bob123
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Posts posted by bob123
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True that mike! Buddy of mine owns a jupiter and its impossibly light! Its so big but it just worksergonomically and lt looks amazing in person.
What kind of finish... i have asuggestion if youre willing to hear it haha
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Id pass on the geiger counter. One good knock on the guitar and the ionization chamber gets damaged, and then it becomes an expensive paper weight. Cool ideas, the slide pot and key are pretty freaking cool ideas.
Also, a good idea for "aging" parts and wood... cut open a couple d cell batteries and put that mess where you want wear and fatigue looking stuff.
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I dont think you get what i am saying.
I am saying, i think a guitar with a higher bridge and more neck angle eliminates fret buzz compared to low neck angle and low bridge.
A low bridge with low neck angle, when you fret, it pushes the whole string down almost flat across all the frets at the same time.
with steeper neck angle and higher bridge, It creates more of a "v" shape wiht the string where it is fretted. Having the string blelow where it is fretted being higher, clearing the fret above it more, thus allowing lower action and less fret buzz.
The strings should ALWAYS be relatively parallel to the fretboard, neck angle or no neck angle. Any perceived difference should be your comfort handling an angled neck. I personally hate angled necks, because of the feel difference. Its possible in your later builds your fretwork and building has gotten better, and thats why it plays better. The neck angle shouldn't matter for fretting action, keeping everything else constant. IF your strings are indeed higher, then your action can not be lower unless your frets are taller.
To make this point further, take a close up side picture of both your angled and non angled guitar necks. Compare them. I am willing to bet they look pretty damn similar.
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I LOVE ritters! Please do it justice!
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Just curious, you say you're using a squeegee. I've seen this method as well, and it's NEVER worked for me. Have you tried using a razor blade? I've had good results with epoxy + ash using a razor blade and z-poxy.
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The art in CNC lies with design and execution. At the extremes it may seem un-craftsmanlike, yes. Both approaches have their positives. CNC to me is geometric accuracy, repeatability and consistency. It benefits from a craftsman's finishing hands in many instances.
Well said.
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Ugh this guy... -.-
Anyway, some of these are cool, but a lot of these are inherently dangerous. Mostly due to balancing concerns. "But bob, all power tools are dangerous". Just be careful if you proceed down these paths; all I ask...
some of his jigs are incredible though. The "pantorouter" machine being a personal favorite of mine.
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I have decided to use everyones suggestions!
So I am building a nice work bench. I don't have a good setup and work bench (usually just use kitchen table), so Im gonna be building a solid desk, with many coves for parts and setup equipment. By doing it myself, I can modify things to fit my use. I.e. I will be making a bridge drawer! Slots for floyds and strat style bridges mostly what I need. Also a tuner organization drawer, and a slide out pickup "library"
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Seems tusq's are pretty prudent around here. Anyone dabble with... "off kilter" materials? I am curious about doing a glass nut or something like that.
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said it before, I'm gonna say uit again. I LOVE your "no nonsense" cavities.
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I have a nice set of drawers for parts, just need good organizational separators as they just empty. I want a jewelry box simply for aesthetic purposes, maybe its time to build what i need
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Cool, good info thanks
The EMG covers do not have base plates. They are like a bucket for the pickup. After dropping the pickup bits in the bucket you fill it with epoxy to hold it all together (hopefully).Ah, whats the epoxy for? Stuck to the wax ok?
EMG just uses epoxy. If they break that is it. No digging them out.
I use the wax initially as a way to protect them so I can maybe pop them out later. Also protects the wires from breaking as the epoxy cures.
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Whats up with those pickups?
Do you mean what are they?
They are 53mm Blade pickups, vintage style wind with Heavy Formvar 42Awg powered with an Alnico 8 magnet in an EMG housing. Potted heavily in wax before encasing them in red epoxy.
Pro is going to use them in his RD copy. I still owe him another set with chrome covers
Ah, whats the epoxy for? Stuck to the wax ok?
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Are you painting that? If so, how come you dont veneer a solid piece over top? Simply for $ reasons?
Edit: opaque, solid colors i mean.
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Whats up with those pickups?
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Great ideas all around. I love yhat afjustable tackle box idea. I see those types of containers, but usually they are either too massive or too small to be usable lol.
Ill also check out those kennedy tool chests.
Any good ideas for storing floyds and other bridges? Open box design seems the bad way to go with these things lol
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I got wood storage figured out, that was simple enough. Tool storage? piece of cake...
PARTS.
How do you guys store parts? I have parts from 50-60 gutted guitars (not exaggerating, accumulated over time and its getting out of hand), and Im quite unsure what to do with them lol. Organization and tasteful ness are key here. I was thinking some kind of fancy jewelry box converted to use for holding parts? I know a lot of you guys just buy em as you need em kinda thing, so Im hoping someone here has my same hording problem.
As usual, thanks in advance.
edit:
I don't want cheap plastic bins, although I may for screws.
I want a safe secure place for some of these things. I have about 30 relatively high value bridges that I dont want clanking around o each other, tuners I would like to keep as "sets" instead of in a drawer, etc etc. Painful I know...
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Any particular reason you are gunning for maple? Your location is pretty prime for european, african, and asian hardwoods! Balau, Wenge, A neck made of iroko would be astounding haha.
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un-****ing-believable...
Too much seriousness in luthiery land...
I about lost it when I read "I can guarantee that with a conventional ruler you will not be getting my scale length correct."
I think he's saying that he's developed a completely new form of linear measurement (seeing as how the wonderful thing about rulers is that they are standardized and conventional).
We call it the "eye ball method". Should work out, right?
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PRS inlays are perfect, Gibsons are ****.
And, your hand guided chisel does exactly what you tell it to also.
The only people who complain about CNC's, are those that dont have one working for them.
lol maybe if gibson didnt have the sub-par Indian's do their inlay work, that probably wouldn't have been a problem. Probably better now though.
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Jem 77
I think I can get one for you, gimme a bit.
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Another thing that comes to mind is how would the pickups be replaced or swapped out? There doesn't seem to be a way to remove them once installed.
The intonation must be dreadful and I just noticed the placement of the pickup selector switch and volume control. There's no way you can have the selector in the neck position and not hit it while playing.
The concept is interesting but it needs more work IMO.
I saw the same thing, but the black one is intonated... Wonder how he did that? O.o
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For zero frets, do you guys use stainless steel? Or just normal fret wire that matches?
I love zero frets... but the general public doesnt for some reason.
For actual nut material, i love corian.
Why corian for you?
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It's only as accurate as the design and programmers ability to work with it. Compare Gibson and PRS inlays for an example.
PRS doesn't do their own inlay work, not sure what you're comparing between the two though O.o. If you're using the machine, its up to you to learn it properly or send it off to someone who will do it right. Its still 99.99% accurate, does EXACTLY what you tell it to lol.
2K Clear Coat
in Inlays and Finishing Chat
Posted
I've been dabbling with 2k clears lately, and my favorite part is how it cures fast. If yours is still "tacky" or "gummy" I would be willing to guess you may have not mixed it properly? That or there was an inclusion (moisture, or otherwise)?
If it does wind up curing properly, those lines should disappear when you cut and buff.