b5111987

Rub the area on the pot to be soldered with sandpaper.  "Tin" the ends of your wires beforehand.  ie. heat the end of the wire and apply solder so it whickers in throughout the strands.  I like to use lots of solder for pots.  Hold the "tinned" wire firmly on the pot's surface with the soldering iron in one hand and needle nosed pliers, off to the side, in the other hand until the solder melts and spreads out a bit.  Remove the soldering iron but keep applying pressure with the pliers until the solder sets.

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thanks i thought you had to do something like that but wasnt sure

i have just started wireing up my guitar and am having a hard time grounding the pots i cannot get the solder to stick to the back of the pots

any suggestions?

You don't have to, but if you wan't a glass like finish thats shinier than it is now, I say sand it and buff it.

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thanks

Action is what you get after the gig.

Tension is what you get from your wife after the Action.

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my finish hasnt got orange peel so do i need to wet and dry sand it

or do i just buff it up or do i even do that

what i thought that they would show through as it is clear lacquer dude

I'll back out, I am not trying to give you a hard time and I don't want to interrupt your thread, but I don't even know what this statement is supposed to mean. I cannot understand even your basic idea.

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cause i wet and dry sanded it down. the lacquer had all scratches all over it and it was all white now i thought that if i put a clear coat over it the scratch's and white would show through

iv just spray a coat of lacquer on and i can say thankyou it is lookin so gd at the monet.

I am not one to point and laugh at anyone, and am not here, but damn sam, you don't want to go thru life this uneducated do you?

I'm concerned for you.

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what i thought that they would show through as it is clear lacquer dude

iv just wet and dry sanded it and it wet all white and i wanted to put a final coat of lacquer on so i thought i may have to buff it up but it turns out you dont hav to so iv put a coat of lacquer on and it looks really good

no bumps scratches or anything

pictures up at

www.jcguitars.tk

click on guitar 1 and then pictures

It will disappear with the final coat of laquer. Those scuffs will give the final coat something to "bite on to".

BTW, rushing is never something you should do. Ever.

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iv just spray a coat of lacquer on and i can say thankyou it is lookin so gd at the monet. before it had bumps and dips in the finish now its just flat and perfect

pictures at

www.jcguitars.tk

click on guitars 1 and the pictures

It will disappear with the final coat of laquer. Those scuffs will give the final coat something to "bite on to".

BTW, rushing is never something you should do. Ever.

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are you sure cause its really white

iv just wet and dry sanded all the bumps out of the lacquer finish and a wanting to give it on fina coat of lacquer but the guiitar at the moment it a white/grey coluor caused by the wet and dry so do need to buff it up before i give it one last coat or when i clear coat over it will it dissapear

i am wanting to do this now so please reply quick if you know

thanks for any help

anyone got any videos or pics of them working

when did we start listening to what a bass player had to say?

(duckin' and runnin' boss. duckin' and runnin')

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They were taking a shot at Godin SD another memeber on the board.  He entered his guitar 2 months in a row.

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Ahem. idch took the shot. I just said it was cold.

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ok whatever

now this is just my humble suggestion but before i went to the trouble of planning the fretboard off i'd remove the frets and then apply heat with a household iron over a damp rag or even a paint stripping gun if you have one and see if you can get the glue holding it onto the neck to loosen up enough to slide a thin putty knife under it and slowly work the fretboard off.  you already know that the surface that it is glued to is flat so if you can get it off..and i have several times before..a light sanding with a sanding block will remove any remaining glue and you're good to go with your new fretboard.

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no he said it was made from one piece of maple

didnt he?

Two things: first of all, .047 is 6% off of .05, not less than 1% .

A .05uF capacitor is actually sort of a .047uF capacitor anyway. Capacitors and resistors come in funny numbers that aren't even in the least that fill some sort of statistical distribution curve. The tolerance for said capacitors is centered on those numbers - numbers like .047uF. In a tight-tolerance capacitor (5-10%), the capacitor is marked as .047uF because the tolerances are more important. Most capacitors, however, have a +-20% (or worse) tolerance, in which case it doesn't really matter, and they're just marked at a value rounded to .05 because the extra significant figures would have no meaning at such low tolerances.

That .05uF capacitor could have a value anywhere between .04uF and .06uF and still be within tolerances - which easily includes .047uF. There are situations where you need more accuracy than that, but a guitar tone setup isn't one of them.

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hey i didnt say that it was a guy on the other post

on guitar 2 www.jcguitars.tk im adding side LED's in the fret markers and up the front the harder you play the further up the fretbord the markers will light

they are goin to be blue LED's

Last night at rehearsal I had a conversation with the bass player that went something like this:

Him: "This bass has really high action. The strings are almost touching the frets."

Me: "You mean low action."

Him: "No, that's tension. Action is how the string vibrates."

Me: "Wrong."

Him: "Talk to people who build guitars."

Me: "I do every day."

So to set the record straight, A. is 'action' the height of the strings from the fretboard or the vibration pattern of a plucked string? B. Am I losing my mind? C.  Does B. have anything to do with A.?

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action meen the hight of the strings if it has a high action the strings are way off the fretbord but if it has a low action there nearly touching the fretbord

No difference whatsoever - they'll just take up more room. If you can fit 'em in there, you've got no other issues. 

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kk thanks

I have this late 70's Strat maple neck. It's one piece(except for that dark stripe on the back). I messed up the fretboard trying to re-radius it. I just wonder if I could shave it down and put a new fretboard on it. How hard would this be or should I leave it to a pro? Or maybe it isn't even possible.

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it it may bee hard depending on wat tools you use

what u need to do is sand down the neck after removing frets (if any are in) and make sure it completly streigh all allong the boared vertically and horizontally

then you can glue another fretboard on

Look at it as a math exam question:

Calculate the resistance and wattage of the series resistor required to drive an LED with a forward voltage of 3.5 volts at 12mA from a 9 volt supply - show your work

9-3.5=5.5 (supply voltage minus LED forward voltage equals resistor voltage)

5.5/.012=458.33... (voltage divided by required amperage equals resistance)

The nearest larger standard 5% value is 470 ohms - assume 470 ohms for power calculation.

(5.5^2)/470=.06436.... ( voltage squared divided by resistance =power)

Lowest easily sourced power rating is 1/8 watt (over double the calculated power), so specify a 470 ohm 5% 1/8 watt resistor.

Sounds like ansil's pretty good at this, or at least he owns a pocket calculator. 

BTW, feylya makes a good point - 6 AAs will last about 5 - 10 times as long as a 9 volt.

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i accidently bought 1/4 watt resistors how much will this affect the will they be brighter or dimmer

I need a .05 MFD Capacitor for this awkward guitar set up (Wiring diagram included at the bottom). Somebody has shown me a .047 capacitor but I don't know what potential risks there are for that.

Thank You

Wiring Diagram

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as the guy said after me in the last post there is less that 1% diffrence so it will be fine

Do a search, so so so many post on this subject.

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on LED's yes i know all about them but not on this but not on the bit im on about

Im installing LED's in my fretboard and iu saw this cool thing on sims website http://www.simscustom.com/html/simsleds.htm on the right the video shows a guy playing base with frat lights in and as he does them move and it looks cool and i really wanna do this to mine but anyone know how its done

Looking good.  Jackson King V style body with a Dean headstock.

"Generic" is an ugly term.  I think it looks grand, but to me, the body looks a bit small in comparison to the neck and headstock.  The danger there is that the instrument will be neck heavy, which is a real pain in the behind!.  Look at a few other Vs and determine a good balence for the length of the fins.

Also, is it Neck Thru/Set neck or bolt on?

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yeh i agree i think the body looks a little to small

unless you were goin for that kind of style/look