piedpiperX2000

mm I dont think a burst on this one (if i ever FINISH a guitar ha) Headstock will be the same as the body however it ends up being. Thanks! Seeya Oh I bought a gallon of polyester resin clear, and I'm building a proper spray booth for it out in my barn today! I can't wait, it seems to be one of the more forgiving clears to apply, end result - wise

Unfortunately, I've been working on the electric just because I have everything I need to finish it; whereas the acoustic I have a couple hundred dollars of supplies to buy Progress Pics: Body is ready for dye! Masked off around the bindings to apply GRAIN FILLER. I like grain filler because it has huge solid contents and doesn't soak in and bleed through the tape line as easy as lacquer does. dyed, blue/sanded back/diluted blue. I'm trying to create a unique pickup mount idea. It's something like Jet mounts, but more of a minimal approach. We'll see how it turns out. Normal pickup rings, even wood, doesn't look clean to me anymore I don't know. Happy Building! - Josh

hehe maybe I should be working on the AE more everyone seems to be more interested =] The dimensions were made for the body to be around 1" smaller width and length, you know how an electric has angles on the body to lean against your body? Well This design is going to have those angles as well this should be one of the most comfortable acoustics to play.. EVER! =]

a better pic of the neck Seeya! - Josh

Yup that's exactly how it's gonna be X =] just like a 12 string but with the added low B and octave higher B Electric is all routed, all holes joints etc all ready, should start finishing by tomorrow or the next day! Acoustic neck is roughly done, waiting on the fretboard and frets to get here. I'm making my own binding and kerf out of spare wood I have laying around. I have some sketches drawn up of the inlay I want I'll upload them soon, it's a nature/outdoors/ tree/leaf theme thing kinda stuff.. O_o Yellow will darken alot with sunlight

I thought I'd post a thread here before I try on eBay next. I have two Duncan SH-4's never even used or installed, brand new but opened. If any of ya saw it on my build I opened em up just to test fit pu rings but nothing has been cut or used in ANY way! Selling individually for $65+ shipping or together for $120 + shipping. If I remember these are goin for at cheapest around $95 each + shipping and again, they're just like new! If you're in the market for whats been called the best pickup ever made, then snag this deal up =] Seeya! - Josh

So you like Phoenix Rising from McNaught? =] Its a good design to copy! its my favorite from him

Alright so, I sat down with a picture of a prs singlecut 10th anniversary, a couple McNaught and a couple Abyss guitar models and came up with the best of all worlds, in my view! These are some pics of my progress in the past two days. I was thinking doing it this color, or an ocean light blue, or tiger eye This is my neck blank I just made today for the 14 String Acoustic Electric; This is made from main Indian Rosewood, with Osage Orange accent strips! Osage is a super hard wood that's ( in this area ) bright yellow when cut, with prolonged sun exposure it turns a brilliant glowing golden color! This neck is going to be slightly thinner than a normal acoustic so it needed extra strength, finished with tru-oil or tung. Rough sketch on 1/8" Flamed Maple I planed down of the idea. The areas you see near neck joint are going to be flamed maple at an angle joining the sides and top. Comments and opinions are welcome! - Josh

I understand, I think what I've decided to do it recycle all the hardware and the neck to the current build. Looks like I'll start a new post soon!

Thanks mex! And supernova, if you consider the hardware alone new would cost around $650, $699 is TOTALLY reasonable! As i said before the neck cost me more than the 399 I was charging for just the body/neck no electronics so I think what I offered was more than fair to anyone that would want to take on a neat project if it's what they're looking for! It needs a little more sanding sealer, then all clear coats, buffing then electronics and it's ready. Well the nut needs height adjusted too but that's it. I've already strung it up before and it sounds beautiful and plays amazing! Again it's just not the direction I want to go with Avia, I most likely wont be making any hollowbodies with piezo/etc/top of the line everything again. It's just too much work, and too much money invested. The guitar I'm now aiming for will be in the range of $500-600 my cost so it will throw the end price in the sub-$1000 range which means I can sell locally too. I have ALOT of friends/contacts that are band related and that's mainly where I wanted to sell by face-to-face communication and interaction. If no one shows interest relatively soon I'll just finish it up. I'll most likely sell it even if I finish it for below cost as well! for maybe 950 or so.

lol Only tool marks are a messy route on the inside of the neck pickup hole, theres no chipping on the fretboard at all that's tape residue I just pulled off tape Nothing went wrong with it, after coming this far with it, its just not where I want Avia to go, as a model. Simple as that If ya smell fish check yer pants =] because it's not coming from my guitar hehe

Hey guys, I hate to do it, but I think I'm going to put the whole thing up for sale in its current state to someone here to wants to finish it. I'm either selling EVERYTHING together for 699 (i've spent $1400 so far) Or I'd sell the body/neck with no electronics for 399, like what you see in the pics. I spent more than that just for the neck O_o Then i'd sell the Sh4's for 50 a piece (half off), LRBaggs Piezo TOM with all electronics knobs jacks/control X for maybe $100 (more than half off) and tuners for 60 bucks ($140 @ stewmac) Everything is bran-spankin-new at MOST it was test fitted but nothing was ever USED used. Welp... lemme know if theres any takers. I wont go any lower than what i've posted! Unless someone wants to trade a good flame maple neck blank I'll knock off $100 Any questions post. Guitar is almost totally ready for clear coats. Someone finish this project!!! Thinking about it I'd really rather just sell it all in one I dont want to be shipping out a bunch of seperate things, $699. - Josh

still doing sanding sealer coats ready for lacquer within a day or two! Peace

no it's definitely tiger eye =] This guitar is most likely going to end up being for me and tiger eye is what I wanted so I just did it!

i wasn't going to post anything again but after sanding and putting the 6th-9th coat of sanding sealer on and rescraping the binding before it looked too good not to show you guys! Just the same old guitar but its fun to look at new pics! seeya

Starting finishing today Prob wont post any pics for a while since there wont be anything new until the clearcoat buffing stages Happy Building! - Josh

lol naw, it's a piece of metal that's bolted to both sides. It's gold but it's not like shiny gold like I wanted. It will most likely be replaced with something more shiny before I take promo pictures!

to be honest I'm really not sure I've never done any oil finished, I've always done strictly nitro or water-based, lacquer finishes. Theres a couple guys here that do nothing but oil finished I bet they would know an answer!

Finished Tailpiece and have binding almost perfect, everythings dead on! Action is amazing and it sound very natural and has a crisp ringing tone, its hard to describe but it sounds really natural and tonally vibrant! Tis all, happy building! - Josh

WezV thanks! It's gonna be the mag. pickup selector, the other two small holes are for the piezo bridge controls, its stereo/mono push button and a 3 way for straight piezo/piezo mag mix/straight mag, if I recall correctly. Anderson, I like the bottom one the best! I'm a sucker for orange colored finished tho =]

Teaser Mock-Up before I start finishing, this is after its dry and dulled up you know how dyed wood is before clear Ebony Knobs being made

Yup! I'm using 1/4" pinstriping tape. Ya know I might start spraying my dyes, with correct consitency and psi its basically dry when it hits the wood. That combined with pinstripe tape + lacquer the binding should produce an EXACT line... in theory Thanks for the help Xan =]

He was just giving his opionion, he wasn't telling you not to do what you like or put what you want to put on your guitar. I'm a christian too but lets not get this thread in the wrong direction =]

oh hey, see theres something I was going to do that I never really mentioned which was; I knew I wanted some sort of a gold hinge or connector to mount the tailpiece to, I also wanted to buy an extra gold hinge or anything thin and shiny gold, to cut out a part on one side of it to mount connecting the weak part on the far side. It's hard to explain but it was in the plans from the beginning i just never mentioned it I dont know why O_o. On the last tailpiece I tried a piece of birdseye maple I glued a thin veneer to the bottom and put a structural piece where I said I'm going to put the gold piece, but I didn't like how it looks so I cut it out and didn't show anyone the pictures hehe. Hey, I've been working on scraping the binding clean and I can't get it 100% clean, I masked off the spots around where the binding line was, put about 3-5 coats of lacquer over the bindings (i was drunk so +-2 coats) then taped off the bindings, but when I dyed it still bled through more than I'd of liked, and in certain spots bled through pretty deep. I have it cleaned up how does it look? I'll be the first to admit the binding lines aren't 100% perfect and it's kinda stressing me out a little, I guess it's all about knowing how to do it 100% proper so nothing bleeds through. Heres when I tested out tigereye, didn't like it too much, it has a cool look to it but I think red fit this build better. Besides I like doing a more dramatic tiger eye I dont like do subtle shiat like most manufacturers. I guess I'm going to start sealer coats tomorrow morning if you guys think the binding looks good enough peace - Josh

yer right =] Im'a do some more contouring to the bottom. They're typically held on with a hinge right? O_o I feel retarded for asked ha.. but it's the only way it'd make sense for a height-adjustable bridge