thegarehanman

You realize that guitar has a carved top right? You can see the reflection of the carve in both pictures. If you want to build a true "archtop," which is hollow, has a carved, front, back, and inside, and has bent sides, then that's a whole different animal.

BTW, we're only supposed to have 1 image per post. Try to stick to that rule or some people will become quite perturbed(I couldn't care less, honestly). If you are just set on being a rebel though, at least use thumbnails. No one seems to mind those.

I guess I just assumed he had done that already...seems like an obvious one doesn't it? He has 3 posts; so he probably doesn't know which selection is for which humbucker.

Listen robbie g, when the 3 way switch is up, you've selected only the neck humbucker, when it's in the middle, both are selected, and when the switch is down, you've selected the bridge only.

Ibanez makes RG's with scratch plates already. It looks like a pointy strat with the scratch plate though. Do a google image search for "ibanez rg" and you'll see what I mean.

And for the record...knowing about the scratch plate doesn't mean I like ibanezes. Then again I can't say I've ever played one.

Edit: oops, didn't realize you already knew some had scratchplates. Anyhow, no, I don't think it would look silly and I don't think the tone would change for any other reason other than you changing the pickups.

doh! ...common sense strikes again!!!

It looks like an angry bat's face:

and that's not neccessarily a bad thing.

Everyone always wants an easy solution. No one ever wants to work. People these days...newbs these day. GEEZ!!!

Now that I've vented, do you have a multimeter? I certainly hope so. Check the resistance of each humbucker, it should be around 7k to 8k ohms for Gibsons and most other humbuckers. Hotter humbuckers will range from 12k to 14k ohms. If one of them has a reading much different from those or has no reading at all, it's bad. However, do not throw out the idea that you may have a bad connection. Also, you could very well have a bad switch. If your test on the humbucker yields no conclusive results, check your switch.

The maple neck on a lp is nothing new. Zack Wylde's signature "bull's eye" LP has a maple neck. Don't know what his scale lenght is or if he has a maple top on that thing. Good luck with your project though.

A compensated 24.75 scale is actually a 24.625 scale. The true 24.75 scale also needs compensation. Technically, you could call a true 24.75 scale a 24.811 compensated scale. Either way, the post on the low E side has to move back 1/8".

It's really not confusing at all. The thing that's confusing people is some people mean compensated but they don't say it.

Grant steering wheel

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That's a bit out of place, don't you think? Wish I could help you man. Why not get a stewmac paddle board headstock w/o the tuner holes?

That's your $.02, now here's mine:

You think this thread is a headache. It wouldn't have become a headache had you not started it. People(including yourself) complain of how we don't talk about guitars enough; I agree, we don't. However, you have cluttered the board with more useless jabber by posting this thread at all.

This thread is just silly, someone should close it.

Ok, now make me some stabilized flamed maple tuner knobs to fit the schallers for my jazz box.

Not neccessary. Fryovanni already hooked me up with one.

I think my previous idea may be illegal. So you'll have to be quick about stealing a thick branch or something next time you visit sequoia national park.

I think you should try some petrified sequoia. That should make for some nice sustain.

If you use a shorter tremelo block, I think you'll have to use more springs. It's still early in the morning so I'm not firing on all pistons, but I'm pretty sure that shorter block would decrease the leverage force the springs have.

Fender made a double cut tele once(or maybe they still do). If only I could remember the name of that thing. Looked good too. I like the yellow on this guitar, it's got a nice blusey/vintage vibe to it. I think for your next project you should consider making that neck/body joint a little more streamlined. Maybe consider a bolt on set up the way a Les Paul DC's set neck is(continues under the PUP's). I think it might look cool with a jaguar bridge too. It's your guitar though, so you call the shots as you see fit.

I think if I made a super thin guitar, it would remind me too much of the templates I use to build other guitars. Everytime I picked it up I would have to do a double take to make sure it's not mdf.

On another note, why not make a neck thru with a convex carved top and a matching concave carved back. That would give you the belly carve and a really interesting profile. Having the carved top would allow you to have thin sides and plenty of thickness for a straight through neck. I say get the knobs that you mount flush and then push to have them pop out like on some of those (ibanez i think) effects pedals. Mount them along the outside parimeter of the body by the upper horn.

You'll have to forgive me. I wasn't taking it as an outright attack guys(regardless of what I may have said). I'm no loose canon. I just got figuratively walked on a lot when I was younger so I can get rather defensive sometimes. I do a good job of standing my ground when I need to though. I guess it doesn't help too much that I had to attend the funerals of 3 close friends this week.

Let's get back to building guitars. Shall we?

Ok, this thread has just become an attack on my intelligence. First, I never said I was using a 24.75 compensated scale. Some of you where too busy pontificating to notice I never even mentioned Gibson. I said I was using a 24.75 scale; that's what I decided on in the plans, that is what I'm using. LMII does not have a 24.75" scale fretboard and when I called they were unwilling to make one for me. I do not have a plethora of fingerboards at my disposal because I'm only a hobbyist. I buy what I need, when I need it. College students have finite budgets. Many thanks to Fryovanni for all of his help though.

Essentially what I was saying is it isn't going to warp. Especailly from stewmac. Fingerboards are slotted so they naturally bend. And a straight finger board in a tight package isn't going to twist. You're about as legalistic as you are "krazy" I guess.

it'll be as straight as your neck is after you glue it on. Think of a preslotted fretboard like kerfing(slotted), if it bends a little, it's not much of a pain to make it right. I wouldn't worry about warping. Stewmac packs their stuff well and ships it fast.

stewmac does, but it only comes in one set of radiuses and only in a 25.5" scale.

...and it's getting redundant too!

I just looked at the fat boy. Looks like Carvin's a step ahead of me with the neck through semi hollow. I'll bet theirs doesn't look as good though.

Holy Crap,

this thread is getting ridiculously asinine and redundant!!!!!!!!