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I bet it sounds crappy.

AHHHH . . . you beat to that comment.

Thanks Cliff, but it's Ebony. I tried the recon onyx and found it too brittle for my likes.

The ebony works easier, gives the same color, and edges up nicer without any of the pains of recon stone. On fretboards it also blends better given it's the same material. Fading into the black looks more real, less reflective.

Thanks again. I enjoy seeing your work!

In the photo it looked very mat finish so I thought it was onxy. I use ebony sometimes myself. I know what you mean about bittle, the recon and be than way. I use 1/8" recon and then definately helps. Nice etch work by the way.

Nice job Craig. I like that design. Excellent use of the onxy.

I didn't know we were allowed to show off our stuff, but I just saw Craig do it, so what the hey . . .

This was the center piece of the Minarik Guitar booth at the 2006 winter NAMM show. His guitar my inlay work The piece came out great and I'd love for you guys to have a look, I'm pretty proud of it. Nothing more than eye candy, but hey that's the business I'm in. In the workshop section of my web-site are pictures of this piece being created for those who are curious.

http://www.sharkinlay.com/photos/bodies/wi...attle/namm3.jpg

ONLY ONE PIC PER POST!!! YOU ALREADY KNOW THIS!!!

I've looked through the supply section and am NOT a huge fan of most of the innlay suppliers listed... I mean come on... inlayusa.com?!?!!? no thanks!

Chris

+1 But I will vouch for Rescue Pearl. Good company, except they close down for about three weeks a year and go on vacation. Sort of sucks when you need something during those three weeks. If people here need smaller amounts of stuff I can get it for you probably for less money than any of these people, BUT I have limited choices. Almost everything I stock is .06" (read thicker material). My recon stone comes from Masecraft so for that just do there, they do a good job and have most anything you could want. But if you needed a half sheet of Paua or something like that, I'm sure I could help you out.

Yeah, it looks like the ebay stuff doesn't it? In which case there is a good chance it isn't even inlay, but glued on like a sticker. The advice above on the sanding is VERY GOOD ADVICE! I would suggest not sanding it at all and clear coating it as soon has possible.

This inlay is done with thin-sheet shell which is about .005" thickness. The clearcoat will REALLY help protect it and stop it from flaking off. I had a client that purchased one of their fretboards and the inlay was flaking off before he could ever get the frets on. He ended up scraping the entire neck.

The clear coating should stop this from happening and keep it good looking for sometime. Since it's a pickguard that should cause any playable issue with the instrument. The makers thin-sheet highly recommend putting it under a finish. A large number of guitar makers use this on their headstock logos.

Yep. In fact clear coat really brings out the color of the shell more.

WHAT?!? I thought it was going to be a original switch off of a 62' or something. It's brand new. I hope that is a mistake.

Both the Eagle and the Dragon seem made for a PRS. There's an obvious connection I can make there. What about the Wolf? Do you just like them or does PRS make a wolfie inspired model?

That's is a very good question and a good observation. PRS owners have money! And, they don't mind spending it. I like money. I have some. I want more I also have a very popular Viper model that is made for a PRS too. People with expensive guitars like to dress them up. And for some reason, Gibson owners just want a plastic cover that says "Gibson". It's just a good market for the types of covers I make. I have cover for PRSi that have just about everything you can think of on them. Check out my web-site and you'll see. I tried selling my covers in the Taylor market (another good add-on market) and they went over like a lead balloon. Oh well . . .

Also, the PRS cover is a very generic size and shape and can be retrofitted to a lot of different guitars from Ibenez to Warmoth.

Abalam and that, as you may know, are not etchable materials because they chip up when you try.

okay no I diddn't know that. I don't know anything about inlay I just know what looks good to me

Yep, and that's the really cool thing about guitars and inlay (and art in general for that matter) is there is always something for everyone. What rocks one persons world, another person will hate. And that's cool. Because if we all liked that same things what a boring place the world would be. Some guys do shell painting . . . and that's cool . . . some guys are etching masters . . . and that's cool . . . and some (like me) are more into graphic arts and have extended that to shell and stone. It's all good.

I also laugh at the guitar discussions about the "Best Body Shape". There is no such thing. Strats are good, BC Rich Warlocks are good, it's all what you are into. I don't own a strat and don't really like that design, but more power to the people that do. My two favorite guitars are a PRS and a custom that looks like a Music Man. And, I'm sure some people hate that. Which, is cool with me.

Actually, I appreciate your comments. Feedback is always a good thing and I thank you for taking the time to respond. You're absolutely right when you say "I just know what looks good to me". Keep rocking and keep posting.

You mean like on this cover?

This is my cover design too. The new cover is just a different kind of art. The wolves are way off in the distance. Plus, there will be 25 of each of these designs made and each one with different materials choices. Many of those materials will be Abalam and that, as you may know, are not etchable materials because they chip up when you try.

So, there is no etching on this piece by choice.

Hi Gang,

Two new truss rod covers designs are going on the eBay block tonight. Thought you might be interested.

Very nice work. Very clean edges. SELL SELL SELL!!!

Thanks. I have finally designed a new Dragon cover that meets this standard. I went through a couple of designs that I liked, but they just didn't live up to this cover. I hope to complete the new Dragon this weekend. I'm also working on a wolf.

Did they sell you the shell too? If not, this template will probably be useless. Cutting the shell to fit into a hole is much harder then cutting the hole to fit the shell. Normally, you cut the shell first and then use the shell to make your pattern.

Thanks!

So what do you think of my new design? It's up on eBay right now item number 7381145263.

Try Rio Grande www.Riogrande.com. They are a jewlery supplier and carry everything you could want. Thickness, size, grade, type, everything and they prices and service is great. Been using them for years. They are also a really good source for saw blades. Highly recommended.

The MOP are what is called "feathers". There are quit thin, a lot of the materials it probably unusuable. I have see this guys stuff on the internet to. It is stamp out, waffer thing shell stickers, it really isn't inlaid at all. That works on a headstock or body, but it you put in on a fretboard you now have a coffee table guitar, can't be played.

The best stuff I have ever used (and I've used them all) is a epoxy product that is made by the superglue corporation. I only says "Superglue" is small letters. The quick setting stuff comes in a red tube, but I perfer the slower setting epoxy (20 minutes) for most jobs. This stuff fill, set ups, and color better than anything I've try. And best yet, it is only about $2 USD a tude. I've used stuff five times the price and it didn't work as well. Over here they sell it at home depot, but I seen it for sale on the internet. This would fill in the bottom of your cavities just fine.

Haha, man, that looks really good.  Now if only I had money to buy one.

←

Look deep into the snakes eyes Hunter. You're getting sleepy . . . sleepy . . .

You have the money Hunter, in fact you want two . . .

You don't need to pay the rent hunter

Sleepy . . . sleepy

Well . . . a thinness sander is the way to do that, HOWEVER be careful thinning out Recon Stone. It seems really hard, but it get brittle and crack easily when it is thin. You're better off to cut it at the 1/8", inlay it into whatever and then file it flat. If you are only inlaying the stone and not mixing it would shells or metals (which I often do) than you can inlay the stone deep say like .1", then you don't have as much stone to file down and you don't have to worry about blow through when you radius your board. I use Recon stone a lot and it works great. Also Masecraft is a good supplier for it too, which you have already discovered.

Just inlay with sheets of metal and a jeweler's saw. That should be easier than what you're trying.

I took some of everyone's advance and modified the design. Thanks everyone.

Put this up on eBay with a "Buy It Now" option. It sold in 26 minutes. I don't think I asked enough for it.

I always used rubber cement. But then, I like to remove my pattern off the material right after it's cut. Make it a lot easier to sand a fit the piece with the pattern removed. I don't know, maybe it's just me. Just my 2 cents for whatever that's worth, which probably isn't much.