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unklmickey

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Everything posted by unklmickey

  1. good call Mattia, you're no slouch on a debate. i left that one alone, to see if you'd pick up on it. you didn't disappoint me. in your first post about this, you mentioned a Tele, which is an interesting case on it's own. the bridge pickup is mounted on the same metal plate as the bridge. very special mojo there. but, this further blurs the lines between bridge and construction. if you were to compare a build with hard tailed Strat bridge, and an identical build with a one-piece wraparound bridge, you would be able to gauge the effect that a bridge has on tone. IMHO, the wraparound would sound far different. (and have more sustain) i think that sums things up pretty well.
  2. sure Mattia, i'll agree to that. and a LP fitted with Fender vintage-wound SCs is never gonna sound remotely like one with P-90s..............no matter what woods you choose for either or both. I agree with you Unk 100% hey Goat, most anyone who knows me, will agree 100%.............................with my second sentence in that post, anyway.
  3. no, to begin with, the poles (#1 and #8 on the switch picture) are #2 and #7 on the wiring diagram.
  4. different? yes. better? a matter of opinion. most machine wound pickups are straight wound and a hand-winder has a harder time duplicating that, than scatterwinding. (draw your own conclusions as to why many hand-winders insist scatterwinding is better.)
  5. PerpetualMotion......SustainSystem.....EnergyLoop..... or you could just apply for a new Zip code?
  6. ROFL ..... i was just thinking about sending you an e-mail. i remembered you had added DSL a to the middle of your "MasterBlaster stack".
  7. i'm gonna make a statement that will probably be seen as incendiary. but what the heck, i've been known to throw gasoline on a fire from time to time. for an acoustic, the type of wood (and construction methods) has a huge effect on the tone. on a solid-body electric, not-so-much. on a solid body, choose the wood for LOOKS. the bridge and pickups will have more effect on the tone, than the wood.
  8. probably not. you might want to read a post i did on another forum. at the very least you'll learn what happens in the center position of these switches. scroll down to the part about series/split/parallel. the switches shown are DPDT on-on-on. for 4PDT, just add an exact duplicate, to the right or left. the red lines indicate internal connections in the 3 positions. http://guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.c...ge=1#1157994747 good luck, unk
  9. hi Tom, if you give us your real name, i'll post your obituary after your "poking" session. cheers, unk
  10. no. if indeed those are 4PDT on-on-on switches, you must show all 4 poles to be able to keep track of which throws are engaged in the center position.
  11. hi bscur, what you are describing is a 2P5T switch. it's 1/2 of a 4 pole superswitch. you can just use a 4 pole superswitch, and ignore one half of it. you might be able to find a 2 pole superswitch for a couple dollars less ($12)... http://www.acmeguitarworks.com/Single-Wafe...q$DF$ you could pay a little more and get the 4 pole Fender brand version that Marksound linked to ($17): http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electri...derswitches.htm or if it doesn't matter about being in a bag marked with the official Fender logo, you could pay EVEN MORE, and get a 4-pole switch WITHOUT the Fender logo on the bag, from StewMac ($20) cheers, unk
  12. hi UncleJ, you didn't mention the make or model of that mic. many of the older mics used a 4 pin connector with a threaded retainer ring. some of them connected a low impedance winding from an internal transformer to pins 1 & 2, and a high impedance winding to pins 3 & 4. but, without knowing the make and model, you can't be certain how it's wired. cheers, unk
  13. if you globbed on so much solder, that it touches the case of the pot, on any of the "bottom" lugs (in relation to the drawing you were using), then you've created a short that will kill the signal, no matter where the controls are set. do you have a multi-meter?
  14. sorry, i somehow missed there was more info asked for on this thread. so, if you want to use a mini-toggle DPDT on-on-on switch, start with this drawing: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...&pid=304408 the output of the volume control of one neck goes where pickup 1 is indicated in the drawing. the output of the volume control of the other neck goes where pickup 2 is indicated in the drawing. the black wire from the center terminals of the switch connect to the tip of the output jack. if you want to use a full size switch, like a LP selector, start with this drawing: http://static.zoovy.com/img/guitarelectron...u_hh3t22_01.jpg it's just like the wiring will be in your doubleneck, except what comes before the volume controls. cheers, unk
  15. first, until the question is answered, it is unknown whether a SPDT (3 terminals) or a DPDT on-on-on (6 terminals) is required. second, the throws go to the volume controls, not the selector switches. cheers, unk
  16. hey Goat, i'm glad we had this conversation. now you know what kind of switch you need for this application. if you had bought the wrong one, it wouldn't have worked..........................and that would have been baaaaaaaaaaaaad. (sorry, i just had to.) cheers, unk
  17. there is a difference between what happens in the center position of these 2 types of switches. in the drawing you provided, "your" switch in it's center position would connect the top pole (center terminal) to both it's left and right throws. same with the lower pole. so in the center position, the hot will be connected directly to ground -- no sound. "my" switch in the center position, connects the upper pole to only the left throw, and the lower pole only to the right pole. here's a drawing i did a while back that makes the switch a bit more visual. scroll down to the series /split / parallel section. the red lines indicate internal connection of the switch. http://guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.c...ge=1#1157994747 .
  18. c'mon Wes, don't leave us hanging like that. give us the answer for cryin' out loud!
  19. the only question that needs to be answered first is: do you want a 3 position switch -- neck "a" / both necks / neck "b". or a 2 position switch -- neck "a" / neck "b"? .
  20. hi Goat, i can't open the link you gave. so i can't verify if the wiring will work with the switch you suggested. (i suspect it won't.) i know series/split/parallel HB can be done with the one i suggested. actually it can be accomplished with half of the switch i suggested. so you could even do 2 HBs with the same switch. cheers, unk
  21. you haven't convinced me. by this logic, lead would have even greater sustain than steel............................i'm not buying that.
  22. hi goat, the switch you linked to, has a different connection pattern than the one i suggested. i'm interested in seeing the wiring you're planning on using. i've never seen anyone implement a series/split/parallel arangement on that kind of switch. thanks, unk
  23. http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/SWT36
  24. yeah, i guess it's just a familiarity thing. i haven't been around long enough to know the personality dynamics. but when it comes to measurements, i hope i never gain THAT kind of familiarity!
  25. Guys! don't look at troubleshooting as being a competition. sometimes even the most unlikely cause, is the one that applies. most of the suggestions posted were based on reasonable possibilities. even though i picked one that was very likely, i could have been wrong. and i wouldn't have felt the slightest bit bad about it! the point is, there were several possibilities suggested, and KoRg was able to find the problem, and repair it. i call that success, by any measure. congrats to all. unk
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