bob123

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the body is alder

same difference really. multi piece body especially, unless you want glue lines to show through paint

body appears to be ash, so you definitely want some sealer on it.

I wouldn't use a wipe on finish, as it will look like crap due to the wood and glue and epoxy stains. IF you want to go cheap, by some epoxy spray paint from lowes. Nice solid finish and cheap.

blazers are great necks, treat it well

Selling blanks to interested buyers, more catered to the people that don't have the tools to get blanks together easily, or people that don't like it. I will be creating some online business accounts to get this going. I have a large amount of wood available, and simply wont even begin to use it all... Prefer CONUS sales! Buyer will pay all shipping charges! PAY PAL, MONEY ORDER, CHECKS (American only!) accepted.

GUARANTEED NO VISIBLE GLUE JOINTS, ALL WOOD IS KILN DRIED BETWEEN 6-9% HUMIDITY

Mix and match availability, ask and you shall receive ->

Wood available for bodies ->

2 peice book matched curly figured ash, no single piece available

2 peice flamed maple (up to 1" thick) 2A-4A grade upon finishing.

Walnut 1.5" thick, usually 2 piece bodies/tops

crotch walnut figured, inquire for sizes

I.e. you want a flamed maple top on ash body, I cut it and shape to size you desire, can do up to 14"x25" on most pieces.

Neck blanks (will make sizes to what you desire, for 6, 7+ string necks) ->

flamed rock maple, 3A-5A

ARTIST GRADE + flame maple neck blank (long enough to do neck throughs, limited quanity available, no discount on these pieces due to their nature)

walnut

honey locust (great wood for necks and fretboards)

jatoba

tigerwood/goncalo alves

Can shape to any size you desire, 1-xxx peice necks.

I can make fretboards of the same woods, will be same price as neck, because you will be buying two at a time.

Pricing will be dependent entirely on woods used (thickness and length), and deep discounts for multiple purchases. Repeat buyers will receive discounts on future orders. I WILL price BELOW anyone else!

Simply respond here, or send me a private message if interested. Turn around time will be very quick, usually a day or two, shipped out the next business day after verification of straightness, strength, and clean lines.

Small sample of available woods (pieces are dry, with the exception of walnut) :

Tear out can be due to operator error, but dull bits never help that. With burning while cutting, that's usually indicative of the blade being dull.

Realized I want a tool that doesnt exist. A very small, handheld power sander. Thinking 1-2" discs Very small and light, used for detail sanding work in tight areas that block sanding will take too long to do, and more accurate then a dremel disk. That said, I DO have a few spare dremels in my shop, I'll take one apart and see what I can come up with.

Well, I consider this a "good run" haha

16 blanks of 3.5" x 10" x 25" ash. Gonna bookmatch them and glue em up.

4 blanks of 1.5" x 8" x 48" honey locust for necks

6 blanks of same size flame maple blanks for necks

6 blanks of 1" by 7" x 25" blanks of flame maple to bookmatch top

1 blank of highly figured walnut to bookmatch, about 1 3/4" thick, 7" wide, gave me the spare end of walnut free, perhaps stringers for a neck...

2 blanks of ridiculous spalted maple! its 2" thick, and has a high amount of spalt all the way through the board!

3 blanks of 3.5" x 10" x 25" elm wood, same deal as the ash (looks and feels similar?)

The lot :

Curly maple, keep in mind this is rough cut with a CHAINSAW

Walnut :

I cant figure out why Im so bad with my camera, but its not showing all the spalting.... trust me, its there, I'll get some better pictures in the sunlight tomorrow

ALLL the way through!

I just realized why I like the design so much... its very perfectly designed from an ergonomical standpoint. The hand fit would be ideal, and the top shape presents a visual balance.

Going to go pick up some lumber today... should be interesting!

Got an idea of what you're off to get or are you going to see when you get there? I am hoping to acquire a load of white Oak soon to make a finely worked bed. Hopefully I can get this done cheaply via my place of study, get a discount and a load of nice toy lumber to boot!

Sure do ->

Honey locust for necks

curly maple for tops, necks, fretboards

Figured walnut

spalted maple for tops

ash, lots and lots of ash...

tulipwood

whatever suprises he has...

small lumber supplier does his main work clearing farm lands and tree removal, and then he's smart, instead of chopping it up for firewood, he bought a 25,000$ machine to split and cut the wood into. I buy as much as possible when he has good stuff, because he sells to me for .50-1.50 a board foot.

good luck on the oak, I love working with it, and its such an under rated beauty imo.

Going to go pick up some lumber today... should be interesting!

Rad thats hilarious lol

Its probably a 2 peice body with a veneer cap for the top shape. LOTS of companies do that, even for their some of their more expensive models (ESP and Schecter do for sure).

Sand it down, see what its made of in my opinion. Better to learn on 60 pounds then 600+, no?

If that winds up not being what you want, or takes too long, get some pumice and grain fill with it. Works great for open grained woods!

You can get pumice at lowes or home depot very cheap.

I can't say thats necessarily accurate demon, one of my suppliers (a MAJOR wood supplier for the midwest) has a large stock of "ambrosia". Im never a fan of spalted/burled maples so I never bother to look. You may be correct at the name origination, but its more common of a name then a regional growth pattern most likely.

I swear, something must have "clicked" in my head, this is going much faster and smoother then my previous attempts! My axis guitar is almost finished, I just gotta assemble it, but in the mean time... Got a seemingly large amount of work done today, but it didnt take me very long... LOTS of work shaping the body, hard maple is so ridiculously difficult to shape accurately , I keep getting "bumps" or whatever even though im block sanding! But its coming out well, and Im about done with shaping part. Got the neck pocket routed out, and about done shaping the heel, but I still have some work to do obviously.

With neck attached:

JUST KIDDING.... Im sure somehow steve vai started crying....

anyway, the black isnt a gap its black dye, I'll get some better pictures tomorrow.

Heel is coming out exactly how I imagined it. AANJ + more mass + ergonomic = better? Still have some straightening out to do, but its coming along swimmingly. As a personal preference, every guitar I make and modify introduces the clooney scoop I dont know why its not standard on EVERY guitar, its not "uglier" and feels soooo much better then a squared up block of wood.... Is it trademarked or something?

With neck attached, again, the black is dye, not gaps lol

How do you tigthen the tuner nuts, when they are recessed like that? I did that on my recent guitar because they werent long enough, but now i cant tighten them.

Check out some thin wall sockets, they should work really well in that kinda thing. That said, some needle nose pliers and a lot of care would work well too.

Interesting design. Body shape is les paul meets tele meets axis. Cool headstock design, but Im not sure it meshes well visually for me. Guess we shall see when its all together

Every time I do a search on older topics, the pages dont load for me. Not sure what the deal is with that one.

The reason I ask, I was having a converastion with dave thomas mcnaught, he wont say WHY, but he said he only uses epoxy to glue, never wood glue.

Lets see a picture of this wood

Strats (fender's in particular) seem to ALWAYS be hit or miss with me. Everything from the squier up to the custom shops I've played were either REALLY good, or "meh". I own 3 Fenders, a 94 40th anniversary (my baby), a 2002 american standard, and a 50th anniversary squier (which is just as good as my other two). My POINT is that you should really have it in your hand and let the guitar choose for you.

Other kickass guitars I would recommend trying since you come from the ibanez family (im an ibanez spam haha)

- Peavey Limited (tough to find in S/S/S, but they are AWESOME!)

- Peavey Wolfgang Standard (HUGE sound)

- EBMM Axis

- EBMM Silo S/S/S

- Ibanez JS1000 (older ones), these have a very vintage feel.

Ouch. Maple screws my lungs up pretty badly so I am hoping you are ok.

I'm allright now, but it felt like I had shards in my lungs earlier lol

Not a "build" update, but I want to take the time to remind everyone...

GET A DAMN RESPIRATOR!!!

I forgot to wear mine today, and boy Im paying for it now

Ok, didn't know if there was a stigma against epoxy or not. I don't see myself using epoxy, but just wondering why some people would use it vs normal wood glue.

I like your heel joint man, functional and strong.

We'll see on the inlay! Id LOVE to do that, Im just not positive of my inlay abilities yet I have some spare bits of super figured walnut that would just be killer though...

anywho, working on shaping the body. I gotta build the jig for the fretting, so Im waiting on that to work more on the neck (not much left to do really).

I can't believe how much of a pain the arse this was to do... Figured just sanding it down a little bit, good to go. NOPE, it was uneven and looked like crap, so I took a sanding block went to town. After about 45 minutes of that (hard maple ) I went at it with a scraper which got it looking real nice! BTW, I ALWAYS dye everything black so I now where Im working and I can see hard lines if I need them. To make the line solid and crisp (it is, the picture isnt very good), I took a block and clamped in the body at the right angle to get a solid line to run the scraper against. Worked real well!

And with the back contour, I was pretty shocked when the figure jumped out at me lol With luck, the flame will go through the whole board That said, this side was exactly as I had expected it to be, nice and easy. Same deal, went at it with power sander, block sanded, then used the scraper to get it going right.