ByronBlack

I'm looking at this machine on ebay at the moment, and I can't find too much in the way of good information on google other than it's a 36" bandsaw - made by startrite. Here's the auction link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Does anyone have any experience or know of any reviews of this brand?

As far as joining the wings to the neck, I was considering using either biscuit-joinery or mortise and tenon as i've had some experience of these before. On a large guitar like an explorer, and the fact that i'll be thrashing with it, I would sleep happier knowing there is some real joinery in there and not just glue Also the extra contact area would also add to the overall 'wood on wood' contact :-) Say I go ahead and build a neck-thru (which I think i'm going to do just for the experience), if I make the fingerboard too low for the bridge, apart from ripping it off and starting again, what repair technique could I use? One last question. On the plans it seems the neck has no angle or tilt away from the body. I've read somewhere that straight necks like these aren't as nice to play as tilted necks, is this true or complete twaddle?

ah, I see - thanks for that, this is what is great about this forum, it's filling in all the blanks in my small amount of knowledge, Cheers guys.

Wes, could you outline what the benefit of a set-neck is, personaly i see it as just an un-flexible bolt-on style neck without the added advantage of being removable, now i'm 100% sure i'm being over simplistic, but I can't see what the advantage of a set-neck is...

Hey rich, those photo's are extremely useful, definitly helps me visualise the build, although to be honest, it scares me a little - the neck-thru seems very complicated, you've got me thinking about doing a bolt-on now, lol ! Is a neck-thru a big improvement on tonality? This is what would be a deal breaker for me, even though it will be my first build, I want it to sound as good as possible, so if a neck-thru is a definite improvement on tone, I guess i'll just stuck in and see where it gets me, whereas if not, i'll go with the easier bolt-on. BB

Cheers perry - doing the neck-thru will mean I wont have to change the plans - so I should probably go for it. As an aside, I plan to buy a slotted fingerboard from Stew-macs using the gibson compensated scale (to match the explorer) is the actual length of the fingerboard always the same on guitars that use the same scale? E.g will the fingerboard I buy from Stew-macs be the correct length for the neck on the explorer plans?

I think I can do anything, but whether for my first guitar the neck-thru is too much of a challenge, I don't know. I guess what i'm asking is, what is the skill level required to build a neck-thru compared to a bolt-on. Also with the thru-neck i'm slightly worried about the setup issue, not being able to shim the neck could be a problem, but then on the other hand, neck-thru's are supposed to sound that much better..

Hey fella's I've ordered some plans for a gibson explorer, and I believe that it will have a neck-thru design, as this is my first guitar, would it be best if I created it with a bolt-on neck as I get a general feeling these are easier to build for a first timer maker, and offer more options during the setup (ability to use shims etc). Can some of your more experienced guy's give me your opinions on this as i'm not quite sure which route to take. Thanks in advanced.

That looks to be a very good deal, definitly in my budget range, and big enough to do what I want it to do. Cheers for that!

I've just finished sanding a body back to wood, and based on this thread, it seams Tru-oil is the best oil to apply, i'll then wax over the top of that. Can anyone recommend a website that has a tutorial on how to actually apply the oil and wax?

Paitence I can do - guess i'll have to dive in and see how it goes. I've orderd my wood and templates, and will hopefully cut my first body on the weekend

This is great stuff guy's thanks - your definitly filling in blank parts of knowledge here, and in the process giving me more confidence to actually start the building. I espeically appreciate the tip on router bits, and will look to purchase the one you mentioned, I definitly don't want tear-out. I will mainly be using mahogany, is that less or more prone to tear out?

I've been looking at his course, and the type of guitar I would want to build is going to come to a lot because they're hardware seems a bit pricey, would you mind if I asked what the full course cost you, and whether you feel it's value for money, (you can private message me if you don't want to advertise the price). BB

Thanks Matt, I appreciate you outlining the steps there. I think thats how I am going to work, I came to most of the steps mentioned anyway, but I like the idea of the router to get accurate to the template, I was thinking of just doing it with a sander, but I can see the router would add a better profile. What wood and thickness do you guys usually use for a template? I was thinking of just some 1/4 inch ply.

Hi Tez Thanks for that excellent tip, i've been reading his website, and it seems just what i'm looking for! out of interest, what guitar did you make, and are continuing to make? BB

Jehle - thanks for the links, make some interesting reading. With regards the body, I don't mind using the beeswax as the guitar will be my own, and probably won't be played all that much. But i would probably use something harder if it was for sale or built for someone. Does the neck need to be oiled? Would this not make it harder to play than just a sanded smooth blank with a light treatment. As you can tell, i'm at a loss with regards the finishing. I've just purchased a book today about wood treatment, so should be a bit more clued up soon ;-)

Cheers for the links matt - only thing is they don't deliver to the UK, anyone know of an importer or a company willing to ship? Also, i've ordered Mervyn Hiscocks book, in that does he explain different ways of cutting body blanks, or does he have a specific way? I think I will make templates, my first guitars are going to be a slightly custom explorer shape (to avoid copyright issues) and I intend to make two at the same time. One I will keep, the other I hope to sell and use the money for more wood/tools.

Whichever I do, i'm sure of one thing, i'm going to have a great time, and I know that the guitar's I will end up building will better than what i've previously bought - that in itself is motivation for me. IJC - i'm with you with the hand tools, they are incredibly important, and like you my dad and my woodworking tutor at school (secondary) all put an emphasis on hand tools, so now I have built up some good skills with the chisel, plane and spokeshaver, these are infact my favourite tools, (alongside my Rotary Hobby Drill and Black & Decker Palm Sander - damn thats been a godsend!!)

Interesting reading guys. However I would like to clarify just a couple of small points. First of all, i'm quite well researched and well read on the subject and have a decent amount of experience in woodworking in general, just not in shaping with scoll or bandsaw's. Secondly, i'm not a KID and not rushing into this with my eye's closed. I've researched and read around the area for the best part of 6 months, and have played and set up guitars close to 10, so i'm not a complete newb. But, i must say it is fascinating to read all of your preferences for building the blanks. I do have a router, and handheld jigsaw, so if all else fails, I will try them. On the point of time, I don't care if it takes me 1 hour to cut a body blank as long as it is perfect, please don't put me in the bracket of people who rush into things without nessecary knowledge first. Either way, after the weekend i'll have more of an idea on which method suits my working technique, and i'll let you know what I eventually go with.

Whoah, guys, seems i've opened a can of worms here.. I appreciate all your viewpoints though, and I agree and disagree with some of your points, what I am going to do is to rent a scroll saw this weekend and cut a body blank with it, next week i'll be at my local college and will use their bandsaw. I will then compare the two tools and make a judgement from there, but I reiterate, I fully appreciate all your input, just don't go falling out on my behalf :-)

Fantastic, I shall give that a try on my next body (got three more to do ;( I'll let you know how it goes. With the nitromors, it might be that the jackson (rhodes) that I was stripping had a strong lacquer that it couldn't get through, but i'll give the aero industry a go and see how that turns out. failing I think i'll use a heat gun, all that sanding is giving my carpal tunnel syndrome :-)

Can someone recommened to me a proven quality chemical paint stripper for the use of removing the finish on standard clear coated guitars? I've tried Nitromors paint and varnish remover with absolutely rubbish results (left on for over 40 mins still didn't do a thing). Hence, i've been sanding for about 5 hours today ;( I'm in the UK, so will either need a web address that I could order from, or maybe a brand that someone has used that I could get from a hardware shop, any idea's?

Not sure about that one, i've seen some of your other designs on past threads, and I don't think is quite up there with the others - it's a bit too similar to a BC Rich for my liking - or maybe i'm thinking of a bass.. hmm Don't get me wrong, it could still make a great looking guitar :-)

Bigd - I understand that about scroll saws, i've always viewed them as more delicate, but not having a big enough budget for a large enough bandsaw, it might be my only way -- unless of course, the Jigsaw would be more suitable? Rhoads56 - I did think about that, in fact i'll be talking to my local college woodwork guy later this week, and hopefully i'll be able to use their stuff, although because I tend to work late into the night, it's usually more convenient for me to have my own stuff, but good suggestion nonetheless.

Hi Chaps, I'm in the process of stripping the paint of a Jackson Rhodes, (nearly finished, will have it done in a couple of hours). I intend to keep the natural finish using beeswax. However, once the sanding is done, whats the best way to prep the guitar ready for waxing? I've seen on here in some past posts about oils, but I don't want to interupt the natural colour too much. Also, i've stripped the paint down using 80grit paper, should I then sand down to 600 (or more) before I apply the wax, and would I need to use a grain sealent of some sort, or is it ok to apply the beeswax directly? Sorry for all the questions, but i've looked back through past threads but can't fill in all the blanks (Hiscock book etc are in the post :-). Would be grateful for some help.