scorpionscar

Is not exactly a spindle sander cause it has no movement upwards-downwards but it works really good. I adappted a glutter piece with a reduction and allows me to connect the vacuum. Scorpionscar

I'm going to try now and see what happens, strange problem... I' going to put some pics of the machine. Is easy to do, but tedious. It works, really really good and save much time. Is one of the best machines in my workshop, moreover I have special affect cause is a creation of mine. Happy weekend: Scorpionscar

No, I simply writte but the quote appears and don't know how to remove. Now it seems to be all right

Scorpionscar

Ok Curtisa, I supposed, but like to contrast information I find on the internet and learn as much as possible. Scorpionscar

Thank you so much Curtisa, I've very happy and grateful for learning about issues where I had some doubdts. I'm going to use number 1 cable, after reading you, I'm convinced is a good choice technically and can ge ti easily. Sometimes we do the things for routine and is better to understand how things work. This saves time and headaches, appart from money. Is necessary that all the grounds go solder to the same pot or it doesn't matter? Scorpionscar

I've just read in an internet forum of electronics where explain that the correct way is to solder only one ending and the opposite is wrapped with heat shrink sleeve. Always learning new things. Scorpionscar

Thank you very much Curtisa for your dedication, your time and this complete explanation. Effectively, numbers four and five are changed, sorry, I did the document in a hurry. The number one is very very easy to ge in my city, but I thought It didn't work because there is not an aluminium wrap like in number 2, its true it has a gronud exterior wire. You have made my day!!! I understand that every connection you do between two components, you should solder the two edges of the mesh to ground. About number 2 (the four conductor) It was hard to me to find a utility basically becouse as you said, you use one conductor and the other 3 are no necessary but in the web of stew mac, present it like a good choice... Scorpionscar

I would like to open this post in order to learn and contribute knowlegments about the types of wires, gauges, and how to use them properly in order to avoid ground noises as well as shielding techs/products. I wish this topic were something similar as a guide that everybody including newbies (in electronics) like me, can consult and learn, and who are experienced, share tips and ideas. I start launching a doubt about different wires I have in my workshop. NUMBER 1: Is a shielded wire I bought in a local electronics shop, I understand is not the suitable type, however is easy to get, cause in my case sometimes I have to order in USA and is not cheap due to taxes and customs, appart from time. NUMBER 2: Is a four conductor shielded. Is a great wire I bought at stew mac. If someone wants to explain how to use (the basics) can do it. Steward says that for short conections between componentes is not necesary shielded wire. NUMBER3: Is cloth wire NUMBER 4: Is a wire I get in my city, in an electronics shop. Diameter with plastic: 1.63mm, Diameter of conductor: 0.6mm (Is important to talk about gauges, and how they affect the connections/sound) NUMBER 5: This is a shielded wire with en exteior metal mesh. How and when is a good idea to use each of them and why. I've read in some place that is important to use shielded wire expecially from the jack output to the volume ground. On the other hand, when is necessary/properly shielding the guitar and what is best. For example I usually use a conductive paint and is easy to apply and the results are good for me. As non expert in this issues and ready to learn, every coment will be well received. Thanks in advance and happy weekend. Scorpionscar

Ebony is a curious material. I spent the surface of one fingerboard (the one that appared cracks while radiousing) I used it for this and had to do a lot of attempts. Sometimes the laser burned the piece, others didn't run through the star, others, the piece of ebony were displaced due to its hardness and produced a tremendous noise. It was a moment when I thought of giving it up...But finally the result was excelent. It took me two days... Scorpionscar

Thanks Scott I'm back from my holidays and ready for working. I've visited Dominican Republic and New York, both of them beautiful places. After a little period of post-holiday depression, I've been working on the inlays of one of the guitars which is in the line of Ritchies Sambora's stars. I know that this has lovers and detractors but 80's are my debility, sorry can't avoid it. Well, the stars go in MOP but with a black frame which goes in ebony. For this, I had to thicknen a piece of ebony to 1.27 mm thickness. The frame of the big ones (first frets) have a measurement of 1.2 mm, and the smollest ( seventh to 21th frets has a measurement of 0.8 mm) that is a really really thin border. The process was done by a laser but was not easy cause had to do a lot of rehearsals till find out the correct way. The result well worth the effort. Two pics of the pieces with a 1€ cent as a reference between the biggest and the smolest: Scorpionscar

This week I go abroad and I'll come back after Christmas, due to this reason, I'm not able to continue working on the workshop over the projects but I promise that in the new year, I'll continue working and exposing the advances again. I'm very proud and happy of being a member of this great comunity worlwide of guitar builders, I'll miss you. Merry Christmas to everybody and hope the wise men bring you a lot of souvenirs. Scorpionscar

Artistic photography day. Happy weekend to everybody!!! Scorpionscar

This is a jig I made for trimming the fingerboard using the neck shape as a template easily. It consists of two moveable cauls of MDF fixed to the bench with clamps. The router goes screwed on to a base. If the depth is not the correct, you can lay down the neck over a wood suplement of the measure you need:

I've decided to do it this way ScottR. The fingerboard is already radiused but suppose there is no problem to rout it on the router table. You're right, is quite risky, because of don't have margin of error, I finally did it as ScottR said, but your method of using the fingerboard as a template seems to be interesting to. Thank you for your suggestions. For gluing it the idea was to use two pins in order to avoid the displacement of the fingerboard due to the effects of the glue. I want to drill two holes with a 1mm diameter drill bit and them insert a nail of the same diameter but didn't found in any store, for that reason I decided to use the bit itself as a pin. The glue seems to be sucessfully. Some pics of the process:

What do you think is better for gluing the fingerboard (bolt on neck)?: - First route the fingerboard with the same template used for the neck, and then glue or - Glue it first, and then use the neck shape as a template? All your advises will be wellcome. Scorpionscar

Amazing work Massimo. The most beautiful inlays I've ever seen. Congratulations Scorpionscar

inlays of one of the Strato figerboards done, simple, but effectives, sometimes in the simplicity is the hit, is no necessary to inovate too much. The inlays of the other Strato, and the Flying-v are more elaborated and eye-catching. The fingerboard of the carved guitar, has no inlays, is a complete ebony fingerboard, I slotted it today too. Some pics:

Today I've been working on the fretslots. I used a homemade miter box made with recycling materials. I spent a lot of time setting up the jig but well worth the effort cause it works fantastic and is very precise. I cut the slots but not as deep as tang, after that, I use my japanesse saw with a stop block and is now when I locate the acrylic stop block the lenght of the tang plus six or seventh of a milimiter. This way is no necessary to fill the gap and it works great for me. In one of the pictures there is the easter candle's of my grandma in honour to Curtisa Who tought me the trick of lubricating the saw blade with the parafin of the candle. At the same time I pray to god for no make mistakes at this stage of the process. Some pics of the advances:

Today I've been working on the Strato necks with the help of a tunel I built for the router. Some pics;

Today I cut the necks to their definitive profile. Only have pics of the wengue-bubinga ones. Happy weekend for everybody:

Today I've spent five hours cutting the edges of the cameras and sanding the interior. It was tedious and no easy but the result well worth the effort. The easy thing would have been left the round edges of the bearing of the bit, but personally I think that in this guitar the personality and the essence are just the corners, so I did. I had to build a jig with two pletins of 3 mm to act as a guide for guiding the blade of the saw in order to respect the rectitude of the line. Some pics of the process: