mcbmoreno

Hey,

I am going to make a hendrix type guitar with a twist. I was going to keep th body in the correct right hand position but put all the controls on the top. One thing I cant seem to deciede is how can I put the 5 way pickup selector on the same side as the belly contour. I was thinking of using a rotary switch in place of the second tone selector or using a regular 5 way switch and routing the cavity from the bottom and covering it with a pice of wood matching the contour but I am not sure if that would work either because there still wouldnt be enough depth to fit the switch. ANybody have any other suggestions.

Hey Scott, that would be awesome if you could take those pictures. I guess you could post them here or my email is michaelbrown29@yahoo.com.

Hey Scott, I was trying to find out the exact shape of the body contour wise. Like Derek said how the edges were rounder plus some other guy I spoke to said that the arm and belly contours were cut slighly less into the body making the guitar a bit thicker at spots and heavier. I just wanted to get the depth and edges of the body I make similar to the edges and contours of an original late 60's strat. I guess I might be a little too **** on this but just wanted to get it as close to an original as possible. If that strat is a late 60's reissue is there any way you could take some close up pics of the contours, like side views and all that?

Well its official, I am addicted to guitar making. I got a 20 page paper due and all I can think about it guitar making. I haven't even got my first guitar project near done and I am already thinking about my second one. But here is my question. I wanted to make a strat body resembling a late 60's strat body and I wanted to know if the contours of the 60's bodies were any different from today's strat bodies? Does anyone know where I could get some blue prints for a late 60's strat to start this project? Also what is a worm route (it's something to do with the pickup cavity right?)?

Thanks

Hey, I was just doing some exploring on my strat and found that the pickup cavity for all three pickups was a big rectangle not seperate cavities. I am a huge hendrix fan and am thinking as a side prject from building my other guitar would be to install some good vintage strat pickups upside down to get a nice hendrix tone. Anybody got some good suggestions on some nice late 60's early 70's sounding single coil pickups with stagered pole pieces? I was thinking SD Alinco II Pro but any other suggestions.

Thanks

Not sure if you left yet but I would be interested in a band saw with at least a 4" cutting clearance (I would like a 7-8" cutting clearance so I could bookmatch but for 25 bucks I don't see that happening), drill press and a surface planner (preferably 13") all for around 25 bucks each or less. I might be dreaming but what the hell.

OK, so it sounds like I should repot them. Im going for it.

Hey thanks for the quick reply. I got a pearly gates and a gibson paf off of ebay so they are definitly not new. Since they are used you think it is worth doing it?

I was just reading some stuff about installing or reinstalling pickup covers (chrome ones) and it said that before you install them you have to dip the pickup in parafin wax. Is this true? If so how do you do it? After you dip the pickip in the wax is that it or do you have to clean off the pole pieces or anything else?

Thanks

Fingerboard isn't on yet but I got a gibson type nut which sits at the end of the fretboard not into it like a fender type nut would so I dont think I could get the thickness back with the fretboard. The more I look at the neck the more pissed I get. I have a piece left over that I think I might use to just do it over. The only problem is its not wide enough for the headstock so I guess I will have to glue on some ears. Ticks me off because I bought a big piece of qtr sawn mahogany so I didn't have to glue anything together. I guess I could try and salvage the already cut piece but I just had this vision of everything thing being perfect. Its more like a mirage now.

Hey,

I'm using a stew mac double rod truss rod. The neck where the nut is supposed to be is 1" & 19/32 and the width of the nut is 1" & 22/32.

I just had my neck cut and it now looks as though some measurements are off. The truss rod slot at the headstock end seems to be about a mm off center and the width of the neck at the nut position is a little skinnier than the nut I bought. Could I file the edges of the nut about a mm off each side to make the nut fit or will this screw up everything? Is it ok that the truss rod is a bit off center? So basically should I scrap the neck or continue with it.

Thanks

Yo,

I am getting ready to shape my neck and was wondering if anyone knew where I could get or make neck profile templates to get the correct shape for the neck. Also any other advice or tips on shaping the neck would be great. I did read Make your own electric guitar and the tutorial on project guitar but was looking for specific ways to get the right radius or profile across the entire neck.

Also is it possible or worth it to make radius sanding blocks, like you use on the fret board, to get a correct shape for the neck?.

Thanks.

While on the subject of blueprints, does anyone know where to get any type of PRS blueprints?

I went with a hipshot myself. I like it a lot. I special odered it from guitar center for $70 which was ten dollars less than anywhere else. The special order took a while (3-4 weeks) but when your poor its worth waiting.

How do you angle the neck pocket? Do you route it with a jig angled to a certain degree that the router sits on while you route out the pocket in the body? Or is it all hand work with files and chisels? Not sure how you would get a perfect angle when done by hand? Hmmmm

I was just wondering if you are going to use a neck angle, is it better to angle the tenon on the neck and leave the bottom of the cavity in the body for the tenon flat or vice versa?

Are maple tops for solid bodies usually 1/2" or 3/4" thick? I think on les paul's they are 3/4" but what are they on the PRS's? Is it worth getting a 3/4" or can you get a good enough carve on a 1/2"? Also is it a bad idea to bookmatch quilted maple? Thanks.

You could also try hipshot tremolos. Their site is www.hipshotproducts.com. Not sure if the righty has a solid block but it says on the web site the lefty does so maybe the righty does as well. You could special order them through guitar center or probably some other guitar stores for around 70 bucks. Plus they have them on stew mac for $80.

I guess I'll just have to keep looking. I have been doing searches but really am just a little weary of ordering a piece of wood that I haven't seen unless I know someone else has had some luck from the same store. This wood is for a guitar top. 1" thick bookmatched into 2 pieces a 1/2 inch.

Hey,

I have been looking around for the past couple of weeks for some quilted maple and not one lumber store in my area (US Massachusetts or New Jersey) has any with good figure. I was thinking of buying it online but am a bit skeptical without seeing it first and on ebay the good pieces seem to run like 100 bucks. Anyone know anywhere I could get some good quality quilted or flamed maple online or on the east coast for a decent price?

Thanks

Hey,

I was just reading Brian's posts on the reverse neck pocket and I got a little confused. I was thinking of using a deep set neck tenon joint for my upcoming guitar project. I was under the assumption that the deep set tenon was just a longer routed cavity into the body of the guitar which would later be covered up with a veneer of some sort. Sort of like this guitar being built. Pictures are down near the middle/bottom of the page.

http://www.monaro.com.au/guitar/4.htm

From Brian's posts it sounds like the deep set tenon is routed out from the back of the guitar.

here is another link that tells a little bit on deep set tenons but still leaves me a little confused.

http://www.edromanguitars.com/tech/neck_tenon.htm

So I guess my main questions are where does the routed cavity go when using a deep set tenon? Can it go on either the front or the back of the body? Is the tenon joint just a rectangular sqaued off joint joint that dosent taper? Since the joint sits way into the body the pickup cavities are routed into the joint wood right?

On a totally different topic. Does anyone know of a good, cheap place to buy quilted maple?

Thanks everyone.

ANyone know how to determine what angle to set a neck. I am going to use a Wilkinson tremolo bridge. Didn;t get it yet so Im not sure how high it sits. Also anyone know what the routing template for the wilkinson is?

and a couple more question.

I wanted to use a 25" scale 24 fret glued in neck. Want to have a double cut away body. Anyone know how much the fret board is supposed to sit into the body (or overlay the body)? And also how do you where to route out the cavities for the pickups (2 humbuckers and maybe one single coil) with a 24 fret neck?

Thanks for any info.

Hello,

I am getting ready to begin making a guitar (PRS McCarty Style) with a set glued in neck. I have been looking around for some measurements on what the tenon joint is supposed to look like. I couldn't find exact measurements, the only thing I found were some pictures. The picture on this site set neck joint pic

and this site

side view

were somewhat helpful but I still dont know the exact measurements. Also Does the pick upsit right on top of this joint?

And what would be a measurement where the roundness of the back of the neck begins to flatton off. That might sound confusing but I mean on the back of the neck the part that meets the body it is squared off. This is a picture of what I mean.

I see some different amounts or lengths of flatness as it hits the body. Is there a specific amout that should be squared off before it hits the body especially for set necks?

And the last thing is How can I find the location and shapes of the cavities in the back of the guitar where all the electronics will sit?

Well that is a ton of stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to iron some questions before I begin. Thanks a lot.