Guitarfrenzy

Where's the StewMac to Dunlop number conversions..? lol

Yeah me and Timberking figured that we could save alot of money by just buying preslotted fretboards... that Miter box cost like 70 bucks.. yikes... StewMac is too high.. they kinda price gouge... but I bet they arent' hurting for money...

K.. thanks Brian

I've tried to get in touch with them by phone for over a month now.. lol.. Do they ever answer the phone or has the number changed? Anyone else ever got through to them?

Don't feel all,,,, we'll.. ummm blue.. third eye.. I like red, green, purple, orange, and yellow also.. but I can't think of a better color than blue for quilted maple tops.. ooooooooooOOOOOOO.. they look cool... But light aqua blue looks equally as good... lol

So far I read the tutorials that show how to make radius blocks, Brians Fret Bender, Brians Fret Beveling tool, and I made nut slotting tools out of feeler guages with roughed up edges that works really well. I'm trying to think of all the other things I'll have to buy or make in order to do a complete neck from scratch. I already have access to a router, bandsaw, etc. But looks like I'm still gonna have alot of money to fork over.. These are some things I know I'll have to buy. Arbor press and cauls, neck support caul, adjustable fret slotting file, assortment of fret files, fret end dressing files, and clamps. I'm about to order all these tools, if anyone knows of a way to build some of these tools or can think of any other tool I might need in order to build a neck, please let me know.. thanks

Matt V

Just wondered what fret size people like to use and why... I really like the medium/medium sized frets myself.. aka stewmac #0148 fretwire... What are you guys using mostly and why?

Yeah if it makes playing harder, i wouldn't care if the regular fretwire wore out faster.. my motto is playability first.. everything else just icing on the cake... You can have the best looking guitar in the world but if it is hard to play then it doesn't matter much.

lmao.. nope sound like you need to buy Oak for the type of stuff she'll probably want you to build.. lol.. some new cabinets?

Guess for now I'll stick with my 6" steel ruler. They look like they would be a good thing to have though.

I like the Respirator Mask you have... Looks like it set you back a pretty penny.. lol.. Nice shop bro..

It looks like it will be great for guitar building. Yes you need a joiner if your gonna be gluing 2 pieces of wood end to end instead of one piece for the body, simply because it will make the join, line up perfectly. But you still have to use glue.. lol

I've been in contact with him lately as a matter of fact, ironic you'd say him. So, what your saying is, the plans that they had wasn't for the newer type and that there isn't any plans for the newer model?

Yeah I had read that but I just thought someone sold an actually step by step plan of what to buy and how to install each parts... but I called StewMac and they said they don't have the plans anymore.. just the i5252 free information sheet... If anyone has the actual plans or knows of where to get them let me know.

Found it on the Jaros web page. www.jaroscustomguitars.com

click on the About Jaros and then How we build them to get to this whole article... this is just part of it that has to do with the neck jig.. and I'm still not finding any plans..

Quote:

"Like you Dan, my small shop's in the basement, says Jim Jaros, "It's the perfect size though, for fretting, inlaying, wiring, and doing set-ups away from the hustle, bustle, and sawdust of Dad's shop. Also like you, I'm a big believer in the neck jig. Dad built a workbench neck jig from the Stew-Mac plans, and I think the fact that we jig and level every neck blank before we fret it sets our guitars apart from many others in the playability department. [the Jaros' guitars play exceptionally well.--Editor] I've got neck-jigging down to a science now, and know just how much tension to put on our necks to get perfect; low-action fret jobs every time. It's really easy to jig an unfinished neck blank-as opposed to you repair guys who have to be careful of the body and the finish. We're not doing repair work at this time, although we have in the past.

I think I'll call StewMac and ask about the plans. I'll let you guys know what I find out..

Matt

I think it would be well worth the effort.. they are charging 350 dollars for one.. and they are good to have. You can set up your neck to play much better with one, but the thing that made me wonder about neck jig plans is because I was reading about Jaros guitars and somewhere he suggested that he built one from Dan's plans.. I guess they took the plans off the market, and decided to make some major cash!! Maybe I can find the link and post it.

Matt

Gold plated Sperzels work good for me... they work very good in my opinion.. but I've had good luck out of others also.. It's not any major differences.. but just preferences that will make the decision...

I heard that there is a plan on how to make a Dan Erlewine Neck Jig... I looked on Stewmac.com but couldn't really find it.. does anyone know if they still sell the plans or only sell the product nowdays. I'm thinking that I'll need a neck jig since I really want my guitars to play good, but not quite sure I will learn how to build or use one unless I get alot more instruction.. lol

So does anyone know of a place to get the plans or is it best to just buy it?

Matt

I have an old J-45 Gibson 'banner year' guitar that my dad bought. Anyway, the neck is broke close to the heel, and it's a bad one. A long time ago I had a luthier to fix it.. cost me 3 hundred big ones and then one day I heard a noise and woke up.. didn't know what the noise was.. it turns out that the neck had broken again at the same place while it was in the case. I'm gonna post pictures when I get a chance to take some.. my digital camera is on loan... but haven't really needed it.. until lately.. so maybe in the next couple of days I can post it so you can get a better idea of how bad the break is.... Maybe someone can help me figure out how to fix it. Since I"m not much of an acoustic repairman.

Thanks Matt

Yeah but it will look cool for a month or two though.. lol

Who knows LGM.. I've only used the HVLP guns so far... If i get a chance I'll try out a conventional gun out.. and let you know how good it does.. Your probably right the conventional gun may do better and I shouldn't rush to judgement so quickly.. I was just told from a couple of guitar builders that I look up to also.. that they used a HVLP spray gun and so from that I knew I already had access to one, so I used it, and so far it's looking great. But then again, I had heard that the very first HVLP guns that came out didn't do a very good job.. so maybe I'm just using a better built one.. not sure... It's not that I don't think conventional guns aren't good.. that's not true.. I just had access to the HVLP and have hopefully gotten used to the way they spray.. but I'm open minded enough to try the conventional gun.

Matt

No problem man.. I'm just going by what was told to me by some very good guitar builders.. and since I was lucky enough to have access to a good HVLP.. that's what I'm gonna use.. but there is no right or wrong way to anything.. just different roads to the same place. As long as it looks good when you finish...

I'm sure LGM can help you out on this subject.. but I think a good HVLP conversion gravity feed gun would be better for you. SATA makes good guns.. but I'm thinking you'll have to have up to a 5hp one for some of those guns...

Please put down your lacquer!!! lol... If I was you knowing what i know now.. I'd invest in a gravity feed hvlp conversion gun and paint it with polyurethane clear.. or polyester.... much more durable.. if you do stay with nitrocellulose lacquer.. let it fully cure up to 3 weeks before final polishing.. read LGM's tutorials

Yeah, because when your talking about gluing another piece of wood to extend the neck tenon.. your not really gaining anything in my opinion.. but anything is possible.. it will work. but you'll have to work alot more to get everything fitting properly.. and leaving it bolt on.. would be alot easier ... but I say go for it.. if that's what you want.. do it..because only you know what you want...

Matt