bugman96

Saw an add for a 9" delta bandsaw...$75. Yes or no?

This is straight from Koch's book. The scale length is as close as the saddles will ever be, so the scale length will be adjusted longer to intonate. You can play it safe with 75% or if your confident in your ability to measure then do it like Koch suggested for optimal bridge placement, since you will never have a time when you need to adjust shorter than the scale length. On a TOM bridge you will need to angle the bass side like others have suggested. ← That clears up my confusion

So then what if I'm going to use this bridge? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...ail_Bridge.html I didn't see it listed on the stewmac fret calculator...should I assume it's the same as the other non-trem strat bridges?

Yup, Wellingtonia is the exact same thing as the giant redwood. In this site: http://www.bioimages.org.uk/HTML/T42285.HTM Sequoiadendron giganteum - the latin name currently accepted by botanists (Lindley) - author who first described it in scientific literature Buchholz (Wellingtonia) - Bucholz probably described it around the same time as Lindley but under the genus Wellingtonia... I knew college would pay off someday...

I'm new to the wood acquisition business, but where do you guys live where your lumber yards have mahogany and other nice stuff. The ones near me only seem to only have construction grade cedar and pine (home depots by me have maple and oak, but that's about it).

Yeah, probably not a bad idea. But I've never built a guitar (currently planning) and thought it'd be better take it out of the kindling barrel and give it a good home. For anyone else interested, the wood's taken.

I have a small piece of maple from Home Depot that I don't need. Dimensions: 15 1/8" long 1.5" wide ~.75" thick has a cut (2 5/16") long from a table saw. It has some figure, but not the greatest. I think someone could turn it into a fingerboard for a mandolin. Pictures are here So you could see what it looks like, I included pics of the finished piece I used (Minwax Special Walnut stain and Deft spray can lacquer). It's free, and I'll pay for shipping; I'll only ship within the US though. Send me a PM if you're interested.

I've looked around at a bunch of the major online retailers but have never seen a tele humbucker bridge with the 3 barrel saddles. I've seen people ask on other guitar forums about them. Do they exist? If so, where can I buy one?

Thanks for the sample. They sound nice. Now I have to go to the Seymour Duncan site and listen to their tele rhythm pickup samples

Good point. The ones I think I'm most interested in based on the description from the Lace website are Blue, Lt Blue, and BUrgundy.

I'm debating whether or not to use a lace sensor or tele-style pickup in the neck position and before I decided I want to hear lace sensors but haven't been able to find any sound clips. ANyone know where I can find some?

From where though? None of the pre-cut stewmac nuts I've seen have advertised the radius.

Here's a rough sketch of the guitar I'm going to build (my first): http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bugman_96/de...9&.dnm=50bc.jpg I'm going to redraw it tomorrow making sure everything is squared and the lines are straight, etc...but you get the idea. Horizontal red line is where the saddles will be. and are my questions: Will I run into trouble using a compound radius neck ( 7-1/4" to 9-1/2", from USACG) and a telecaster bridge? I don't want a pickguard so I'm going to route a control cavity in the back. It's not going to have a top glued on so I'm wondering about how to go about routing/drilling so the pickups' wires can hookup with the control cavity. I've read that the nut should be radiused to match the radius of the fingerboard at the nut. Since I don't have the right tools, I'm thinking about getting a pre-cut curved bottom nut from Stewmac. Will this work with the 7 1/4" radius? Many thanks in advance. (I have some scrap cedar I'm going to practice building it with too).

I plan on using a non-trem bridge like for a strat or tele.

I'll post in here rather than in a new thread because this is already kind of dealing with my question. I'm going to be building my first guitar (hopefully within the next year) and will be using a Warmoth neck. I don't plan on using a pickguard so could I route the neck pocket deeper to get rid of the overhang gap? Or would that cause problems with action and bridge height?

I asked because I didn't know and I'm currently absorbing info on how to build a guitar so that I can hopefully make one in the near future. Not sure what kind of bridge I'm going to use yet though I'm leaning toward something like a tele bridge. I'll ask this here too so I don't clog up space with another stupid post: I know I can get wood for a solid from an online retailer but where can I go in the real world without placing a special order? I've been checking out local places and no one has anything usable. <-----never mind...I just found out exoticwoods.com is 15-20 minute drive away.

Another newbie question: how critical is the distance from the end of the fretboard/neck pocket to the bridge? Thanks.

Thanks, man. I was looking the guitars in my house and kinda figured that out but thanks again!

I have some Sperzel in-line tuners and want to know if they have to be used in-line or can I do 3-per side (in other words: does a 3 per side layout have to have machine heads with graduated post heights?