thegarehanman

This may not work with the black leather dye (although there's no reason you can't use black analyne dye), but the best way to go about dying a top or body and leaving the binding untouched is by taping off everything except the binding and coating the binding in a layer or two of either shellac or vinyl sealer (both are easily available). Then remove the tape and stain away. You might consider switching over to alcohol based dyed though, they're a little easier to work with IMHO.

peace,

russ

Typically you route your neck pocket and install/route for the bridge afterwards, so the angle would be taken into account automatically.

FWIW, the end of an angled neck sits significantly lower into the body than a non-angled neck with the same bridge. Simple geometry/trig, guys.

+1 on grey/trans black to black

Good to see you're using the vacuum bag a lot. It's a very usefull tool and I anticipate you'll be finding new uses for it as you continue building, especially if you branch into acoustics. However, you may consider switching over to an automatic, cycling pump to reduce your work load. Check out JoeWoodworker.com and look at the different types of pumps.

peace,

russ

A router thicknessing jig will thin it out plenty fast.

I thought there was a slight difference in a true fender 24" scale fretboard and a 25.5 with the first fret cut off? Is this not true?

Yes, apparently it's .07."

So when you think "red," you think a matt belemy model Manson guitar?

If you can't get it perfect with a file, use a candle to wax all surfaces of the nut blank, fill the nut slot with epoxy that's been tinted to match your fretboard wood, then press the waxed nut blank into the nut slot and wipe away any excess epoxy. Make sure you do a test run with the epoxy to make sure the variety you're using dries very hard, because if it doesn't, you don't want to even think about using it. Once the epoxy has set, you can use a pliers to gently persuade the nut out of the slot. After you remove the nut, sand the epoxy down so it's level with the fretboard.

Another option is using a radial arm saw, sliding miter saw, or table saw (and jig). Carbide tipped circular saw blades have a 1/8" kerf.

peace,

russ

Wizard necks really aren't that thin, at least they're not at the thresh hold of thin. I would use carbon fiber rods and a two way truss rod. Either keep your fretboard thin (probably 3/16" max) or route a slot in the bottom of a thicker fretboard to allow the trussrod to sit inside the fretboard a bit. When I don't need the added strength that carbon fiber provides, I still use it in order to make the neck more stable and consistent despite climate changes and wood movement. I always use two 1/8"x3/8" rods. On necks that need extra strength, I put the cf rods in so that the 1/8" surface is parrallel to the surface of the fretboard. On necks that just need a bit more stability, I install the cf rods in so that the 3/8" surface is parrallel to the surface of the fretboard. The second situation uses the same amount of cf in any given neck, but the moment of inertia in the direction of the force applied by the strings is less, so it doesn't add quite as much stiffness to the neck as installing the cf rods the other way would.

Also, if a neck is too thin to install the cf rods in the first way I described, the second way is a great alternative. I plan to do this on two necks [with wizard I dimensions] that I'll be making for a customer's guitar.

peace,

russ

It's just a dpdt switch attached to a potentiometer. You can do whatever you want with it that you could do with any other dpdt (ie on/on or on/off) switch. It's nothing new, unfortunately. Trust me, I'll be the first to commend you when you come up with some new and innovative idea.

peace,

russ

I can't give you advice because I've not been in this situation. However, I find that it's best to make detailed drawings of mounting points and routes, etc, only AFTER you have all of the parts in your hands. I'll be installing an original floyd on a doubleneck shortly and plan to use a lions claw. I'm sure it can be done, but you need to get the trem first and measure everything with a caliper.

peace,

russ

You realize you can buy these switches from stewmac or any of the tons of electronics suppliers online, right?

I've created a monster! David, why not just convince Rich to start selling and then con him into sharing a shop?

I think you're wasting your time. You can get a 2 piece limba blank to look like a one piece if you choose the area you'll make your joint with carefully. If it's about some sort of search for the ultimate "tone," then I think you're wasting your time.

Korina is often (and more commonly) known as "black (or white) limba." Check gilmerwood.com , they always have a bunch in pretty sizeable dimensions.

peace,

russ

I say black, with w/b/w laminates under it. It would somewhat blend in, but the two white accent lines around the perimiter of the pickguard would set it off quite nicely, yet still keep the detail subtle.

peace,

russ

Damnit, david. Why couldn't you just wait 2 more years for me to finish getting my degree?! I'd come and join you in a heartbeat if it weren't for that.

Good luck finding someone who's both compitent and enthusiastic.

peace,

russ

I don't know why everyone hasn't switched to using several clickable thumbnails. It takes up the same bandwidth as one big picture, shows previews of several pictures, and is a piece of cake with photobucket.

Southpa, something tells me we need to buy you some shell and a jeweler's saw.

what's the deal? the rule is one pic per post. That's exactly what he did. Darnet, maiden, you've gone and scared the kid off. Now I can't see the pictures! I am mildly frustrated!

I wasn't questioning the quality of your work, just the wording of the site. For that matter, I wasn't trying to be overly critical either, just giving you some feedback. I know I like to get as much feedback regarding my site as possible. On that note, one of these days I'll change my gallery, but first I've got to figure out how I want to lay it out.

peace,

russ

a large number of us just build them from scratch. Personalization doesn't get much more all-inclusive than that.

I don't know if it's the design or what, but the link bar at the top of the page is very distorted looking on my pc. Maybe it's the font, I can't tell. FWIW, I'm using firefox and windows xp.

On a more positive note, I like this design more than the last. I really didn't like how the last site had you alluding to "Sorbera Guitars" being a big, well established company. Now I'm not saying you should say "hey, me and my brother work out of a shed," but there's something to be said for just being up front that you're a small operation...more boutiqueish IMHO. Buuut, to each his own.

And on yet another note, I haven't seen much come out of your shop lately? How am I supposed to duel you for GOTM when there are no new Sorberas?!

I don't know how you didn't catch this, but my first reply was meant as a joke. I think this is an awful idea. I tried to hint at that, but...well, nevermind.