thegarehanman

what you guys are forgetting is the simple geometry of this rout...to slide the pickup in the way you are suggesting,you have to have a large hole on one side below the surface to slip your pickup into and then slide it back...and the way alex did it was to route the cavity while the guitar was unglued...his guitar was a neck through,so he routed into the inside join of the body wing...

I'm certain all of the routing can be done after the top has been attached and without any need for rear cavity covers. I explained in my first post in this thread. First you would use a humbucker pickguard template to route your humbucker hole. Then put an 1 1/4"(1/4" shaft) in your router and drop the top of the cutters to 1/8" below the surface of the guitar top. Just use that to route the sides of the cavity to make room for the ears. If you make all of your routes about an inch(maybe a tad bit more if possible, considering you have a carved top there), you will be able to slide the humbuckers in on an angle. You could either have the springs soldered to the ears(like wes said) or use the rubber hose cut to length.

Do it in an air conditioned room...if you don't mind your house smelling like solvents.

hahaha....just green. Considering the options for colors these days, I would have expected a name like "forest green in the summer's dusk."

Does anyone know where to get fabric like the fabric used in an SKB case? It looks like it's a lot more forgiving on contours because the backing is very thin.

Use a magnet attached to a screwdriver to grab the pickup and hold it while you put the screws through the top and into the ears. As for the springs...well that could be tough. Fortunately, you can buy rubber tubing that's designed for humbucker height adjustment. The tubing doesn't need to be compressed so it wouldn't be difficult to get on. Worst case you cut it the wrong length then put the humbucker in...all you need to do then is cut a new piece of tubing. Stewmac sells specialized tubing or you could just go to a hardware store and buy a foot of 1/8" I.D. rubber hose.

Drak, I really don't foresee any serious problems with going this route. You're more than capable of this.

sorry, didn't seem like it. Don't let the ears show, it looks cheap.

So out of curiosity...why are the strings so low you can't use humbucker mounting rings? No neck angle? You know stewmac sells some mounting rings that are 1/8" thick. They have 'em in plastic and in metal. Or you could just buy some you like and chop off the bottom.

I say do a pickguard route then use a 1 1/4" router bit with the top of the cutters dropped 1/8" below the top of the guitar. That way you don't see the ugly ears on the humbucker. Just slide the humbucker in on an angle to get it in.

Agreed, I rarely ever use my drill press. I have a cordless drill that has 3 bubble levels built into it to make sure you are square with the surface you'r drilling into. I use that for darn near everything.

I think if you sealed the "bound" edge before staining you would still get stain under the finished area. You'd end up just having to take the finish off to scrape the edge clean anyhow. Could be wrong...probably not though.

I was using a processor for a while, but it seemed like in the process of going through the A/D and D/A converters, the warm tube tone got sucked right out of the mix.

...and this is what a finish sander is for. To cut the time to get to the wood to fill the dent.

Frankly, I had trouble loading the whole page after rhoads56's post. I couldn't load the last 20 images on any of the 3 pc's in my house.

"sensitizer"

can anyone explain?

Good thing I never anticipated winning this month. I haven't been here for more than two months though so I'm not entirely familiar with how this works, but if a kit guitar wins, is there also another winner picked for the built from scratch category? I didn't know if it is all fair game or what. This isn't meant as a stab at neocon58(I really like that led under the pickguard by the way); it's merely a curiosity question. I'm just trying to get acclimated.

I think most of the guys on this forum are scared to make a carved top. I eat carved tops for breakfast(so to speak).

Agreed jmrentis, my camera sucks at close ups and the lighting in that room wasn't too good. I'll have to take my pics outside and from farther away(then crop it on the pc afterwards) from now on. Oh well.

I have a Behringer FCB1010 foot board that I never use. It's about a year old and I decided soon after unpacking it that I don't like digital effects units and midi foot controllers. I'd be willing to sell it to you for a very reasonable price. It has 2 expression pedals and 10 banks of 10 presets(100 presets).

Is that comprable to a heel, but on a bird's guitar?

Coming along well. What's that cavity in the lower horn for?

And idch, are you in France, or from France...or is that just a joke? It's been buggin the hell out of me for like a month.

Here's a link:

3 way rotary switch

The company's called jameco electronics. I've ordered from them several times. Expect to wait at least two weaks for it to arrive at your house. The shaft is really long so I ended up chopping off the top as the knobs I'm using have set screws. This switch is really cool because it's QPTT(quadruple pole, triple throw). You turn the switch once and it can change 4 different connections(in simplified terms). As a result you can have some really intricate setups. Best part is it's make before break so it's perfect for a guitar.

Do you really need a 5-way? why not go w/ a 3 way rotary. I'm using one on my current project.

I don't know where he got High G. I think he's trying to me a smart a$$. Obviously it's not going too well for him.

high g...*** mate?

he's building a guitar

My shop's a mess right now because of my project, but here's a "panoramic" picture of the disaster:

(click to enlarge)

If that top is stained "3d style." it's really subtle. Definitely don't use a black stain as your initial stain if you want it to look like that. I would start with a burgundy and then sand back and then finally stain it red. Though I'm not even convinced that that finish is a sand back finish. Then again I was under the impression that all prs did was 3d.