PoorMan

I doubt you quoted $175 to drop a 3A(you grade on a 5A scale if I read your site correctly) curly cap on one of your $70 prepped African Mahogany body blanks? Is that too much? Not sure if you're asking me or Rich but...I don't know fair market prices (that's why I'm getting quotes). But it's more than I'm willing to spend. Did you send your quote to my email? I didn't get it yet.

I doubt you quoted $175 to drop a 3A(you grade on a 5A scale if I read your site correctly) curly cap on one of your $70 prepped African Mahogany body blanks? Nope, that was USA Custom Guitars.

Yes, I did send a request to your site. I didn't received your response though. Did you email it to me?

You've been a huge help, Rich. Thank you very much.

Hey Rich, Thanks for your advice and input. I'm not familiar with the differences between instrument grading and standard grading, but your question made me consider what I really want...I just want some figuring so it doesn't look too plain--to break up the top. I'm flexible with the amount of figuring. I think 2A would suffice (maybe even A). I prefer flame, but in reality quilt or spalt would work too. Are there any good online vendors to get a well surfaced 1/4" drop-top and 1.5" African Mahogany blank? I'd be willing to try to glue it up myself. But I doint have a planer joiner. Maybe a forum bro can help a newb out? Thanks!

Not a bad idea. Thanks.

The single cut design is about Les Paul sized and will indeed require a smaller piece of wood. Thanks for the link!

Yes, I was looking for an already topped blank. I suspected the Explorer would be the wiser choice for a first build. Thanks!

Greetings all, Kind of a newb with a 2 part question. I'm coinsidering 2 builds... 1) Custom body design, mahogany back and flame maple top with binding. It's a single cutaway design. This is my preference between the 2 build options. OR 2) Korina Explorer copy (I have templates). I'm slightly less enthused about this option. But I suspect it will cost a great deal less and probably be easier to build. Considering the cost of figured maple, and this being my first build (which I may butcher), I'm wondering if I should build an Explorer instead because the wood will cost less? I don't want to spend too much in case I ruin it. Any advice or suggestions? Also, can anyone recommend a good affordable body blank supplier? I was quoted $175 for 1/4" AAA maple on mohogany from one supplier...pretty expensive compared to a basic Mahogany blank. I don't want to go with a thinner top for fear of sand-throughs. Thanks!

I was trying to disassemble a Gotoh ABR-1 and I can't get the saddles and screws out of the bridge body. It's as if the screws are too long because the screw "collars" are hanging up on the bridge body when I try to pry them out. Help?

But isn't there a "better" position harmonically? I remember for a neck it's at the 24th fret...but I can't remember for the brige p'up.

I have a newer Gibby LP Jr that I want to rout for a bridge 'bucker. How do I locate the proper position for the pickup?

Nope, cloth rub did nothing. Tried auto glaze (the most gentle of auto polishes) on the bottom of the plate. Like GuitarGuy said, it removed the black quickly and didn't make it look any better. I don't know what this stuff is! Powdercoating would be more durable (heck I think paint would be too) but paint would respond much better to polish. What the hizzy?!?!?!

First time working with black hardware--in this case a black StewMac fixed bridge...W is this stuff? Looks hazy and I need to clean and polish it up. Is is paint? Is it powdercoating? Is it something I don't even know about? What is it?

Bummer! Well...I guess I can pull out my trusty file again if needed.

I filed them down (again). Will sealing the neck prevent this from happeneing again? I tung oiled the neck last night.

Cheap Mighty Mite neck...thought I filed the tangs down flat. After not touching the neck for several months I find the tangs are hanging out the side of the neck (they could draw blood). What's the best way to address the issue? I don't think the tangs grew back or anything, I just probably didn't do as good a job filing them down as I thought.

Cool! Found a relative with a thickness planer (he's in construction.)

First off...thanks to all for your advice. Now--Decisions, decisions... I guess a 2" body with some tone chambers would be nice. But I think I might prefer a standard thickness body. The edges on this particular body are not rounded. I intended to use this particular body because it's inexpensive and I don't have a band saw to cut my own. For arguments sake, what tool (I assume some sort of plane?) would I use to shave the body thinner? Perhaps now is a good time to consider purchasing a band saw. Can anyone reccomend a decent inexpensive band saw?

My question should have been: How is this usually addressed? In this case, is it normal practice to thin the body in an effort to get a total body thickness of 1 3/4", or do most apply the top as is and leave the body at 2"? The body I'm looking at is unfinished, rough cut in a tele shape. It has no routing of any kind for controls, pickups, neck cavity etc. I haven't purchased this body as of yet. Is it easy to thin out or should I pursue a 1.5" body elsewhere? I don't own a band saw (hence my preference for a rough cut body as opposed to a body blank) Thanks, Dave

Did a search, couldn't find an answer...(yes, I'm new to this) I jumped at the opportunity to buy a quilt maple top (1/4" thick). My question is in regards to body thickness. I was planning to put this on a Telecaster body (standard 1 3/4" thick) which would make a 2" thick body. Is this how this is normally done? Is that too thick/heavy? Do people usually put 1/4" tops on 1 1/2" bodies? I'd like to keep the body at 1 3/4", but not sure the best way to thin out the body. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Any pics, Duff Beer Man?

uh...I prefer nollock's delivery method.

Started ordering parts and plans to build a 58 Explorer...hope I didn't bite off more than I can chew. Wish me luck!