vaxination

ok, so it looks like i will have to take them down one by one. oh, btw, i can't use a radius block because of fretboard has a compound radius.

i have a pre-radiused fretboard that has a 10-16 compound radius. however, it does not have any dot inlays. i would like to install the dot inlays. how do i get the dots level with the board? since it is a compound radius, i can't use a fretboard radius sanding block. am i going to have to carefully file/sand the dots individually or is there some cool technique that someone has to accomplish this?

well, doing searches on this forum and reranch just gave me so many different answers that i felt that i would like to get some advice first hand. ok, so i am ready to grain fill my swamp ash body to prepare it for a solid color finish. after reading other threads about grain filling, i realized that there were a lot of people doing different procedures. now, my understanding is that i should apply the grain filler directly to the body. however, i have read that others like to lay down a clear coat first then apply the grain filler. i have also read something about a "wash coat". ok, then after i apply the grain filler (maybe 2 times or enough to get the grained filled in), i suppose that i can then apply my sanding sealer. again, i have read some posts where some people shoot a clear coat over the grain filler prior to applying sanding sealer. so, well then... what steps do you folks take? also, i have a can of behlen's water based grain filler... opinions?

i am just about done with building the body (just gotta do the tummy and forearm cuts). i will be using a 2 post strat style trem. since i am going to have to bang them in, i was wondering if i should install them now prior to the finishing stage just in case i slip up while banging them in. your recommendations?

i know that this thread is a bit old, but as i was doing my "searches" i came across it. so in reference to the previous post, does that mean the body binding should be installed prior to routing the neck and, if so, does the binding hold tightly enough (thinking of using "Weld On 16" as per stewmac) that it does not peel up when the router bit comes in contact with it? sorry for resurrecting the thread again, however, i would appreciate any and all replies!

i also think it would be a great resource! only thing tho, you will just disappoint those forum members who live to tell people "use the search button"... you know, the RTFM types! you will seriously affect their quality of life!

ah... the fine tuners! thanks

tried search but i came up empty. has anyone heard or tried installing a floyd rose trem without a locking nut, but using locking tuners (i.e. sperzels or planet waves) and a graphtech graphite nut? would this work?

just had another question about finishing and binding while we're at it. if we are dyeing the body... say dyeing a maple top and a mahogany back, would it be better to put the binding on after applying the dyes?

thanks for sharing your technique and the link to the reinforce the description of creating a hook for the razor scraper. it seems that it will take a lot of clear lacquer to bring the level over the binding up to the rest of the body.

i was watching a dan erlewine video and his partner paints over the binding then scrapes it off just prior to spraying the clear coats. i was just wondering how you folks do it?