whitey

well i bought my body,shaped it down and noticed there was big holes,almost like woodworm,but this wood had been treated and the only thing i can think of doing was filling with wood filler as they were that big

well its a mistake,there are yellow lines,i'm sure they can be easily scraped out with a needle if need be,i've took pics

even if i did scrape out..what can i do to fix this

i'm going to stain it in a dark brown along with the front(a bookmatched burled olive ash veneer)

any way i tried to take pics the best i can,

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y103/mads...rs/DSC00069.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y103/mads...rs/DSC00068.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y103/mads...rs/DSC00067.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y103/mads...rs/DSC00070.jpg

even if i added another thin veneer on the back,it would cover up the back,but leave the belly contour as normal alder(wich has no defects in it)

heres a pic of the back http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y103/mads...rs/DSCF0004.jpg

does any1 have any visual aide's off this?adding a .6mm or so thin veneer to a back?

any idea's appreciated

thanks

yeah,i got a dragon one to,

it doesnt flake off,there is nothing wrong with it,it was only £25

i've had it sitting under my radiator and nothing has rased and its still incredibly flush with the fretboard

its cheap its cheap,wats the risk?

none

plus you can read there feedback

thanks

just the colour i liked and the general grain pattern

thanks

sorry i'm cringing right now

you get these all the time probably lol

well i'm just collecting snipets for a veneer on my nearly finished bass

and i liked the look of this

its a burl?but what species?

thank you

sorry again

1-b

2-a

3-g

4- thats a big fat B! >_<

5-how they are built...by 13 year old girls from taiwan is not an option for squires etc

look in the tutorials section

a holoflash finish is something i've been wanting to do when i've finished university and have more time on my hands

sorry,just a random question...

what happens if you left a guitar hanging from a pub roof?

what would the stain be like?lol

and i guess a more seriouse question

what about getting some tobaco and pasting it/mix with water and using as a ''natural'' stain?

ok,i'd like to throw down a similer problem

on my bass,its a micheal tobias 5 string

and the neck woods are bubinga,wenge,maple,wenge,bubinga

i'm not sure what the finish is,but on my guitar,its a satin finish,and it feels smoother than what my tobias neck started of like

the problem is mt neck is really ''dry'' and its sticks when i slide

any soloutions,i have a dunlop lemon oil conditioner for open grained fingerboards...should i give a quick wipe on the neck with that?

or will this involve a fine sand down and a tung oil finish (because the soft grain had sort of ''shrunk'' and the hard grain stands out)

thank you

look at the pictures,find specs by googling or on gibson website

but the finish is a simple black(or white...i cant remember,but thre both easy colours)

or if its black...maybe add a touch of exoticness to it and add an ebony top?

money isnt really a problem,i went to a local furniture maker,and i bought a piece of maple that was big enough for 2 guitar bodies for only...£16

it was the exact thickness that i needed aswell lol

so have you got a design?

oh,and you can find cheap guitars at car boot sales,or ebay,were you can have a neck and electronics aswell..and a body for another project

wow that guitar is amazing,it looks really nice,

i wonder what an inlayed top would look like with bevels and contours

hey,i did a search and found this..wich isnt helpfull

but i have a few templates i want to print out,

my software is turboCAD 2d v6.5

how would i be able to make it print out in the proper scale?

i'm planing on just sticking them to gethor on a peice of ply or some other template material

thanks

hey,i recently had an idea and made a topic abvout it and got directed here

been reading suggestions...if it wasnt for this forum,i would have cut the body shape first ''then'' hollowed out to add the top...lol,phew

i looked through ron's work on his site..and wow,especially those headstock inlays around the border

is there any of his guitars with the body idea?

i couldnt find anything

thanks

thanks guys,this has really helped

looking at brian d's work i definatly want to try it,

i was hoping not to use a thicker top,even though it makes sense,and the bevel idea also makes sense,its going to be harder

i'll try it out with some of my scraps i have lying about,i'll just head on over to that thread and continue the discussion lol

but if my testers go a sucses,or even fail i'll post some pics up

thanks guys

you may have to strip it down,but it looks like any other black out there so you will be safe

normally for filling small holes,you would drill a hole bigger than the original hole,and then hammer in a dowling

but maybe you will need to cut out a small section,and then glue in a piece of wood

and then sand and redrill

then you will have the finish left

tape off the area's that are already finished(maybe allow a bit of an over hang?i'm not sure,but it will help provide a smooth join)

and spray black,sand etc,bassically your normal body painting tecnique

i've never painted before,but the repair advice may help you

this is were i first learned of filling holes

http://projectguitar.com/tut/output.htm

i've been planning a build for a while,probably going to be a nice 2 humbucker rg with flamed maple top red stain finish

with a bubinga body

now i was thinking of binding,then i thought about a rim

imagine hollowing out,but only down a millimetre,then adding a .60mm veneer,wich will be shaped ant will fit in the recces/chamber

and sand rim flush,there will be a bubinge''binding'' around the veneer

i was wondering if there will be any problems with this?

apart from staining veners that thin will result in curling/warping?

its just an idea i would like to try out

thanks for the input

with my fretboard for my bass,i stuck it on,made sure it was all straight,as it was a pre slotted fretboard

i then used a small hacksaw to take off most of the overhang,with was half an inch either side,i sawed down to the 5th fret,leaving most of it on and sanded the rest flush and its perfect

but a question,is it better to glue ''then'' sand down

or mesure out and cut first?

definatly 1..or 2...no 1...wait...

1...2

doh

yeah...cause it sucks...

cause youve stolen everybody's vision of a metal and radical design and somehow kept it tastefull and ergonomical and asthetically pleasing to the eye...

in other words thats a great build man

its probably just me and my ''bass eyes''

but that would look killer as a bass

good job,its killer

any progress druss?

what was the finish going to be like again?

''headless bass,headless bass!''

lol

i just have to say ur skills are immense

and then you go and find a woman who is perfect...and move to a lake?

i'm jelouse lol

imo a red stained top would look nice

or even a burl,have you seen a recent project with a stained,carved top burl,it was stained purple and was really nice

the bevels in your drawing might produce the same grain pattern as the purple guitars carve?

if you understand what i mean

for a good clean,take everything apart,some brasso or metal polish on a cotten bud,gets into those hard to reach area's

or for a quick little clean up,you can buy cans of air.

lol.its compressed air and it shots all the dust away easily and doesnt harm your guitar

order some acrylic mirror,wich is just a flat sheet.

wrap it in a box and make sure to state that its frgile,then have it shipped with the cheapest option and there you go...broken mirror

or you could mix charcoal with it

theres a few tutorials which use this method

i think that would look better as a bass...but then i start thinking that it will look better headless as theres a bridge/tuner recces cut out...but then i think that thats not very metal...

lol

what do you do with most of these guitars you make?

sell them?