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Ptt-Guitars

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Everything posted by Ptt-Guitars

  1. Thats why I posted this poll, to collaborate peoples ideas and knowledge. Before you attempt to shred what I'm saying, add in what you think, tell us what you know about which brand etc: The idea is for everyone to say their two-bob so all of us can learn.
  2. Hey people, with the massive influx of cheap, crappy, un-accurate and un-preditable power tools, what are us n00b's to do? Shall we save and buy quality (in anticipation that the instrument building bug has bitten and theres no medicine) or shall we buy cheap because in the long run theres not really anything wrong with them? Great to hear what other builders think, especially from a broad range of proffesionals to begginers!
  3. So that means that when I buff it, the nitro won't recede into the pores?
  4. Hey I'm making a guitar for a school project, I sprayed it with nitrocellulose and I need to hand it up in less that two weeks (It will be one and a half weeks by the time I've done the final sanding and coat) I was wondering what the minimum curing period is, I live in Adelaide - Australia, its quite warm and dry, I can probably refit the hardware and then in a couple of weeks remove it and buff the guitar. but if I can get past it with less fussing about it would be great, any tips.....?
  5. I've just finished an acoustic guitar with a B-band undersaddle pickup and NFI pre. The sound is awesome and they use some wikid electret-bubble technology. It really sounds like a mic system, just wihout the drawbacks that can come in loud enviroments. Check em out, I got mine from a supplier on E-Bay, it was a unit from a washburn that was never used. They have samples of the sound on their website have a look. B-Band website
  6. Hey have a look through the stew-mac catalogue/website. They supply necks with unshaped headstocks and they come with the lacquer and instructions on how to finish it. You can probably just follow their tips and methods. If you want to do a new inlay, you'll probably have to put a new veneer on it, or if it doesn't have one at all put one on it. You can probably treat it like a normal finishing so check out 'project guitar webpage'
  7. I'm planning to make a pinless bridge for the guitar I'm making. A few things I'm unsure about: -Is there a limit to the amount of material of the bridge holding the strings? -Is there a certain angle that the strings should run off the back of the saddle to prevent them from cutting into the bridge (holes)? Also the back of the bridge isnt parallel to the saddle, so therefor the angle that the holes drilled in the back of the bridge will have to vary in steepness, is there a way in which i can accuratly work this out? -Any info, tips or references (other sites or documented procesess) please drop the info, thanks...
  8. Im currently building an acoustic steel string, the neck is rosewood and I've inlaid it with strips of maple. Things which I took into account were, the desity of the wood used for the inlay (in relation to wear and tear) and the size of the inlay, also relavent to the previous point. It will be interesting to see how it reacts to extreme playing.
  9. I have to agree, I've almost finished a guitar using the Cumpiano book, many of the things have been outdated since the book was published in 1980's, a good way to get tips is through this site and chatting to people in the know. Also if you have time spend lots of it experimenting and making moulds and templates, this will make things more accurate later on and it will be much easier if you making more than one guitar at a time. I definitely had issues with the arching, it doesnt explain it well at all, however everyone will think they have the best way of doing it so take your time and you'll find what works for you.
  10. Allright so I made a mistake, it's actually a brass Stew-mac caul in a Astor 51 press, however there's no way anything other than the plain fingerboard can be placed under it without limiting modification....I dunno Iv'e sussed it out now... (I tried to load a photo but I dunno how)
  11. Eh? This makes absolutely no sense. It's self-centering, and if your arbor/drill press will reach, the stewmac fret press works just lovely, whether the fingerboard is on or off the neck. Yes, you need to figure out how to support your neck while fretting, but that's a problem you need to solve, not a design flaw on StewMac's part. ← All right calm down.... What I'm saying is, when the press is fully open, the neck combined with the fretboard doesn't fit under the press, no matter how i try to manuvre it, the press is cast out of solid metal so theres no way to gain a bigger gap no matter what i do, anyway the jobs done now so if you are a sponser or worker or stew-mac chill out, im only saying it doesnt work for what i needed, im not condeming the business.
  12. Hey I finished the fretting today. But a rather funny and ironic series of events occured. After gluing the fretboard to the neck I had a trial go at fretting the neck, I put it under the press which I had borrowed and found it was too big. Whoever designed the press (Stew mac) made it so that it could only be used on the fretbard blanks, not combined with the neck. I then proceeded to modify the press so that it would fit and ended up spending a good whack of time messing about setting it up, so after all of that it may have been easier to fret it off the neck. Anywho the jobs done now and Im quite satisfied with the outcome, thanks everyone for your suggestions.
  13. Cheers guys sounds like its best to fret it on the neck. I also had a look at Robert Benedetto's and Cumpianos methods and that seems to be the way to go, thanks...
  14. Hey I'm making my first guitar (acoustic steel) under the guidance of John Liddy (awesome mandolins) and Tim Wright (sweet guitars). Ive come to the point where I'm fretting the neck. What I want to know is, is it better to glue the fretboard on and then fret it, or fret it prior to gluing the fretboard onto the neck...
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