US)

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WOW!!!

Heh... I wouldn't be so sure about them being the best new planes money can buy - you can spend $1000 or more on a new plane .

I've seen some handmade ones that run about two or three time the LN's.

The fan sucking in air would have to be filtered in order to prevent dust from being blown into the booth, which would cut down of the amount of air movement to begin with. I think you would still need a huge fan to accomplish this, and the filters would have to be of a large area like a regular booth. It may work.

Hold on a sec --I said I got lucky --not all alder looks the same.

Not only could it not look the same, but it could be made up of many pieces and not look very attractive.

Do you think you actually need a 22-24" jointer for shooting acoustic tops? Looking at the LN & the Veritas, the LN's don't seem to have the newer adjustments that the Veritas are built with, which I've found to be quite cool. I didn't have much trouble at all joining the halves of my violin's top with my #6, and that was my first time really using a handplane. Another thing, the method I used to join my pieces was to clamp them faces together in a vise and plane both edges. This way, even if the planed edges aren't 90 degrees, when you join the pieces they will fit perfectly level.

I really like StewMacs hot-rod because the dual action allowed me to install it upside-down so the slot for the adjusting nut didn't have to be so deep.

Sorry, I didn't catcht hat part of your post. I guess the LN would be a better choice?

Veritas have actually just added a long jointer:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...t=1,41182,52515

I have it coming in the mail, but they're back logged with orders so I don't know when I will recieve it.

I also have the #6 foreplane and the standard block plane, and I'm getting the low-angle jack plane for christmas. They are awesome planes. I found the #6 alittle large though, at least for violin making, but it will be great if/when I make a cello. Once I get my low-angle planes, I will also get some of the extra blades with the different bevel angles to make the planes more versatile.

The only reason I haven't looked at the LN planes is because the Veritas are cheaper, being made by a company Lee Valley owns, plus I can drive out to the store and get them.

There are a few threads on this subject, you should do a quick search, too.

Can you dis-engage the 'random' action of those, too, so the disc just spins?

Do you have a compressor? What about an air power one?

John - Here's a whole webpage on fitting a bridge:

http://www.musictrader.com/string4m.html

Basically, the feet should line up right between the f-holes. That's pretty good that there aren't any previous marks, the top usually gets all scratched up in the area the bridge sits.

Jammy - I didn't drill the contour/thicknessing because I made a 'graduation punch'. It's a metal version of what Antonio Stradivari used, it also just makes the instrument more 'handmade' in my eye, even though it takes ALOT more time as I can only go 1mm at the most at a time.

I look foreward to your violin making thread!

It strikes me as a tad strange that the cfm ratings that each tool requires are not in it's specifications.

I've only ever seen thickness sanders list them.

It's also a good idea to hook up your tools CLOSE to the DC. The longer and more bent your hoses are the weaker the DC suction is.

You can see in my Finished Workshop pics thread how I have my edgesander and bandsaw in one corner of the room, cornering my DC. One of those fancy 'round-the-room DC hose systems may look more 'workshoppy', but you need a huge DC to efficiently run a system like that.

I just found this website where you can calculate the size of DC you'd need:

http://www.woodworkingtools.com/Editorials/february.html

How's it going? Don't worry, I'm not gonna drive out and bug ya in your new shop, just wondering if you've actually moved yet.

$1600 Aussie dollars.

Wow, that's about $1400 . Not a bad price at all compared to other instructional courses I've seen, not to mention you and your guys seemed to cut through the 'philosophical' BS and get right into building. Good work, too!

I have a 1HP dust collector I hook up to my edgesander, bandsaw and thickness sander. I also have a 3HP shop-vac for general clean-up.

Would rough-carving the neck with a router (round over bit...) be a good idea?

I mean, it wouldn't do a full job, but it would remove lots of wood pretty fast...?

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I used a 45 degree chamfer bit on a bass neck to remove a good protion of the material. Helped alot.

A job building guitars/free learnin'

Do you actually build guitars for a living? As yourself, or do you work for someone?

I like watching a tut by anybody, pro or amature. It's just plain fun to watch. I tend to look at the pro tuts more for their quality of work and to see what I'd like to aspire to, but the amature tuts are great for seeing what people at your own level are doing.

As said earlier, tuts are a great way to keep a record of what you are doing. With my current tut, I actually had to refer back to it a few times to see how I did something because it had been a few months. I actually plan to thin down my current tut when finished and print it off into some form of a booklet for myself as an in-shop reference.