Jump to content

SamIAmUBUF

Members
  • Posts

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SamIAmUBUF

  1. as I said before, this is a rough representation of the body. The bottom horn is not true to scale
  2. I'm going with a TOM style bridge and string-through-body mounting, so your second option sounds ridiculously cool. too bad the string spacing at the neck is too tight to use ferrules. You, sir, are brilliant
  3. I just have to find someone who can magically turn my rosewood fretboard into ebony
  4. yeah, the bottom horn doesn't really come that close. Keep in mind this isn't to exact proportions. I don't have a camera good enough to take a detailed pic of my plans, so I half-assed this image instead
  5. ok, here's a basic (poorly photoshopped) idea of my bass' body shape. It's basically a cross between a few Ritter models and a BC Rich wave And with some poorly photoshopped hardware and electronics... Let me know what you think thus far
  6. the reason I thought of this is that I don't particularly like the appearance of a zero fret with a nut behind it (I think it looks kind of awkward and inconsistant with the rest of the neck), but I love the tonal consistancy and freedom to bend of a zero fret.
  7. the headstock I have planned would pull the strings straight through the grooves....I may have to abandon this idea ← I don't follow...are you saying you're not going with a tilt-back headstock? If you have straight pull across the zero fret, and enough wood backing up the slots behind the zero fret, I would have thought you'd be OK even though the grain is (presumably) running parallel to the strings. I finished an ebony nut for my 5 about a month ago, 13-degree tilt-back with a not-too-severe but certainly-not-straight string path between nut and posts. Works fine so far (but the grain is also perpendicular to the strings). ← I'm saying I'm considering scrapping the whole idea and just using a nut. Southpa's advice has raised some serious doubt.
  8. that's a really good point. the headstock I have planned would pull the strings straight through the grooves. Unfortunately, I'm using a zero fret so I can bend easier on the first couple of frets. looks like, for the sake of my fretboard, I may have to abandon this idea Thanks for all of your input
  9. ok, I want to use a zero fret on my 6-string bass. It's normal to have a nut behind the zero fret to hold the string spacing. Here's my question; Is there any reason why I can't, insead of using a nut, cut slots in the fretboard behind the zero fret to hold the stings in place?
  10. I've used it for a couple of guitar bodies and drum shells. I'm pretty pleased with it. just make sure you clean the nozzle frequently, because they clog very easily. I always clean it after spraying, then again before I do the next coat.
  11. No, I didn't realize that. As I said before, I've never dealt with active electronics. That's why I asked.
  12. This EQ and mighty mite active soapbars
  13. I guess my followup question is, can an active EQ be used with active bass pickups?
  14. what's the difference between an onboard preamp and an active onboard EQ? Sorry, I've done a lot of passive guitar wiring, but I've never touched this stuff
  15. the through-body neck is maple with ebony and walnut lams. I haven't yet selected the primary wood for the body wings, but they'll have a 3/8" purpleheart top to allow me to bevel without exposing the wood underneath. My question is, Can I get away with a 1-3/8 thick body? I'm trying to cut down on weight but still have a strong, solid body. It's a 6-string, so I realize there will be a lot of pressure on the wood. Thanks for your input
  16. I'm looking for a bass preamp for my 2 6-string active soapbars. I'm looking for something simple with volume, blend and 2- or 3-band eq pots. I'm planning on installing some onboard effects, so I want a small preamp so I don't kill my bass tone with too much routing. Any suggestions here?
  17. Anyone know where I might be able to find a tune-o-matic style 6-string bass bridge?
  18. you can buy an onboard overdrive Here for relatively cheap.
  19. Thanks for the responses guys. I actually haven't built the body yet, but I have a design that will allow for the effects
  20. I was wondering it it's possible to carefully gut a bass single-effect pedal and install it in a bass as an onboard effect. Has anyone here ever tried this? ~A-Train
  21. I actually found PH thick enough to do the body, but I've heard that it's just too heavy to make an entire body (or solid body wings) out of. Would it be worth it to use a piece of lighter wood sandwiched between 2 layers of PH and cut the body wings out of that?
  22. the width of the fretboard at the 24th is 3 1/4 (the string spacing at the 24th fret will be less than that) I modeled it (so some degree) after carvin's 6-string basses. I have small fingers, so I want a bit narrower neck. To answer your question, I was thinking northern ash if I could get it. I like an instrument with a bit of weight to it. At this point, I'm really into the idea of usng purpleheart, but I'm still looking around and keeping my options open. Also, any thoughts on where I can get a relatively inexpensive purpleheart body blank or enought to make a body for this bass?
  23. I'm not covering the through body section. I'm simply attaching the wings to the side of the through bodu section without putting any top on it. Also, I'm not trying to blend from purple to clear. it'll be a clearly defined line between the purple body wings and the through-body To be honest, I didn't even think about using purpleheart. That's a very good thought. I'll look into it to see if the cost outweights the extra work I'd have to do mixing the right shade of purple
  24. I'm building a 6-string bass with a thru-body neck (thanks to erikbojerik for the neck blank) and I was hoping some experienced builders had some suggestions or comments. I haven't really finished planning everything out, but hese are the specs I'm considering thus far: Dimensions: 2 1/16" at the nut (Carvin 6-string bass nut) 3 1/4" at the 24th fret 34" scale 27 fret pau ferro fretboard 3 1/4" string spacing at the bridge 24" Hot Rod truss rod I'm considering ash body wings with a transparent purple finish and transparent finish on the thru-body neck (more-or-less to make the body frame the ebony/walnut/maple striped neck). I'll probably finish off with all gold hardware. Any suggestions, warnings, obvious mistakes?
×
×
  • Create New...