bob123

After seeing prosthetas work with that bass, I really really loved the look of it. The oak just seemed very classy for some reason, so I figured I'll give it a go.

Came across this peice of oak, that has a terrific and different grain pattern. Not super figured, but has some very lovely chatoyance. Im very curious how it will appear under a finish.

obviously, being a wolfgang, she needs a figured maple top. How about a good flame

using flame maple and quarter sawn oak middle strip for the neck. Im debating using ebony or walnut strips aside the neck for more separation from the body. Thoughts??

12 clamps should be good right? I actually am trying something different here. Using wax paper and a cauled peice clamped down on the ends with another clamp in the middle. Hopefully it will glue perfectly level, leaving me more room to work with, with minimal planer work.

Right on. I used to work for my grandpa who was a master mechanic, owned a huge auto body shop. Lot of similar work for sure.

Rich at ibanezrules.com can hook you up with ibanez parts. Hes pretty good with international stuff.

Binding or bursting this one?

This should be interesting. Its kind of a strange take on EBMM's "tone block" idea lol.

I actually set a timer for sanding. When i get over 120 grit, i do 45 minutes with each grit up to 320.

Do you mean 45 minutes with each grit, or a 45 minute span with all the grits up to 320? 45 minutes with each grit is insane...

I know its xcompletely overkill. My problem is that im pretty impatient. By setting a timer, i can justturn music on, grab a beer and relax. Its not too much more time, 45 on 180, 45 on 220 and 45 on 320. Its just a method I use to get things done properly. Best way? No sir. But it works for me!

Demon, what are this guys qualifications with wood working? May be an investment on your end to train him to use the orbital properly? Just shooting ideas out here.

Is that to the burl, or hte mahogany?

yes.

He may be trying too hard. Have a talk with him about expectations and results. I

He may simply be trying to gain your respect, and is taking his time to do it above and beyond what is necessary, vice filching the clock.

Thats all hypothetical of course.

I actually set a timer for sanding. When i get over 120 grit, i do 45 minutes with each grit up to 320.

Wow!

I really like the carve on the volute. Very unique and looks incredibly well done

Bobs post really made me think on the neck most people are more likely to buy a neck and build a body around that. Some thing that might be interesting is to buy a neck and show what is needed to do a scale change if its possible on that body

Thats precisely WHY he should do a neck tutorial. People are so fearless with bodies. When it comes to necks, people are so gunshy "oh its so difficult, I cant do it". People don't really understand its just a couple pieces of wood glued together and some precision holes. Fretwork comes with time, getting someone the courage to start it is pretty important.

I cant tell, is that an actual top or a veneer (ala prs se style)? If its a veneer, that would affect your refinish options, no? Guess you could be uber careful and not sand through it all the way.

Suggestions ->

- making a neck is cool, perhaps using a premade fretboard (stew mac sells em pretty cheap), and focusing on the structural parts.

- showing how to do a scarf joint properly if you wanna go that route would be very informative.

- I would pass on the floyd honestly. Perhaps a 2 point wilkinson style trem would be cool. Its a great upgrade to a lot of guitars, and more accessible then a floyd rose.

- I've done a ton of tutorials on ball ended frets... everyone loves em, but no one seems to care about doing it lol. I would suggest focusing on the basics, and showing that as an "option" more then focusing an entire tutorial on it.

- wiring is one of those things that people rely on schematics too mcuh for simple things. Explaining the exact process of why the wires go where they go is kind of one of those "teach a man to fish, feed him for a lifetime" thing. Understanding the wiring will help a lot of people avoid mistakes and streamline their processes. It would also help them make their own schematics and figuring stuff out would be easier.

all depends on how in depth you wanna go I suppose.

Paisley amp haha, thats pretty awful, sorry haha.

Keep it up.

Curious, with the recessed tuners, is it more difficult to get the string in? Is there a particular reason for doing recessed tuners? Im pretty in the dark with those. Im assuming its for correct string angle and tension behind the nut without the use of staggered tuners and no string trees, but does it provide a lot of benefit?

I like the contrast of the middle piece. Classy.

Fwiw, i currently own two guitars with khalers. Its mostly a feel thing for me. Totally su jective of course, the benefits are nice, but i always feel like im fighting these things.

When i use steel wool, i will hold a magnet inside the wool. It keeps it together with no mess.

For polishing, you can use a rotary tool with buffing pads and a nice metal polish. Works unbelievably well, but defi itely leaves a mess!

Right on. Id still suggest trying out the cat urethane. It dries rock hard in a few hours and buffs out really well. Im in michigan, and we have some wonky weather, and it never seemed to matter. Its easy to spray and cleans well if you do it right away.

It is a bit pricey, but a little bit goes a long way here. 2 coats has been plenty, i guess 3 if you really wanna go all out. 3 full guitars, and 3 extra bodies, and ive probably thrown about half of it away too.

Oh,we are judging finish quality on price now?

Kea,I don't know if polyester is the answer for you.Maybe the climate where you are plays havoc with what you are using.As you know,I have had good luck with the same conversion varnish you use,though it can be tricky.Your work is good though,so maybe these headaches are just par for the course unless you want to go to wiping on finishes or the like.

If you want to compare your knowledge to a guy that's been painting cars longer then you've been alive, then we can have this conversation if you want.

Yes, price matters. If you dont think so, feel free to google search "cheap clear coats" and see the results. If its all the same, why not use the 5$ can from walmart wes?

edit: PPG is a highly regarded paint. If you're skimping on the last stage, expecting great results, you're probably bound for failure. This isn't me being a brat, its pretty much a universal constant. I did my research and took the sage advice from an old master mechanic who's painted more entire cars then you or I will ever paint guitar wise. These aren't my words, they are his. I don't normally hold gospel to one persons critique so I did my research. Turns out when you use cheap paints, they have their own sets of problems. Either they don't dry properly (which is what KEA is having issues with turns out), they yellow fast, or they simply dont hold up for very long. I would figure someone with your experience would be able to understand this.

Also, if everything is the same, why use zpoxy or west systems? Why not get the tube of quick set epoxy from walmart? Should be the same thing right?

55 bucks a gallon may be why you were having problems. I had an auto body guy talk to me about clears, and he recommended this as the cheapest product to get. He said anything lower and you're bound to run into problems. The catalyst was also more expensive then the paint, are you sure you're getting the right stuff??? edit : when I said 100 bucks, I meant the paint AND the catalyst for the quart, sorry if there is some confusion there.

I've painted 6 bodies and 3 necks with this amount of paint. Still have 2/3rds of a can left... edit: I've also never needed more then a mist coat and then a medium build coat on top. 3-4 coats isn't required with this stuff for enough wiggle room to wetsand and polish.

Thanks for the replies.

Doug, i found that site, but how do you order it? There is no option for that and no dealers listed.

Bob,

I have used 2k finishes, and some just dont cure on wood or on wood sealer. Plus they are quite expensive, usually around 55 bucks a quart.

I kinda figured they would be intensely dangerous.

Right now, my finish of choice is catalyzed urethane, but yes its foul stuff. I spray outside in a makeshift tent, and its pretty evil still.

I've never had an issue with sealers, but I only use shellac, so that may be why perhaps. Pricey indeed, with the catalyst, my stuff costs almost 100$ for a quart. That said on a guitar, a quart goes a LONG way haha. Worth the money imo.

I know surf shops carry this stuff some times. May be worth looking around in that area. I've tried polyester resin once, and basically it kept coming out like crap. I used weight measurments, used a syringe, mixed it until my arms bled, double cupped it, sprayed, brushed... no matter what I did, it never cured. Prepare for some headache until you figure it out I guess. I've had much more luck with other 2k finishes.

Wish my dad had some nut files haha,

Next time I have something go wrong with one of my projects, Im blaming it on your top Scott. Don't care it if its not even related, Im still gonna do it!

She looks good, a bit quirky, but at least shes unique and what you want. Id love to play her some time, bet she has some aretha going on inside.

Christ I was thinking this unit

Good call, didn't know the TOM's were "gibraltars" as well. disregard I suppose, although I think the palm muting issue may be still similar.

For the price its a solid, reliable unit. The aesthetics are nice as well, nice and chunky with an appealing design. That said, i find it to not be the most comfortable of units, and if you palm mute a lot, its kind of irritating.

Also, thGibraltars have a unique string position and bolt pattern. If you get it and dont like it, youre kind of screwed, sorry.

Im a huge hipshot fan, and thats what id suggest honestly, but its totally up to you.