PoorMan

We will help however we can. We recently quoted someone with similiar specs it could have been you PoorMan.

I doubt you quoted $175 to drop a 3A(you grade on a 5A scale if I read your site correctly) curly cap on one of your $70 prepped African Mahogany body blanks?

Is that too much?

Not sure if you're asking me or Rich but...I don't know fair market prices (that's why I'm getting quotes). But it's more than I'm willing to spend.

Did you send your quote to my email? I didn't get it yet.

We will help however we can. We recently quoted someone with similiar specs it could have been you PoorMan.

I doubt you quoted $175 to drop a 3A(you grade on a 5A scale if I read your site correctly) curly cap on one of your $70 prepped African Mahogany body blanks?

Nope, that was USA Custom Guitars.

We will help however we can. We recently quoted someone with similiar specs it could have been you PoorMan.

Yes, I did send a request to your site. I didn't received your response though. Did you email it to me?

Price range on a 1/4" top that is surfaced(sanded with a thickness sander) is going to start at probably $15 for a lower grade, the next grade up would probably be $10-15($25-30) more(that would be a nice looking top, but figure would be broken or irregular, possibly a bit of color), the next grade up would be another $10-15($35-40) more and would have really good even figure, the higher grade could have a wider range of price but should be somewhere between another $15-40($50-80) at this grade you should see strong full even figure, no displeasing color variation, the wood should be quartersawn(prices in the upper end of this grade are going up right now). Mind you this is all 1/4"-3/8" drop top, Curly Maple. If you look for carved tops in the 3/4"-1" range these prices are going to be about 125% higher(larger volume of wood).

6/4-8/4 Khaya lumber is running less than $7 bd. ft. (kiln dried, select). Your probably looking at 4-4.7 bd. ft(something like $30). If you can buy that locally you would save a bundle on shipping. If you have it thicknessed and jointed locally at a cabnet shop or similar they will probably charge $10-$20(which is about the same as what most dealers charge plus they need to add a bit to cover packaging to shipping and handling). Locally you could spend $40-50 after paying for wood and machining(basic cabnet shop) maybe a bit less, Shipped from an instrument wood dealer, your cost will be closer to $70-75(allowing $20ish for shipping) for African Mahogany. Genuine Mahogany is running up to twice the price of Khaya, services remain the same.

If I remember correctly Mammoth link offers body blanks and they are members of the board.

Chuck at 3D Hardwoods is oustanding, and can set you up with a fine set of figured maple.link Be sure to let him know you need the wood surface(he normally surfaces, but make sure he understands you do not have a planer or drum sander). There are other dealers, but Chuck seems to me to be about as fine a dealer as you will find.

Have a look at Gilmer(west coast wood dealer)-link and Exotic Hardwoods (east coast wood dealer)link. That will give you a bit of reference to what is out there, both of these dealers are quality instrument wood suppliers.

There are other members of the forum that may be willing to help out. I would offer, but I don't have much time right now.

Peace,Rich

You've been a huge help, Rich. Thank you very much.

Can you elaborate on what the 3A grade top looked like(I am trying to figure out the grading scale used). Some dealers use a 1A, 2A, 3A, 4A, 5A, and "instrument" grade scale. On that scale many dealers have fair but broken figure that is not strong throughout a board @ 4A. If that is the scale that this dealer is using the top is not going to be very expensive(especially at 1/4"). A picture of a board with similar figure to what you are after would be handy.

If you are interested in keeping the cost down I would suggest a Khaya(african Mahogany) body blank. In service Khaya is exceptionally stable, and weighs just a bit less than honduran Mahogany. It is a great wood for bodies, and the price right now is significantly lower (about 50%) the cost of Honduran. Figured maple prices are on the rise in the highest grades. ONLY the highest grades demand huge premiums. A little flexability in the look and you can have your 1/4" drop top for significantly less. If really strong figure is a must but a bit of color is cool, that can cut the price 30%.

Most of the cost of what you are asking for is in the cost to make the blank up. You will pay $60 an hour(pretty standard shop rate, but can be higher) for that prep. The work is not really difficult, and if you are going to build a guitar it would be good to get into these tasks(this is what we do). If you want to buy a well surfaced drop top and a prepped body blank, your surfaces will be very close to ready to glue up.

Rich

Hey Rich,

Thanks for your advice and input.

I'm not familiar with the differences between instrument grading and standard grading, but your question made me consider what I really want...I just want some figuring so it doesn't look too plain--to break up the top. I'm flexible with the amount of figuring. I think 2A would suffice (maybe even A). I prefer flame, but in reality quilt or spalt would work too.

Are there any good online vendors to get a well surfaced 1/4" drop-top and 1.5" African Mahogany blank? I'd be willing to try to glue it up myself. But I doint have a planer joiner.

Maybe a forum bro can help a newb out?

Thanks!

Another suggestion would be that there might be someone on here that would be willin' to make you a blank with a maple top, for an extra fee besides the price of wood. There you would be guaranteed to get good wood and a well made blank, now, I don't know if anyone will actually do that, but it's certainly worth puttin' up a post in the stuff wanted section.

Not a bad idea. Thanks.

You don't really say much about how big the custom design is or what types of woods you are going to use or anything. A mahogany Les Paul without a maple top is going to need a lot smaller of a body blank than an Explorer, so it will need less wood and be cheaper. But a 1/2" flamed maple top is going to add some cost. For a body with a maple top, I don't see any need to use AAA grade mahogany. Just a nice flat or quarter sawn piece that is free from knots or odd grain run out. It may not be pretty but that is what the maple is for. Go to www.woodfinder.com and enter your zip code, it'll give you the lumber dealers and mills in your area, you can find out what they have and what kind of cost they have.

The single cut design is about Les Paul sized and will indeed require a smaller piece of wood.

Thanks for the link!

so you are looking for an already topped mahogany blank? you are really limited with that selection. harldy anyone does that. but for your other question, i would go with an explorer. just because it is a basic shape, and not hard to construct. straight sides make it easier to sand also. i would definitly go with that instead. and know matter how good you think you are., 99.984874754% of peoples first builds are not that great no matter how much you plan. just beause the sheer absence of experience. thats what makes you a good builder.

Yes, I was looking for an already topped blank.

I suspected the Explorer would be the wiser choice for a first build. Thanks!

Greetings all,

Kind of a newb with a 2 part question.

I'm coinsidering 2 builds...

1) Custom body design, mahogany back and flame maple top with binding. It's a single cutaway design. This is my preference between the 2 build options.

OR

2) Korina Explorer copy (I have templates). I'm slightly less enthused about this option. But I suspect it will cost a great deal less and probably be easier to build.

Considering the cost of figured maple, and this being my first build (which I may butcher), I'm wondering if I should build an Explorer instead because the wood will cost less? I don't want to spend too much in case I ruin it. Any advice or suggestions?

Also, can anyone recommend a good affordable body blank supplier? I was quoted $175 for 1/4" AAA maple on mohogany from one supplier...pretty expensive compared to a basic Mahogany blank. I don't want to go with a thinner top for fear of sand-throughs.

Thanks!

I was trying to disassemble a Gotoh ABR-1 and I can't get the saddles and screws out of the bridge body. It's as if the screws are too long because the screw "collars" are hanging up on the bridge body when I try to pry them out. Help?

They is no "proper" position as such unless you are using a LP pickguard which is spaced to suit two pickups.

The closer to the bridge you go the more trebley the guitar will sound on the bridge pup.

It may be a case of positioning it so it has the same gap between pup and fingerboard and pup and bridge so it looks right aesthetically.

But isn't there a "better" position harmonically? I remember for a neck it's at the 24th fret...but I can't remember for the brige p'up.

I have a newer Gibby LP Jr that I want to rout for a bridge 'bucker. How do I locate the proper position for the pickup?

Nope, cloth rub did nothing.

Tried auto glaze (the most gentle of auto polishes) on the bottom of the plate. Like GuitarGuy said, it removed the black quickly and didn't make it look any better.

I don't know what this stuff is! Powdercoating would be more durable (heck I think paint would be too) but paint would respond much better to polish.

What the hizzy?!?!?!

First time working with black hardware--in this case a black StewMac fixed bridge...W is this stuff? Looks hazy and I need to clean and polish it up. Is is paint? Is it powdercoating? Is it something I don't even know about? What is it?

Bummer! Well...I guess I can pull out my trusty file again if needed.

I filed them down (again). Will sealing the neck prevent this from happeneing again? I tung oiled the neck last night.

Cheap Mighty Mite neck...thought I filed the tangs down flat. After not touching the neck for several months I find the tangs are hanging out the side of the neck (they could draw blood). What's the best way to address the issue?

I don't think the tangs grew back or anything, I just probably didn't do as good a job filing them down as I thought.

Cool! Found a relative with a thickness planer (he's in construction.)

First off...thanks to all for your advice.

Now--Decisions, decisions...

I guess a 2" body with some tone chambers would be nice. But I think I might prefer a standard thickness body. The edges on this particular body are not rounded. I intended to use this particular body because it's inexpensive and I don't have a band saw to cut my own.

For arguments sake, what tool (I assume some sort of plane?) would I use to shave the body thinner?

Perhaps now is a good time to consider purchasing a band saw. Can anyone reccomend a decent inexpensive band saw?

My question should have been: How is this usually addressed? In this case, is it normal practice to thin the body in an effort to get a total body thickness of 1 3/4", or do most apply the top as is and leave the body at 2"?

The body I'm looking at is unfinished, rough cut in a tele shape. It has no routing of any kind for controls, pickups, neck cavity etc. I haven't purchased this body as of yet. Is it easy to thin out or should I pursue a 1.5" body elsewhere?

I don't own a band saw (hence my preference for a rough cut body as opposed to a body blank)

Thanks,

Dave

Did a search, couldn't find an answer...(yes, I'm new to this)

I jumped at the opportunity to buy a quilt maple top (1/4" thick). My question is in regards to body thickness. I was planning to put this on a Telecaster body (standard 1 3/4" thick) which would make a 2" thick body. Is this how this is normally done? Is that too thick/heavy? Do people usually put 1/4" tops on 1 1/2" bodies?

I'd like to keep the body at 1 3/4", but not sure the best way to thin out the body.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

Any pics, Duff Beer Man?

uh...I prefer nollock's delivery method.

Started ordering parts and plans to build a 58 Explorer...hope I didn't bite off more than I can chew.

Wish me luck!