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jbkim

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Posts posted by jbkim

  4. Calling All Proffesional Builders

    in Site Feedback, Issue Reporting and Test area

    Posted

    What I would really love to see is a guitar based site like www.pricewatch.com!  Instead of computer parts though, it would show guitar parts.  I don't know if you are familiar with the site.  I use it all the time to find replacement bits or add ons for my comptuters.  It would be fantastic to have a resource like this for guitars.

    Yes, that would be cool... but in the mean time, check out the Froogle section of google.com. While not dedicated solely to guitar stuff, I think it might be a helpful start for shopping around.

  6. to refret or not

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    whatever happened to putting the strings on and just shimming up to the correct height?measure where the strings are and use simple subtraction from where you want them to be. :D

    Ugh... for the fourth time...

    It'd probably be easy enough to "trial and error" the correct feeler guage sizes but for those who want some mathematical rigor, the above should be a good starting point.

    Sheesh, noone likes math anymore? B)

  9. to refret or not

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    I'm with Derek on this one.  I'm lazy too and I need a better way to find stuff rather than having to sift through 14 pages of junk to find what I need.

    I totally agree that their web site layout sucks big time... and I'm sure that they lose sales as a result of it. But to it's credit, their advanced search page for "shim" turns up the correct floyd parts right away.

  10. to refret or not

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    well i just don't understand your explination of the formula..... the only thing i understand there is r

    Well, I worked out the math as a prelude to figuring out the code. Hope it makes some sense to you B):

    
The distance between 1st and 6th strings on my floyd is

2 1/8" (2.125".)  Numbers have been rounded to nearest 0.0001"


  6    5    4    3    2    1

            <-c3->

       <------c2------>

  <-----------c1----------->


let c1 = 2.1250"             # distance between 1st and 6th

let c2 = (3/5)* c1 = 1.2750" # distance between 2nd and 5th

let c3 = (1/5)* c1 = 0.4250" # distance between 3rd and 4th


let r0 = 15"                 # starting radius

let r1 = 10"                 # ending radius


function calculate_height_d (r, c) {

  # takes radius and string distance as args: r and c

  d = sqrt(4*(r*r) - (c*c))/2

  return d

}


# let d10, d20, d30 = the calculated distance using c1, c2, c3

#                     with the formula: d = sqrt(4*r*r - c*c)/2

#                     and r0.

let d10 = calculate_height_d (r0, c1)

let d20 = calculate_height_d (r0, c2)

let d30 = calculate_height_d (r0, c3)


d10 = 14.9623"

d20 = 14.9864"

d30 = 14.9985"


# let d11, d21, d31 = the calculated distance using c1, c2, c3

#                     with the formula: d = sqrt(4*r*r - c*c)/2

#                     and r1.

let d11 = calculate_height_d (r1, c1)

let d21 = calculate_height_d (r1, c2)

let d31 = calculate_height_d (r1, c3)


d11 = 9.9434"

d21 = 9.9797"

d31 = 9.9977"


Now here's where it gets confusing :-).


Since in this case, we're going from a radius of 15 to 10, the 1st/6th

strings will be untouched, with shims needed for the 2nd/5th and

3rd/4th strings.  If we went from a radius of 10 to 15, the 3rd/4th

would stay the same and the others would need to be shimmed.


let d20_diff = d20 - d10

let d30_diff = d30 - d10


d20_diff = 0.0241"

d30_diff = 0.0362"


let d21_diff = d21 - d11

let d31_diff = d31 - d11


d21_diff = 0.0363"

d31_diff = 0.0543"


let shim_for_3rd_4th_strings = d31_diff - d30_diff

let shim_for_2nd_5th_strings = d21_diff - d20_diff


shim_for_3rd_4th_strings = 0.0181"

shim_for_2nd_5th_strings = 0.0122"

    so basically, you'll need two shims of about 0.0181" for your 3rd and 4th strings and two of about 0.0122" for your 2nd and 5th strings to change it from the 15" radius to 10" radius. Of course, as I said several times before, you could have "trial and error"-ed it, but math is fun, right? :D If anyone sees any errors above, please post any corrections.

  12. to refret or not

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    well i just don't understand your explination of the formula..... the only thing i understand there is r

    Hmm... ok, sorry. I suppose I can put together a web CGI form that calculates the shim sizes, given a starting radius and ending radius, if there is enough interest (post here if anyone is.) Give me a few days to do it... I have a love/hate relationship with programming :D.

  13. to refret or not

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    or you could draw part of a 10"r circle and overlap a 16(15 or 14)"r circle thta intersects at 2 points, the distance apart should equal the string spread on the bridge, then just divide that space by 5, and measure the gab between the 2 circles at the 4 marks you just made and the 2 ends will obviously stay the same........ cause i don't understand that math hooie you just posted.

    Isn't that what I just said? :D Um, actually, since you're dealing with two different curves and not a linear measure, it wouldn't be a straight proportion as you suggest. Plus, the distances you'd be dealing with will be on the order of 0.010" which'll be difficult to measure... but like I said in my original post, it might be just "easier" to "trial and error" it. I just posted the math for those who might be interested.

  15. to refret or not

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    I ordered some more shims almost a week ago and still haven't recv'd them yet. I think the part # is BP2214-001 ($4.50). Good luck. I think I may grab on of my feeler guages and hack it up if they don't show up soon.

    For anyone who wants to calculate the sizes of the shims from feeler guages... I checked the Dr. Math forum particularly the section for circle for any helpful formulas. This diagram seems to apply to this situation:

    segment.gif

    with the formula: d = sqrt(4r^2-c^2)/2 being the most salient. Calculate your values for d (the shims) with r being either your starting or ending radius and c being the distances between 3rd/4th, 2nd/5th and 1st/6th strings.

    It'd probably be easy enough to "trial and error" the correct feeler guage sizes but for those who want some mathematical rigor, the above should be a good starting point.

  16. IDEA!

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    ... but IMO you'll be wasting the effort with a 24.75" scale.

    Another thing to note is that gibson string spacing is narrower than floyds at the bridge... the 1st/6th strings'll feel like their slipping of the edge of the fretboard. I agree, it's just not right :D.

  21. new body,no neck, no pickups some advice

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    The floyd bridges do usually come in two radii - 10" for original and 14" for most others (such as Schaller). It doesn't really matter if you want to go with a higher radius though - just shim the saddles. If you decide to do this and can't find the shims, let me know (I think AllParts sells them). You can also make them yourself from feeler guages. It's a common thing to do from what I have been told. I'm doing this with a couple of them now.

    Shimming is the cheapest solution it seems. I haven't done the math but I wondered about replacing the two low saddles (1st and 6th string) with an extra pair of medium saddles (2nd and 5th) and what radius it would result in. Using allparts prices, it'd be around $30 plus s+h. If someone has done the calculations, it'd be cool if they could post a shim size table for converting radii... something like:

    
10"        | 14" | 15" | 16" | 17" | 18" | 19" | 20" |

2/5 shim   |     |     |     |     |     |     |     |

1/6 shim   |     |     |     |     |     |     |     |


14"        | 15" | 16" | 17" | 18" | 19" | 20" |

2/5 shim   |     |     |     |     |     |     |     

1/6 shim   |     |     |     |     |     |     |

  22. cnc routers

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted

    Derek

    are you looking for cnc router plans?

    not really looking to buy any plans if that's what you're asking, BUT, if you have a set you're willing to share send'em on over, it's something i'd like to keep my mind open too..

    [snip]

    course like i said i wouldn't want anything fancy, just something i could maybe build for under 1000$

    [snip]

    I found this site while surfing around... "Total cost - $952.25" It was linked from the cnczone forum which might be worth checking out if you're interested in CNC... especially the "Musical Instrument Construction" section.

  24. 22 to 24 frets ?

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    yeah :| ...sigh well it seems like alot of work to upgrade it but grrr i need somethign more better :D) i wonder if anyone has a set of demensions  for a Jackson Randy Rhoads body :D) that would be fun and i could have everythign i wanted ...

    neckthru body etc ...  :D 

    the kits from warmoth, rr body and bolton neck($332.00) is so close to jacksons price  ($439.00 complete guitar)i could just buy a jackson :D)  but im a lefty so i would be playing it all foobared .. you probly dint look up the L at the end of grx20l that i typed above ...eh anyways  yeah i mean two wings wouldnt be hard to cut out and a 24 fret neckthru would rock ... well i guess its more trouble than its worth

    to mess w/ my ibanez... cost prohibative and all

    chuck

    Actually I did see the "L" at the end of what typed... sadly that just makes the cost of hardware worse B). I didn't mean to disparage your proposed project (I apologize if it seemed that way) but you've got the right idea. After accruing all the necessary parts for the swap, it'd only be a little more ($45) to buy a body blank and build a whole new other guitar. As for the $439.00 Jackson, I'm sure it's a great guitar for it's price tag, but one that you build with the Warmoth, etc. parts will be THAT much better and it'd be all your own B).

  25. 22 to 24 frets ?

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Hmm... I just looked up the Ibanez model you have. Some things to concider, the Warmoth's price with a 24 fret neck will be as much, if not more, than a new GRX20 ($159.99 at musiciansfriend.com.) Factor in the work needed to move the neck pickup, maybe a new pickguard, maybe new tuners, etc. I think it'd be fun and you'd gain some cool experience with the swap but you'll have to decide if the guitar is worth upgrading. If the guitar held some sentimental value, I'd do it in a heartbeat... otherwise, I'd be reluctant.

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