thegarehanman

That looks a hell of a lot like an SG.

The thumbnail idea is catching on!

I don't know how I feel about them, but I know Martha Stewart loves them. Martha Stewart has been to prison; that means she's hardcore. So that must mean crackle finishes are hardcore too.

Actually, I like them, they give the guitar a wethered yet refined appearance...I think.

If you go that route, defnitely do the clear cote before the tung oil. You would be very unhappy to see what happens to most clears when they're sprayed over oil finishes, unless you like the crackle paint look.

kit schmit

my $.02

A week is ample time for a 2-pack to dry. I've done whole cars before. That stuff is rock solid, bye then if you mix it right, even if you add a retarder(which I always do). I love 2-packs. I didn't realize nitro had so many downsides. I guess that $15 can of it I bought from stewmac will just have to sit around till I have to refinish an end table or something, haha.

This thread is annoying. Someone should close it.

Ok, well here's another question. Anytime I ever used an automotive clear coat, it was on top of an automotive basecoat. The sheet I get with my 2 pack clear coats say it's designed to be sprayed onto acrilic base coats. Do you think it would tolerate being sprayed onto stewmac's vinyl sealer? I know some types of finishes like to crinkle up depending on what they've been sprayed onto. Ordinarilly auto clears are pretty durable though.

it's a standard 50's lp neck shape, i don't know the measurements off the top of my head.

The mahogany set neck I made for my lp type guitar(which is in the GOM compotition this month)is rock solid. I live near new orleans. The temperature variations are insane in the spring. One day you're wearing a coat, the next day you're fighting the urge to rip all of your clothes off because it's so damn hot. The weather has never had a noticable effect on this neck's tuning ability, even when it's been in the trunk all day.

I think no one is answering this because the answer to the question is something you have to figure out on your own. If you're using a locking nut, then your nut spacing is predetermined. That takes care of that. Now, I assume you've picked out a bridge, so you know your bridge spacing. Draw your nut and your bridge out on a piece of paper with 24.75" between them, now connect the E strings from the nut to the bridge. Now add about 1/8" on the outside of each E string, depending on how much space you think you need on the edge. Now mark where you want your fretboard to end. There you have it. The dimensions for your fretboard. And this has been my community service for the day.

c'mon man, 6AA's in series produces 9 volts(each one produces 1.5volts...link them in series and you add the voltages). that's high school stuff.

looks like an angry sea horse

Ok, I have never in my life used instrument laquer. I'm a very big proponent of the automotive(2-pack) clear coat. However, I've decided to mix things up a bit and give the instrument laquer a go. I bought stewmac's behlen nitro laquer. I have always read on the forum that you guys allow about a month before wet sanding and buffing. However, if you read the instructions that Stewmac has for their laquer, they say to only wait 4 days before wet sanding and buffing? Could this be true? Or is stewmac wanting you to rush it? I wouldn't want to wet sand the finish while it's still green. I know that the rule of thumb is if it still smells, don't sand it. However, everyone knows that finishes can still be green with no odor. Realize I haven't laid down the finish yet. I'm not even close to that stage. I'm just wondering if this 4 day thing is possible? If it is I'll be jumping for joy.

Oh, and before you carve the back. Go to warmoth and look at all of the different profiles you can give your neck. See which ones you think you'd like. Then go to guitar center and see which neck profile you like best. Then you can incorporate that into your design. I use a SRV kind of offset center neck. It gives you the ability to either have a fat neck or a skinny neck depending on wether you're playing lead or rhythm.

I almost had an anurism reading that first post. Proofread, man, for heaven's sake.

1: drill about 1/8." Use a bit about 1/32" bigger than the dot. You don't want to drill so deep that you hit the truss rod, but you have to go deep enough so that what's left of the dot won't resurface when you sand the board.

2:You can use any sawdust you want. Buuuut if you want it to even resemble the same color as the board, you'd better use dust from the same type of wood the fretboard is made of.

3: Use epoxy, not super glue

4: You realize if you want to put a new inlay in, you're going to have to remove all of the frets and then refret the whole board, right? Another thing...you are going to have a very difficult time routing for inlays on a radiused board. It can be done, but it's no cake walk.

Depending on how much experience you have with guitars(and I mean working on them), this may be over your head. But hey, it's your guitar. That's about all the advice I have.

...or it could just be easy for us by using the image hosts we suggested that give you clickable thumbnails. Why worry yourself if it can be so simple?

It's probably plywood. I refinished an 80's squire for a friend a few years ago and his was plywood too. So you could use anything you want. That is...assuming you're painting it an opaque color. I'd go for maple, ash, alder or something stratocasteresque.

This is when I bid adeu to the conversation to avoid showing how little i know about computers.

network status

My computer says my internet speed is 11Mbps. I'm guessing that's Mega-bits per second? I don't know. It's 2WIRE591 wireless connection. I'm not too well versed in the technical aspects of the internet. I have a pretty good understanding of HTML though, I suppose. Regardless, I have no problem with all the pictures on the site. They don't bogg my system down at all.

congratulations on breaking the PG mold. it seems like nobody builds acoustics here...often. i doubt it's from a lack of tallent. at least for me, it's a lack of interest.

i've taken courses in astrophysics, i know

That's so frustrating. Why do they say 4th and 5th dimension? It's just more axises that the mill cuts on. It's almost impossible to even fathom the 4th dimension(assuming it even exists). It's like a person in 2d trying to imagine what it'd be like to live in 3d.

wow, that was a crappy test