bob123

Holy crap....

how... did you get such a clean roundover??? Im impressed! I usually get some some "ruffling" when I do roundovers, hard to explain, but nothing that clean. I love it man, well done sir

if you decide to ship to america... me and you need to have a chat

Im not joking, thats only the SECOND neck through ive ever had GAS for....

Probably but it seems an overly large and complicated system for anybody that isn't building more than a few instruments. It is brute and perhaps a little ungraceful for my liking whether it works or not.

Working hard to make it easy

VERY nice build! Classy and elegant!

Good lord I want that tele.... NOW!

If you check Search you will find several builds similar and/or better, plus they tend to appear in build threads a lot. Too much flex in the centre for my liking.

I was thinking about that. Using 1/2" plywood doesnt seem to be the best option. Albeit expensive, would using metal (thinking steel legs, and aluminum supports) and lexan compensate for the instability?

What happened? Your last pic of the back looked very nice.

SR

nothing really, I just know I want this to be a high shine, glossy finish, and black just suits it really. The back is ok, but nothing to gawk at, so its not much of a shame to cover it up.

so basically this project will be assembled, and played out until spring time when I can paint her properly

OK gents, I decided on what Im gonna do. Im gonna do the back black. I want the wood showing, but its just too much of a pain to get everything "just right" there. this way I get a professional result without any more drama with the wood

I will be making one of these soon, but definitely something you may want to check out.

gorgeous!

the only thing that comes to my mind would get 2 strings to consistently NOT be able to get intonated is some problem with the nut - as already suggested. Maybe the slots on the locking nut are worn in some weird way making the final point of contact with the string move a little towards the headstock?

I don't think so, I've owned about 100 different ibanez guitars. the pads wear out long before the nut will. besides, the nut being too low would make intonation BETTER, albeit probly cause some buzzing. If it were moving forward as you're thinking thats still easily in the range of the floyd rose to intonate into.

This has been a big threads but very worth while. Here is my question:

Is it legal to sell templates to help guitar builders to make replicas of braded guitars including headstocks. For example copy routing templates made from MDF or plastic????

No that's not illegal. you're selling a product in an ambiguous legal gray area.

If you're talking about buying a template, then making copies from that to sell, then yes...

hmm, have you thought of a vertical shim? Instead of shimming the angle, put a peice of stock in the base of the neck pocket where the neck heel meets the vertical part. If he's swapping necks a lot, it could be very possible stuff is simply worn out and needs more room. May seem silly and nonsensical to even suggest, but I'd check the exact scale length with a high quality straight edge, make sure everything is lined up as it should be. If its not, you can find out pretty easily at which part its "wrong".

If they are epoxying the hole, it may be worth while to dowel and redrill it anyway!

Impressive like always. I can imagine it only looks even more incredible in person!

Is it possible the bridge posts are being pulled out of alignment? I've seen taht before, not common, but I had a 540r that had a bridge post pull "forward", and it wouldnt intonate. I just wound up doweling it with some oversize maple and redrilled the whole, worked fine after that...

Ironically, its the same shade, I didn't dillute it any different. I dunno, maybe I didn't mix the bottle correctly last time or something, I dunno. Glad y'all like it, I'm thrilled with the color!

As for wd40, I stand bty what I said earlier. Its mostly petroleum distillates, same type as naptha or mineral oil, both of which are commonly used in wood working. It doesn't penetrate wood, and if you don't believe me, try it out on a scrap piece. It wipes off with some thinner or alcohol, leaving a clean, dry surface. I would never spray it before a finish, that's just silly, but it does come off and leaves no residue... believe it or not, doesn't matter. I will agree with the "wait for the finish"statements though.

O.o that would look so killer with a candy red burst!

**** this is great idea, thanks wes, I will be using that guy

Ya know what I have an engraved neck plate I think I got from him, if so, high quality stuff man.

Well, this top is made of flooring too Few peices, not 18 or anything, but definitely more then 1

Hey, the ONLY red I've found thats even CLOSE is "Signal Red". A few companies make itm, but its up to you to find it. Ofc it will need to be sprayed thin over a white basecoat in multiple passes.

I have tried RFR, and I fail miserably, I hope you have better luck then I do.

this is signal red btw

It's an option I will explore, but......

The finish has shrunk back into the grain of the spruce a bit, so I'm a little worried that buffing it out might leave the only truly level spot on the top.

SR

gotcha, Im sorry, I missed that bit lol.

Well if it helps, Ibanez uses polyester resin for paint.

Have you thought about micro meshing it?

thanks guys!

Ok, I wasnt happy with the pink-ness, I wanted PURPLE. So I redid it. Been working a lot so I havent been able to do much lately, but here we go.

The color is more even then my unforgiving camera suggests.

If the scratch isn't through the clear, why do you even need to drop fill? Sand it out and buff it.... same as a car.