thegarehanman

How many in a month? And you haven't built one? hahaha

sorry, couldn't help it.

I'm a very picky, detailed person and my guitars reflect that. I work on them in my spare time. I'd say the actual building takes between 3 and 6 months for me(less if I'd stay off the G.D. internet).

A person who has become adept at building and who is using templates and quality power tools could put out quite a few each month depending on what kind of features they have. Neck joint will be a determining factor. How many neck laminates and how many pieces of wood go into the body will be a factor. Wether you use binding or not. The list goes on. The fact of the matter is, if you're just putting out tons of copied guitars with little to no features aside from being hand built, you won't get much money for them at all.

My $.02,

russ

If you're going to stain the sg, you have to do gibson's red grainfiller on it. I love that rustic red look...badass.

Let me guess, you have a tongue ring. Wow, that was difficult(note sarcasm).

This project will make you better at covering up your mistakes. Not that you should have any mistakes to cover up in years to come, but when you do, don't you want them to disappear forever? I've become quite adept at it. I don't know if it's a good idea to fess up to it though.

I get my kent armstrong pickups from WD and my seymour duncans from warmoth.

Was it? We couldn't tell , but it looks like you have a lot of potential from that post.

Let me add something here:

It probably wouldn't hurt for you to leave the heel for a while so that you benefit your playing abilities. We can not blame all of our short comings on the way guitars are built. A big part of the tone and playability of a guitar comes from the guitarist himself. Look at classical guitarists, instead of a heel, they have a whole guitar body in their way from about the 12th fret on. It's nearly the same with steel string acoustics, but most of those have cutaways. I'm not trying to insult you or your playing. I'm just saying that you would benefit greatly from becoming comfortable with playing with a heel. It will make you feel more at home with any guitar you play. Hell, not only did Jimmy Hendrix not mind the heel, he didn't mind the higher cutaway from the guitar being backwards.

There are still a lot of other things you can do for this guitar. You could put on higher quality hardware and electronics for start.

Oh yeah, look at that. You can just barely make out about 1/8" extra wood on the light piece on the left side. Man, luthiers these days: measure once, cut twice.

I don't think he did. That's why he took offense, but it doesn't matter.

Let's burry the hatchet; this is a stupid argument. We have both been childish for allowing ourselves to get caught up in it.

"It is finished" -JC(wise words, hehe)

regards,

russ

I agree with the cutout not being centered, but I think the the heel is square. If you look, that picture is taken on an angle...an angle that would make the heel look crooked.

If you do that, you will most likely need to switch to countersunk washers for the neck bolts instead of the standard chrome plate. I agree with Batfink though. Watch how much you take off; you could potentially make the structural integrity of the neck joint...questionable.

Oh, and you can get those washers as Stewmac.com. Remeber to check the lenghts of the bolts you're using before screwing the neck back on. You may have to get shorter screws depending on how much you pair away.

Kent Armstrong makes some nice pickups. They also have humbucker sized P90's.

I rescind my pulling out of the conversation because I won’t sit back and be made a fool.

Interrogatory sentences are denoted by question marks. If there’s no question mark, people are to assume it’s rhetorical. I have no need to brush up on my reading; I think you need to take a trip back to grammar school.

russ

Now would a moderator close this thread for God’s sake?

cik de habt r3trod

I needed a bookmatched top and back for the guitar I'm currently building. One set was $85 and the other was $90. Keep in mind, I'm not talking about 1/4" thick maple. These sets were already bookmatched and each piece is 1 1/16" thick! I was able to get a really sculpted carve with that thickness. Each piece was about 20" long by 8" wide, AAA.

The blue component in black is very true. I mixed black dye with cherry red once and got purple.

Maybe you should consider going with a solid or stained finish so you can do all of the finish yourself. It sounds like you want to do a lot of the workself, so I wouldn't have warmoth assemble anything for you. If you wanted an SRV pre-assembled, I would say just shell out the cash for the Fender model. Fender's is as close as you'd ever come(besides the finish). They redesigned the SRV, after Stevie died, using his number one as a guide for all of the measurements.

I have to be honest though. If this is your first guitar, you'll be so much happier if you build a guitar that's unique and exactly what you wanted instead of what someone else uses.

I just bought a t-bridge, but I bought the active preamp for it too. So I don't even need that pot and output jack. I will sell you the parts that come with the bridge(pot, capacitor, and output jack) for a few bucks plus shipping. Do you live in the US?

I think you and I are going to get along real well jay5...we don't have a good track record so far, do we? haha

That said, let me try to be constructive here:

The blanket question is not going to work here. We have too narrow of a focus. I would recomend looking on fender's site to see the exact specs of an SRV. I was looking on some site(can't remember where) today that had all of the specs. Let me say first off that you can get the neck contour you need from warmoth. They have a diagram of it on their site. Since you're buying your parts prefabbed I would recomend just buy your neck and body from them. For the fretboard radius, don't go with fender's 7.5" radius(or whatever it is), SRV used a 12" radius. That was actually only because he had had his neck refretted so many times it just eventually got sanded down to 12." He liked it better that way though. I don't think warmoth will round over the edges of the fret board as much as Vaughn liked it, but you can easily do that with a cabinet scraper.

I can't really say I know anything more about his guitar than what I've already said, but why don't you do a bit of searching for his exact specs and when you need help actually completing a task, search for the answer first and if nothing turns up, just add to this post. Everyone would be more than happy to walk you through certain steps of the assembly process if you've had no luck with searches.

russ

Do you know what RG's are made from? Something tells me it would be mahogany, but it could be anything I suppose. You could use pretty much anything(wood wise) to fill the holes, within reason: maple, poplar, alder, ash, mahogany, etc... Just remember that some woods need to have their grain filled before any type of finish is applied.

For the finish:

-if there's any porus wood, fill the pores. you can get that from stewmac and maybe a hardware store. I always order it from stewmac so I've never bothered to look anywhere else.

-I don't imagine you have a compressor or paint gun so I would go with aeresol cans if I were you.

-First prime the body. If you have an automotive store like autozone or pep boys around, buy your primer, paint, and clear coat from them. Auto grade paints will stand up to the abuse a guitar gets better than furniture grade stuff.

-Once you prime it, sand down any imperfections with wet sandpaper to about 800-1200 grit.

-Put down your color coat. If there are any imperfections you'll have to sand it down and respray the color coat. You can't clear over a color coat that's been sanded smooth, you'll see the scratches. Make sure to have a few coats of the color on the body.

-Put about 5 coats of clear on the body once the color coat has dried for a few hours. Wait for the last coat your sprayed to tack up before spraying on another coat. Let this dry for about a week.

-Wet sand the clear coat to about 2k-3k grit with wet sandpaper. Then buff your heart out with a coarse buffing compound, then a medium buffing compound, and finally a fine buffing compound. If you want it to really shine, then wax the whole thing with turtle wax when you're done.

There are definitely easier ways to do this. You could use laquer for instance, but using car quality products will give you the best results when it comes to opaque colors or just clear coats in general.

I think you woke up on the wrong side of the bed today little guy; the only one that's up in arms is you. I read all of your other replies to this thread, the only time you've asked any questions was when you said "are you kidding me?" and "insulted?." So I guess you weren't "...asking a simple question."

I think part of the problem is that forums can not accomodate the intonation of a person's voice so no one knows if something is said in an accusing manner.

Sometims It pays to stop while you're ahead. For instance,...I'm stopping...now.

He said it's your opinion. He wasn't being rash. His workmanship was questioned, and that's insulting. I have had very nice results with my miter saw. I understand how people could think a miter saw could be inacurate, but the high end ones are in a whole different class than the harbor freight(etc...) saws. I use mine to do scarf joints; the wood comes out so nice it barely needs to be sanded w/ 220 grit sandpaper before gluing.

I really like the dust collectors that catch airborn dust. I know you need something to catch all of the dust that's falling to the floor, but what about the stuff that floats in the air for a while that's capable of doing so much damage to your health? First line of defens is a mask, of course, but those air cleaners you mount on the ceiling are so nice. Only problem is whenever I have the money to buy one, I spend it on a tool that makes dust instead.

Assuming their glue joints are "invisible," it should be fine. Your sound will be a combonation of the tones of those woods, but it will mostly be influenced by what your neck/fretboard is made out of, what type of wood the bridge is mounted to, and your electronics.

We had agreed o 24.75" true scale. Fryovanni knows I don't want gibson's compensated scale. If I had wanted that I could have gotten it from lmii.

...right fryovanni?

it doesn't get her until friday so I have quite a while until I can check it.

I paid $400 USD for a carvin tubemaster head on ebay. I'm using a 1975 randal half cab with electrovoice speakers. Now the distortion channel is crap; it's just freaking abismal. But the clean channel....wow. Everyone tells me it's one of the cleanest, richest clean channels they've ever heard. Of course you need distortion, so I sunk another $140 USD into a "Dr. Jeckyl & Mr. Hyde" Liquid Sound distortion/overdrive pedal. The tubemaster comes in combos and they always have a few tubemaster models on ebay. It's switchable from 100w to 50w so you can get full saturation at lower volumes. It's got presence controls for each channel. Well, that's enough, I could go on for quite a while. I firmly believe that having a great sound relies on having an amp and guitar that are capable of crystal clarity, and this does it for me.