weezerboy

thanks everyone,

if it helps at all the guitar is a squier affinity strat (hey d'you think i'm gonna put stickers on a good guitar?)

dan

DEJA-VU

this gets asked every month....more or less...in fact i think i've asked it once or twice

the primer is generally to get the coats on top of it to have something to grip onto and also helps increase the total number of coats which in turn affects the final result,

in the case of the material finish it is probably used to give the material adhesive something to grip onto as some materials/adhesives don't bond together.

i figured that i would start a new topic so that people know that i've changed the topic (slightly)

just to update....t-cut doesn't work at all

does anyone have any hints for removing very light (and i mean very light) scratches that just look like little scuffs.

any chemicals, treatments etc would be wonderful

thanks

dan

for anyone that doesn't know t-cut is a liquid which is used to restore colour on cars by removing very thin layers of paint.

pinch/squeal harmonics can be achieved anywhere as long as you have the right technique....hold the pick very tightly with very little pick showing and strike the string at a right angle to the bridge (ie straight down)

hope that helps

dan

thanks again matt but i think i want a hardtail....tuning that low i don't think vibrato will be a problem!

mines a danelectro black coffee metal distortion....mmmmmm saturation

i think t-cut is just a scratch remover/polishy kinda thing

thanks very much

and just in the nick of time

dan

why don't you check out this link.

its a full tut.

its generally bests to leave the fretboard on the neck (as its easier) but i can't see any real problems in doing it before attachment.

dan

guitarbuild does but only in CAD and stuff...but the softwares there if you don't have it.

hey again...after removing three years worth of stickers from one of my babies, i am left with lots of little scratches...could i use t-cut and if so how much?

are you making your own neck with AANJ or do you already have one but lost the bits(or whatever)?

tahnks again

what i'm planning on doing is using a CNC miller to route out the design and then fill as there won't (fingers crossed) be any problems with the design not being perfect...now for the next question....the CNC miller uses lots of suckers to hold down the work but due to a rear control cavity and the contours of the body how can i get it to stick down?

thanx clavin..but do i varnish over it (<stoopid question i know!)

i'm now listenig to the new strokes album.....ITS ONLY 33 MINUTES LONG!!!!!!!!!!!

***???

oh well at least it was cheap....£8.99 inc delivery from hong kong...thank the lord for cdwow.com!

hey

i was wondering about doing inlays on a body...would it be best to use solid material or some form of filler....also do you just varnish over it?

any tips/tricks would be highly appreciated

dan

just use a 500K log pot....its the standard knob used in guitars and can be found anywhere.....radio shack, maplins, tandys, stew mac etc

hope that helps

dan

hell ****ing yeah!!!!

who would of thought that a guitar that looks so ****ing cool could have a sound that lives up to that.....congratulations.

seriously can i buy it off you now?

BTW of course i was kidding about balsa...although big sheets of it are v.expensive and it is classed as a hardwood despite being so soft.

thanks to all guilty parties

the graphics will be more like a strange surreal scary weird confusing wonderful sick mind altering lovely picture.....<and breath>

thanks again

dan

hello,

i was wondering if it possible to draw on a guitar and then varnish over....i have a friend who is an excellent artist but doesn't like painting....would this be possible..

thanks

dan

why don't you try www.buzzfeiten.com?

balsa

www.universaljems.com