bob123

I've just never enjoyed tv yellow haha. I think a blonde finish or natural would smoke on that guitar, but I know those older gentlemen really love their tv yellow guitars xD That said, it will certainly not detract from the awesome work you've done, just simply a personal preference at this point

African

Phillipino

Her guitar

you were saying, Gandalf?

We have a lot of mylar film at work for radiation detectors (beta blockers), so I may have to... "procure" a peice to try it out on

I was just thinking, I know you can get colored mylars, a copper colored mylar top with black binding would look pretty sick if done correctly imo.

A clear coat will not damage the reflectivity. You just need to test to see if your clear sticks to polyester.

SR

Thanks, I know clearing over certain materials ruins the reflectivity of it, or can even damage it. Mylar is a strange material, so Im not sure how it will react. Guess theres only one way to find out I guess... Hoping someone here maybe has done something with it material wise.

Not phillipine,because that is not a mahogany and would put the seller at risk of fraud or whatever

"Genuine" mahogany can be very light and very light in color as well.I also have bought Honduran which was very light in color.If it is Honduran it will have black in the pores,that is the big giveaway

http://www.deanwood.com/genuine_mahogany_lumber.html

Right. A chinese company immune to our fraud and copyright laws who is selling counterfeit copies of guitars would NEVER dream of labeling phillipine mahogany as "true mahogany".

This "One peice mahogany body" MUST be honduras or african mahogany because they said so.

Yetzer, I appreciate your drawing. Im not understand the skunk stripe one however. Truss rods bend both ways, so wouldn't the force being exerted be pressed on JUST the skunk stripe if you're trying to get rid of string tension induced front bow? By that merit, then skunk stripe necks should offer the most resiliance to changes.

You also didn't draw out my "fix" for this idea (rotating the neck so the joint is horizontal), basically creating a perfectly matched, albeit large "fretboard"

Bob, how I've missed you and your crazy ideas! We can add this one to spraying WD40 on unfinished wood and the fiberglass neck mould, template, sanding block thingy!

Sure.

Mylar can come in some outrageous colors and reflectivity not afforded in paint. Any one know if you can clear coat over it wtihout damaging the reflectivity?

Seriously cool guitar man! Shame youre gonna color that tasty wood though :-/

Phillipine mahogany imo.

Looks like a fun project honestly. I've been gassing for an explore guitar for a long time, so Im looking forward to see this one completed.

Can you PM me some pics of that board please?

I had no idea these things were such an absolute pain in the ass! Hopefully I can make a 2nd one close enough to match well enough.

No.If the epoxy has a "rapid cure time"then it is not as strong..just consider it the rule of thumb for epoxy.24 hour cure is all you want.It gives it time to wick in to the wood and create a stronger bond.

5 minute epoxy is crap.Stay away from it.

Oh I figured that 6 hour stuff was pretty good, I've used it to glue in frets, but I guess frets dont really have the same types of stresses as the woods

Polyurethane glues do not gap fill with any strength. You have to make a tight joint for them to work properly. Then there is the whole wet thing....

T-88 is good stuff. I like it but sometimes it is too thick for some really tight grained exotic woods. I had a real mess with it last year and an ebony top.

Man if you search for glue on this forum you should get pages pages of hits.

Im aware haha. I know a few builders that use epoxy exclusively, and I know people that swear against it! Obviously a preference thing. I think the benefit is the rapid cure time of the epoxy vs the wood glue... I may be switching myself honestly.

Got some work done. Hate the "waiting game" part of builds. :Literally watching glue dry, not able to do more work is stressfull! haha.

For the "imagination impaired", got the headstock sanded flush and marked up some lines. The other side is being glued up, but its not glued in this picture (hence the slight gap)

Is epoxy stronger bond then wood glue?

i would be more inclined to agree, however, no matter how "exact" or "precise" a skunk stripe is, its still not a perfect fit, certainly not as much as 1 piece of wood sawed in half.

Getting rid of the truss rod all together would be ideal, and based on vigier's techniques with carbon, totally feasible, but still requires laminates and fretboards.

Newb

AND PROUD OF IT! haha, I ask questions to get answers. I don't think this process is revolutioinary nor a "good" idea, I just figured it would be something to try out some day.

i would be more inclined to agree, however, no matter how "exact" or "precise" a skunk stripe is, its still not a perfect fit, certainly not as much as 1 piece of wood sawed in half.

Getting rid of the truss rod all together would be ideal, and based on vigier's techniques with carbon, totally feasible, but still requires laminates and fretboards.

If you really want to do it, I'd make a plank w/ frets, string it up, & see how it goes

I may try it out.

Wes -> another thing to consider, look at fenders 1 peice necks with the skunk stripe! thats certainly less stable then my idea

Why?It seems to resolve no issues while creating a more complicated process.

Besides,neck laminations are always in odd numbers(1,3,5,etc) for a reason...to keep the truss rod off of a glueline.

For "Why?", simply to have a truly "one peice neck" No fretboard, very clean look imo, particularly thinking about flamed maple necks, or other interesting figures.

As far as the neck laminations being in odd numbers, thats not acccurate, sorry. Many G & L necks are two peice necks, with the piece simply split down the middle and flipped in half.

More work done, got the fretboard radiused, gonna ship it out to have it CNC slotted.

Neck cleaned up very nice, Im kinda shocked at how light this is. The whole guitar is going to be extremely light weight. Surprising to me, I was expecting the spalted maple wings toweigh a ton, but they really dont.

On b5 is the fret slot through the binding or is it gibson style?

Silly though crossed my mind.... This would allow you to use a guitar neck WITHOUT a fretboard. Bear with me here...

Picture should explain my thought process. My only concern would be having the truss rod applying pressure on the glue joint line, but thats not really a huge concern as multi peice necks have pressure along the glue joints themselves. Obviously using mahogany wouldn't work very well, but maple, wenge, other hard woods of that nature.

Doesnt help if your master template gets destroyed xD

Thats coming out great! Im glad you redid the threaded neck inserts. Im a huge fan of those myself, as long as they are done right

Since you zpoxied the body, I cant see tru oil taking 20 coats to get a gloss finish. Probably closer to 10 if that.

Your work is inspiring as usuall!