bob123

I think it looks great scott. It kind of flows together with the headstock. I think you made to right choice

For sure, making a new headstock is certainly a difficult task. Making a new headstock that is BOTH appealing AND usable AND hasn't been done before... well, I wish you luck sir!

That's not the point though. A Yamaha Pacifica headstock (for example) is derived from the Fender Strat style. It doesn't mean that a headstock which highly resembles it can be defended by saying they are both Stratish

Well, we can agree to disagree on this one. They both clearly use the same inspiration off of PRS, so to compare them to each other seems silly to me, especially with the clear differences in style (Serp is ADDING material, ormsby is REMOVING). That said, it is what is at this point, I don't feel like this was anything malicious or foul minded. I just don't feel its fair to call this guy a "rip off" of ormsby is all.

I'm all for people selling their builds and all, but how is this not an outright copy of an Ormsby?

Sully

I mean... cmon...

http://a4.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/116/1347db8d01024971b1302369a8f3ef75/l.jpg

Vs

http://www.obmart.com/images/MickEquipment/PRSArtistHeadstock.jpg

That aside, the build is looking sick!

That headstock is SERIOUSLY cool! Simple, yet great ideas here...

It does not need CITES to my knowledge. Brazilian mohog is just big leaf mohog (commonly called Honduran) grown in Brazil. I believe the stuff FROM HONDURAS needs papers. But not brazil... I pick that up paperless from my local yard on the regular.

It's good mohog, especially if it's aged... But it's no holy grail find... Your local lumber yard probably has some.

Chris

Well this is good information! Thank you! The whole cites thing confuses me, as its listed as a "ii" level protection, but I dunno whats what. So the country of origin is what matters, not the actual wood it seems.

As far as being a "holy grail" find, I wasn't expecting that, however, the sheer amount of wood is the grail it seems

So, my grandfather "knows a guy" and he used to make acoustic guitars for gibson "back in the day". This old man has STACKS of brazlian mahogany for backs and sides that he is going to give me. My "concern" is legitimizing it, and what kind of value this wood would have? I can't find much information on the matter, and was hoping someone here would have a clue or could at least point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.

edit: do I even NEED cites certification?

Dude that looks sweet! Still love it!

For a baseline, I looked at the distance from the B-string saddle (at the contact point) to the near edge of the pickup.

You need to read better.

*sigh. All guitars intonate differently. My point was for him to affirm that, yes, it was indeed from the saddle and not the actual scale position. With guitars intonated differently, this pretty much voids his numbers from being "concrete". I have most of his guitars that he's measuring, and my numbers are pretty consistently similar, where his are jumping all over the place.

Can you show me a side by side pick of the AT100 and RT150 please? I was pretty confident AT's, RT's, and RG's (minus the 2 extra frets) could interchange pickguards (as long as the same neck pocket style).

And to clarify, you're measuring from the end of the saddle where you have intonated, and not the actual pivot point?

Cool man. That's definitely way under budget and what I want. Shame I gotta wait till june though!

I was hoping theyd have something around chicago so I could "try and buy" type thing, but they only have four locations in the US lol.

They have 4 "showrooms", but nothing even close to where I live.

I don't understand why the anniversary models are cheaper then the normal models. Is it missing anything the "normal" models have?

That's prbly what I will go with. Ill look around for a local vendor. Thanks guys.

I ordered that book. Seems a prudent investment no matter WHICH bandsaw I choose...

Hey scott. Yeah took a t square to it. Two frets are "off". The 14th and 22nd. However the 14th is off about the width of the fret slot itself, should be totally fine when I fret it. The 22nd fret is off pretty bad but its on the bass side, which I never play anyway. if other slots look off, its just the wood grain/angle of pic I guess. I'm gonna tweak my miter box some more to add a jig to keep it perfectly parallel.

edit: odd, in that picture the 19th fret looks very much off, but it was fine when I t squared it O.o I'll go double check that one...

That andy timmons model has a vintage style trem. The distance is actually the same considering the extra metal. roughly 1/2". Same as the rg series.

I love that top dude, very nice and clean too.

Got some good work done in the past couple days. Tweaked my fret saw miter box design a little. Used a lexan saw guide as a separate piece so I could tweak the location of the saw blade to an exact spot. Once I got that sorted, I made a lexan template piece because that rosewood board was on its last limbs. In fact, when I pulled it off the lexan it snapped in two, so Im glad I did it now haha.

Once I got that finished (that actually took quite a long time to sort out), I did some other stuff, found a wood worm growing in a peice of honey locust I was cutting for another neck haha. Kinda surprised me, but I thought it was neat.

And I finally grew some balls to do my own fret slotting. I am quite pleased with the result. Its not CNC perfect, but its definitely where it needs to be. I just eyeballed the depth, and I did a really good job on that, only one fret went obviously too deep, but its still not even that bad. Then I decided to do my side dots. Had some bamboo kabob skewers so I figured what the hell. Came out pretty nice, although the bamboo absorbed some of the jatoba dust so its not as "contrasty" as I would like it to be, but it still gets the job done. I didn't get perfect alignment of the holes, but its fine for now. Looks good in person, but I will probably find some way to make some kind of jig to do this better in the future.

Oh ffs... for starters, that 699 was meant to be 600, typo.

Im not a multi millionaire wes, I tend to take my several hundred dollar expenses a little more then a casual "Oh ok 1 person recommended it, I should get it". I'm also looking at reviews online, asking other woodworking forums, and emailing luthiers. Just because this is what you see, doesn't mean this is all I am doing.

Heres the damage. If you would take a deep breath, this is NOT the kind of damage you're thinking of. Even I know this wouldn't have any effect on the bandsaw performance. The stand was bolted to the ground and didn't topple over. As you said, its worth about half, and I wouldn't offer the 600 for it. The saw itself is brand new and hasn't been mounted to the stand yet.

You're kind of an asshole, aren'tcha Bob?

You're kind of immature, aren'tcha Firefly? Sorry, Im not an old man desperate for female attention. If you want my respect, don't post like a child.

Your respect might not be that valuable and it is somewhat arrogant to presume so.

Intrinsic respect is what keeps the world running. My respect should matter as much as yours. That said, not going to debate this. She was rude as hell, and I called her out on it. Not much else to say.

This is getting a little more ... drawn out then I cared for hahaha.

Can I ask a question then? Ignoring ALL prior posts, starting from scratch... why does G & L use the truss rods in this manner? This isn't to "prove a point", this is an honest question at this point. Seems like everyone has their "nuance" to put on guitars, perhaps its more of a "signature" at that point?

Droptop -> I concur, but don't worry about these two hahaha. I like to ask a lot of dumb questions, they tend to put me on the right path more often then not. Wes's delivery leaves a little to be desired at some points, but nothing I can't handle

You're kind of an asshole, aren'tcha Bob?

You're kind of immature, aren'tcha Firefly? Sorry, Im not an old man desperate for female attention. If you want my respect, don't post like a child.

EDIT:

This is the model being sold around me. Apparently it got hit by a fork lift, but functions perfectly. They are asking 699, and comes with 3 blades and all accessories. (I'll find out what blades).

http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/2064011/26153/JET-14-DELUXE-PRO-BANDSAW-MODEL-JWBS14DXPRO.ASPX?refcode=10INGOPB&gclid=CMu0jovG9rYCFQNlMgod-QoAew

Would I be better with a NEW grizzly, or using something like this?

Let's start over, eh? Not sure what your misunderstanding or face palming about here, but here's what you're asking for.

Why - to get an exact route. Removing less wood, allowing the truss rod to be more reactive and sensitive. Some will claim tone should improve due to both less wood removed and a more exact route allows the rod to be more integral.

Work involved - still able to attach fretboard if wished. No more work then installing a normal truss rod. Less work then a skunk stripe.

Cons - only available on a bolt on or set neck style. Requires accurate and precise routing to be made as intended. If you don't use a fret board, you can't use softer woods like mahagony.

Okay, so let's see here. You want a truss rod now? I'll pull the Wikipedia classic citation query here.

>Some will claim tone should improve

Who?

Holy crap. Please read the title of the thread... if you guys are going to be blind to what I write, why do you even bother to post?

Who? Probably these people.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/169087-rattling-truss-rod-how-hard-fix.html

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Setup/BuzzDiagnosis/TrussRod/trussrod.html

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/fix-truss-rod-rattle-243506/

http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148199

http://forums.fender.com/viewtopic.php?p=528075

http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Electric-Guitars/Rattling-Truss-Rod-Help/td-p/30656854

Dpm, thanks for the suggestion. I was thinking 1hp should be enough for my uses, but with horsepower, more is more . I'm in no real rush, ill see if I can find something like that used to save a few bucks if I can. I can stretch my budget a little if I find the "right buy" for sure.

Let's start over, eh? Not sure what your misunderstanding or face palming about here, but here's what you're asking for.

Why - to get an exact route. Removing less wood, allowing the truss rod to be more reactive and sensitive. Some will claim tone should improve due to both less wood removed and a more exact route allows the rod to be more integral.

Work involved - still able to attach fretboard if wished. No more work then installing a normal truss rod. Less work then a skunk stripe.

Cons - only available on a bolt on or set neck style. Requires accurate and precise routing to be made as intended. If you don't use a fret board, you can't use softer woods like mahagony.

Christ you guys are jumpy today.

You can't use mahogany, because the wood isn't stiff enough to fret. I've played enough les pauls and prsi to know you can make the damn neck out it...

I'm also not going to provide an entire engineering proprosal to a board of woodworkers. This is supposed to be a discussion based forum. People propose idreas, and they are intended to be discussed. I'm sorry I don't take "nope, its been done this way since 1921" as a valid answer. That's an asinine thought process, wed still be in the dark ages if that was constant

Another thing you guys fail to understand (apparently) is people are already doing some of my ideas in some form or fashion. I had no idea g & l do truss rods like this before I made this thread. If my idea is so piss poor, why are some of the highest regarded guitars on the planet using it? Food for thought imo.

Hmm, a gently used bandsaw that costs 1000 new, can be delivered to my house AND haggled in price. Its also more powerful, has a closed stand and will come with replacement blades.

Where exactly is my thinking flawed here?