zyonsdream

It's being delivered Monday morning to it's owner and i'm sure they'll put something together with it monday night. I'll get a copy of it and post a link.

I don't usually use grain filler at all with walnut. You canget a really good finish with walnut so it really isn't necessary. I just use nitro to build up. I did give it a coat of minwax natural stain before I finished it. It made it a very mild amount darker. This was a premo piece of Walnut if you ask me. This one however had a ton of filler in it. The top is Wenge. I sanded it to 300 grit and then covered the whole top with light oak filler. Once it dried, I sanded it all back to the wenge. Wenge takes a tone of filler into the grain and to add to that it took a ton of nitro to get everything looking flat. Oh, and then I stained everything green before filling it. It made the wenge really dark and made the oka filler pop like crazy. I like the walnut you are using Matt. However, it isn't black walnut so you'll likely not be able to get the same tone. It all most look Peruvian to me.

First off, I have to say that I love Walnut and it's the most forgiving wood you'll find. It makes an excellent first build! I also like it with blond and to me i like it over crotch walnut. Since this sort of turned into a Tele show off thread I'd like to show a walnut one. Bookmatched black walnut finished in Nitro. Seymour Duncan's with a baby grand bridge. Notice my placement of the pickup selection switch. I like them up there! Two coil taps and one kill switch. http://www.zdguitars.com/moho1.html

Yah Seymour sends a set of resistors with the pickups to choke back the horse power if you can't clean up your tone once they are installed. The guy who bought it wants to be able to pull off "face melters" so they were wired full bore! Nothing but crotch kicking tones from this one LOL. Watch out Marshall

It’s possible. If you look at lower side of this guitar you’ll notice that the grain runs darker because the darker laced grain is running closer together than on the top half of the guitar. It almost starts to look a little hazy or muddy when you look at it. I guess that’s the nature of two different toned interlocking grain patterns running the same direction on one board. I found a picture that I took of the wood completely dry so you could see the contrast in color.

I agree with that but I think the fault isn’t with the lumber but more with how it's finished. I see a lot of zebra topped guitars that are cleared with nitro or poly with no stain what so ever. The wood I used was very bland when dried and although nitro would give it a wetter look, it wouldn’t have done much to make it "pop." I used teak oil which gives wood an amber tint to it so it really pulled out the grain. Some times when you have a subdued grain you have to play with it a bit to get the grain to really pop. IMO, zebra should never be finished without the grain being enhanced. It's just too dull

Wish i could get ti that cheap lol I got enough 8/4 Zebra wood to make two of these for a little over $200.00. (that would be 3 or 4 standard tele or strat shapes) I'd have to figure out the board foot cost but I'm to lazy. When I figure out my board cost I just figure out how many guitars I can get out of it and then divide the cost by that number. I got it off of EBay from Thoag. http://myworld.ebay.com/thoag Good prices, fast shipping and the wood was pretty straight when I got it. Ran it through the plainer and jointer a few times and I was ready to go. One thing about Zebrawood though. IT SMELLS LIKE COW DUNG when you are cutting it and sanding it. However, once you get done sanding it starts to go away. It will fill your shop and get stuck in your head for sure. Once you finish it the smell is gone. Quite the stinker though. I'm going to make a small run of these with Walnut wings and maple neck through. They will likely have TOM bridges with passive Seymour Duncan's. They can be custom ordered in this config but obviously with a Kahler, Active live wires and solid body exotic woods, this version won't go cheep. Also, It means alot to me to get some positive feedback. I know I don't post here alot but so far I like this forum. Rock on!

Thanks for the kind words. I used teak oil and I have to say that it built up quickly but in the future I'll use boiled linseed oil as it's generally the standard in oil finishes. It took about 1/2 quart to finish this guitar.

Well, this guitar was a labor of love for me. It was a complete R&D from the ground up which included several unforeseen issues that made this one of those guitars that "didn't want to be built." For example, the body meets the neck at the 12th fret on the bass side so this neck shim was extra long and the neck angle was a bit of a guess. The bridge was changed on me in mid build so I had to make a shim for the kahler to compensate for the TOM neck angle that was already complete. The technical stuff: Solid Zebra-wood wings oil finished Black Walnut neck through design with two graphite rods and a HotRod truss rod. Kahler hybrid tremolo with an aluminum shim and behind the nut locker. A set of Seymour Duncan live wire pickups going to two stereo outs for recording purposes. The guy I built it for loves his Ibanez XV500 so this design is styled after that: I clam little originality on this build! Since bandwith is seems to be a hot topic I'll just post one picture and then link to my website. Since the shape is outside the norm, I'm interested in what people have to say. BTW, I have a bass verson of this with a Padauk neck. http://www.zdguitars.com/evxproto.html

Hello, I am new here. It seems like a lot of guys from the Moser forum gravitate here! I am getting ready to star a new project and I have designed several shapes and I’m interested in your opinion on the best one. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/zyo.../Screenshot.jpg here are the picture posting rules.