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maull

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Posts posted by maull

  1. I hate to say this. But looking at the grain on the end of your body, it is going to warp no matter what you do here. I think the issue is that you have chambered out large sections of the body, & by doing so you have released a lot of tension in the wood. I personaly would not have made those chambers so open, I would have broken each one into 3 sections with heavy spars between them to lessen the potential for warpage. But I fear that this has not stopped moving just yet & you may have more warpage to come.

    If I were to try fix it, I would remove the top. Make an autoclave / steam oven large enough to take the body. Steam the entire body block for at least 6 hours. then clamp it to a level work top, bench or machine table with a load of steel angle or 2 inch steel box section on top & a good number of clamps.

    Leave it for about a week. take it out of the clamps & store it for at least 8 weeks in a dry room, away from any windows, radiators, air con units (inside a wardrobe is good). Then test it to see if it has warped again.

    If it stays level for 12-16 weeks then re-start your build with your maple top. but use a 12mm thick hard / northern ash back with the grain set to oppose the limba's grain pattern.

    But if after 16 weeks it has moved again then I would scrap the sides & use the centre for a multi lam body.

    so er. . . .start over?

  2. I recently moved to a Markbass head and am looking to add one of their cabs in the near future.

    The head has interchangable modules. It comes standard with solid state but can be altered quickly to become a tube amp.

    http://www.guitarcenter.com/Markbass-MoMark-SD-800-Bass-Amp-Head-With-Frame-105939003-i1528919.gc

    This is one of the cabs I am looking at. Weighing in at 56lbs it is much lighter than the 4x10 Hartke Systems cab I am using now.

    http://www.guitarcenter.com/Markbass-Standard-104HR-Rear-Ported-Neo-4x10-Bass-Speaker-Cabinet-601096-i1396074.gc

  3. Neck and pickup angles planed

    DSC01107.jpg

    I know most folks use an orbital sander for this part but aside from not owning one, I feel like I would have a lot more control with a scraper.

    DSC01111.jpg

    A few beers later I end up with this

    DSC01115.jpg

    Still lots of tweaking to do on the carve but that is where she will sit for tonight.

  4. So I am putting together a LP style guitar for a good friend of mine who is going through a messy divorce. The divorce bit started after this project began. The original name for this guitar was the "Shred Paul" and now it will end up being either "The Ex-Wife" or "The Harpy".

    Short story long, I was explaining the toxicity of some of the wood to my friend and he says to me: "So what you're telling me is that the maple can affect your lungs, the wenge can cause sepsis if I get a splinter, if you do not ground it correctly I can be electrocuted, and the finishing is hazardous as well. It reminds me of *'STBEW'"

    * - Acronym for "Soon To Be Ex Wife". He pronounces it stooboo.

    Specs:

    Neck: Wenge/maple 3 piece lam

    Allparts truss rod

    24 Fret

    FB: Ebony with custom inlay. Dots on side only.

    Back: Wenge

    Top: Flamed maple

    PU's: SD Pearly Gates

    Tuners: Schaller

    Bridge: TOM

    Hardware color: Black

    Plans:

    DSC01022.jpg

    Neck blank progression:

    DSC00899.jpg

    DSC00904.jpg

    DSC00906.jpg

    DSC00921.jpg

    DSC00982.jpg

    Body progression:

    DSC01028.jpg

    DSC01029.jpg

    DSC01037.jpg

    DSC01086.jpg

    Screwed up on my wiring channel. May have to open up more of the control cavity to allow wiring to feed to all pots.

    DSC01087.jpg

    Before anyone says anything, more clamps were eventually added. Yes, they really are needed.

    DSC01091.jpg

    Templates for carve. I really hate mdf. The dust makes me itch even thinking about it.

    DSC01093.jpg

    DSC01096.jpg

    DSC01104.JPG

    Ready to plane the neck and pickup planes. Need to build a jig.

    DSC01106.JPG

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