signguy

Everything's possible. It depends on how far you're willing to go, what tools you have available, etc. etc.

You have various options --one way would be to cut out a central column from the existing body (including the neck pocket and pickup and most of the control cavities) then gluing on new wings and reshaping those.

You can also do as you say, just sharpen things up a bit, keeping away from area around the existing control cavity. If you're going to do that I'd suggest spending time working up your design before attacking the guitar.

Keep in mind that you're going to have to refinish the guitar either way.

If you're gonna go that far, why not just build a new body and keep the old body in case you want to change it back? You won't save alot of cash re-using the existing strat body, especially if you start cutting it down and adding wings. Time won't be saved either so I can't see the logic in starting with the strat body. Just my opinion, but good luck with the project either way!

Curly and flamed are the same quilt, just over time industry has come up with different terms for it. If you do a search on ebay for quilted maple instead of flamed you get more results because quilted is the older term so more people know it as that. Here is my contrabution to this thread.

That's certianly not my understanding. I believe it goes something like this (although it's certainly not always used this way): the amount of curl refers to the amount of figure in the wood, regardless of the type of figure. You've then got quilted figure (only found in Western Bigleaf maple, never in hard maples), which comes out best in a slab cut (IIRC), you've got flamed (which is that first pic, essentially, although that's a flame that's quite unique to western bigleaf, and I usually see it referred to as curly; see curlymaple.com, f'r instance) which comes out best in a quarter cut; within flame (which occurs in both hard and soft maples) you can differentiate between tiger (wide bands of flame) and fiddleback (which is the tighter curl you see on, you guessed it, many a fiddle). I'm not sure if I'm getting the usage of 'curl' and 'flame' confused here, though; it is messy.

However, that quilt refers to a specific type of pattern found in bigleaf maple (and some other woods, like Sapele, from time to time) is certain, and it's different from a flame look.

Yes, the quilted maple patterns are wider and look more like a quilt or tortoise shell pattern, whereas the flamed or curly maple look more linear, lines more so than shapes. As for the species issue, not sure.

Really? I've used minwax poly over a decal four times now and it's never damaged the decal. Strange...

I've sprayed poly over vinyl, and printed vinyl with no adverse reactions. One tip tho, spray a light coat the first time, kinda seal it quick, then you can start to build it up after that.

I love the look of the swastika aswell, but you might just get your ass kicked if you have it on your guitar and the wrong guy (or group of guys) sees it. It was actual an indian symbol for like peace and nature or something like that, then hitler put it at a tilt and there you have the most recognized symbol for hatred in the world. If you could put the swastikas in flat (edges parallel to the edges of the fretboard) you may be alright, then they'd look like block inlays from a distance.

Agreed on the ass kicking part. Symbols have power for people and while someone may think it looks "cool", it is what it is - a symbol of hatred and bigotry. There are plenty of sites out there that explain its historical background but none of that changes what it has come to represent. Given its current and obvious meaning, is its use warranted simply because it looks "cool"?

Just my .02. Other than that all the best on the project itself.

Robert Irizarry

I'm pretty sure he's talking of the Iron Cross. Which would make for some kewl looking inlays Good luck on your project and post some pics.

Very cool, I like it. Can't wait to see the characters.

Keep it up!

I've been looking at those too. Surely someone here has picked one of those up and has some experience with them.

I have heard in the past that they seem to wear pretty quick at the pivot point, causing headaches...

Yup, most tutorials I have seen have just used rat tail files, sandpaper etc.

Another soon to be vintage strat spared. lol I know how you feel wanting it all shiny and new looking, but hey I think SRV's #1 is a beautiful thing!

I've got a strat I want to re-do as well, but I think I'll build a new body for it, and leave the original as is. New pups, pickguard and the tremolo of my choosing. If I want to sell it later, just change them back to original...

Looks great Southpa, I really like the inlays.

Where did it originate? Your creation originally or??

Love the Ormsby GG6, gotta hand it to ya Perry, you build a great looking guitar! Keep up the good work. It's quite inspiring.

As for the others, I love the Cremo tobacco box, and the violin is killer!

I bet you play the first one in the stand the most...

If you do eenie meenie miny moe, you'll always end up choosing the first guitar...

lol, made you count didn't I...

Got any pictures of that beast?

Excellent, it's good to hear lots of success stories. Keep learning and sharing the experiences.

I hope to start a project really soon and I know I wouldn't be thinking seriously about it if it hadn't been for this place.

Good luck!

IMO the monkey grip would change the sound so little, it would be inaudible. Could be wrong, but the farther away from the strings path, and vibrations from neck to bridge you go, the less difference a hole would make in resonance, sustain etc.

Besides they do look way kewl.. lol

I guess my first question would have to be are you sure you want to do this? I know... stupid question but an 82 is just about 24 years old... Could have higher value associated to it just left alone. Otherwise, have you started with a search on this forum regarding refinishing techniques?

Hummm, never been enough of an artist to do the faux finishing thing. Don't know if you have a "Home Depot" of sorts in Sweeden, but they can be a great source of info on that kind of thing. Try a web search for "faux finishes" and you'll likely be innundated with links.

As for the satin finishes, yes they are available in polyurethanes, but as to their compatibility... You'd have to find a method of painting the faux finish and then testing clears to get the look you're after. It should be possible but some clears may just appear hazy or cloudy. Most clear coats are glossy naturally, and they add compounds to reduce the gloss of the finish. You'll tend to see more sediment in the bottom of a can of semi-gloss clear than you would with a gloss at least with the poly's.

Just do lots of testing, and post what worked for you! Good luck!

Looks great so far, nice job.

As for inlays the pyramids are good, but you may want to be a little creative with them. You may be able to find some ideas on fleabay or something. There are usually loads of different styles there.

As for colour, I'd say with the grain you have in the veneer to go with the dyes as well. Just be cautious as depending on how thick your veneer was, the glue may interfere with the finish. The green and blue dyes have been my fav's for awhile now.

Have fun with it. Look around the site for some ideas on colour. Jemsite may help on that one too.

My advice is to buy good quality tools. If you can't quite afford them now, save your cash till you can.

Going half way now will cost you in the long run. You'll find yourself struggling through simple tasks, making mistakes and wishing you had waited only to purchase upgrade machinery later on. The router would likely be ok as long as it takes 1/2" bits which it says it does, but go for at least a 14" bandsaw. You can pick them up relatively reasonably as compared to the cheaper 9" - 12" models out there and you can do so much more with them.

I think Nightfly is on target. To quote a job, usually you figure YOUR total cost of materials, mark that up a percentage, say 50% and then it's just a matter of your labour rate. That is really the variable figure.

If you're just starting out you would have to base it on a fair wage. After you have some jobs under your belt, enough to provide a good portfolio of work then your pricing can be more geared to an artists rate. If people like what you do you can pretty much name your own rate. But you have to earn that right with some killer designs and happy customers.

Good luck, don't get discouraged. Treat the customers right and they will do the advertising for you!

Great Guitar! nice job. I think I need to go back to school. Seems way cooler than when I was there! lol And btw.....

You keep that Dave Matthews poster up and show it with pride... !

You gotta give credit where it's due. No, he's no guitar god, but have you ever seen his guitarist Tim Reynolds play accoustic? Get your hands on a copy of his VH1 Storytellers video, it'll blow you away. I know it's off topic, but he'd one of the most talented songwriter / singer / instrumentalists to come around in a loooong time.. One of the most under rated musicians of today.

I guess you'd have to evaluate each part for what it is.

I'm not trying to be snobish, but generally speaking Asian parts are of a lower quality. They tend to be clones or copies of someone elses hard work reproduced enmasse, with cheaper materials which allows them to be sold at bargain basement prices.

That's not to say they can't or don't produce any good parts. Likewise, you have to evaluate USA, Canadian or whaterver parts. Sometimes a company can get sloppy after they have established a name for themselves and the quality seems to disapear. The shareholders become more important than the axe holders as such.

Just do some research on each part you're considering. Forums like this are a good place to start, but ask the questions on each specific part you are looking at. You really can't generalize and say "Don't buy Asian parts" I've got a Jap strat here that I'd put up against any American made with confidence.

Cheers

That Floyd does look a bit out of place, but what the hey. The neck improvements look great though

I worked this out last night and it seemed to work for scaling up some pictures, provided they where taken looking straight on at the guitar.

First you get something on the guitar that you know is a definite size like the scale length, if its in inches convert it too MM. Then you then measure the scale length on the picture, divide this number into the real scale length and then to get to the real size times any measurement on the picture by the number you just got.

←

Also have to be careful. I have a pretty decent digital cam, but I know for a fact the lens has a tendancy to fisheye the image. More so around the outside of the image, but it is there. Most noticeable on pictures of large straight buildings and such.. It's a good starting point but don't trust it with critical measurements!

"what do you think of that carve does it look ok? its my fourth or fifth,i think i am getting the hang of it what do you think?"

I think you did a great job on the carve. Looks really natural. What all did you use to carve it with?

LOL, just like kids in a candy shop....

Yes I love the colours too, they're very "striking". For me, unless I see just one colour that makes me say "that's the one" immediately upon seeing it, I would go for the safety zone hehe. I think you'd be happy with any colour, but unless you're sure I'd stick to a natural look personally.

Gotta say, great job helping out guys! It's sooo nice to see the efforts and interest by members in each others projects. Kudos!

Most likely they had a bunch of clearcoating to do that day. Being in business, I know that a large portion of the cost involved in doing any job is setting up to do it and cleaning up after. The material to spray that body costs next to nothing for them, but to have someone mix some clear up, get into the booth, spray it and clean up afterwards can cost you an hours labour! Also, what if they got a big sag in it and needed to repair that area...

Good deal! Hope your luck continues!