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scorpionscar last won the day on November 5 2020

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  1. When Leveling frets, starting from a perfect radiused and uniform fingerboard, and the fretwire is uniform, I notice that sometimes is needed to remove too much material. In my last leveling, the process was too quick, only some passes with 400 grit leveling bar. I know that the first step is to put the neck as stright as possible, however I notice when I use the notched ruler that there is a slight concave gap in the center of the neck, this relieve is difficult for me to straighten, sometimes I have to appeal to visual inspection (as If I were to shoot a gun like in the second pic). I use an arbor press and the frets enter perfect, there is not much choice that some of them sit lower becouse the ebony is too hard.... The ideal thing would be that the leveling process were fast and easy, however most times is tedious. What are your thoughts about this? Scorpionscar
  2. I have a blade strato style guitar with Levinson pups. They have a grid (ground, in the picture=black cause was too short and I had to solder a black one), white and red wires. Does anyone tell me the color code? I think the red=hot and white goes soldered toguether with the grid to ground but not sure. Any ideas or how to identify them with the multimeter (Not very experienced using the multimeter for this purpose..) Scorpionscar
  3. Does the shaft is solid or is not properly push the piece to it? I have one I made with the engine of a washer machine with a frecuency variator. The problem is that the grain of the sand tends to mark the guitar due to the lack of up-down movement.... Scorpionscar
  4. I have in mind to purchase one of this. Do you recommend it? scorpionscar
  5. All of you are right, I've solved the design with an angle, The anatomy of this style of guitar requiere it, and the khaler, although is not taller in excess, can be adjusted a lot, so I decided to angle the neck. As you say Prostheta, I have the option of recess the bridge, or raise the neck, this is one of the advantages of this type of construction (set neck). About the nut, not very clear what to do... I`m going for a laminated neck for stability, with a double action truss rod. Do you think is necessary reinforcements of carbon fiber? What profile measuremts should I use in the first and 12th fret? Scorpionscar
  6. Hi, I'm designing this guitar inspired in the ESP Eclipse. It is going to wear a Khaler stud mounted bridge 7 string, but never have dealed with this before! - Does anyone know if the ESP Eclipse has a neck angle? I know it depends on the bridge but is an importand information in order to solve the body-neck joint. I point out that is a set through building, no long tenon in the style of Les Paul, cause I want to combine different types of woods in the heel zone. How would you solve the joint? neck angle, no angle, how many degrees?... - On the other hand, do you think is necessary a locking nut or it would be posible to use a normal bone nut with the khaler? (The tuning machines will be Sperzel with lock system. Thanks in advance!!! I'll describe the entire process of the building here in the forum. Scorpionscar
  7. I have to mount this tremolo on a Telecaster guitar. Never have donde this before, I have two questions: Do you think is possible? and the customer wants to install a Tune O'matic type bridge, What would you do, Make a shim to elevate the neck height at neck pocket or recess the body so as to allow the bridge decrease height? I don't want to alter too much the structure of the guitar in case the owner of the guitar don't like the final result and want to go the previous point.... On the other hand never deal with this model of bridge and don't know how to fix the spring and allow it to be in place. I put a photo of the stock... Scorpionscar
  8. This weekend I've been working on an idea to improve a cheap drill press in order to get the distance between the center of the chuck and the column. Habitually this distance is about 110 mm, is not enough for drilling string body through holes or the holes for the studs of Floyd Rose or Tune O'matic. I'm going to use an old drill press that had stored into my workshop. The task is to dismount the column and screw a platen of 50 mm x 10. Due to the reduced space betwenn the chassis of the drill press and the engine, It was necessary to countersink the drills of the platen, I made screw threads on the holes in the chassis of the drill press. The best of all, I spent less than 20 €. Some photos: The new distance now is 156 mm, more than we really need. Now it's time for preparing the base for the drill. It consists in a platen with three holes for attaching the base at the workbench, another vertical platen 50mm X 10 and a cartouche in order to reinforce all the structure. I drilled both platens each 30 mm in case it's necessary to move up. I painted all satine black and mounted all toguether. For the three lever I used M8 threaded rod in which I filed a recess for tighten with the wrench. for the extremes I made three pieces in the lathe out of beech wood. Then I painted red for a more realistic achievement. And now the finish product: It works perfectly and is no need to purchase a bigger/more expensive one in order to what I mentioned above. I hope you find this topic useful. Happy start of week. Scorpionscar
  9. Thanks Drak, I'll do it. Thank you so much Thank you Curtisa. I'm going to try it!!! Scorpionscar
  10. Hi, I have a question about an EMG circuit. The guitar is HSS. It has a master volume push/pull in order to do a split coil function. It has a tone push/pull pot to activate an SPC All the pick up wires form the pick ups go to the correspondient section in the switch, battery wires no problem, and a green wire from the switch to the output jack, no problem.... The task is how do I connect the master volume to the switch and If I need to connect between master volume and tone. Sorry but not very familiarized with EMG pups. Thanks in andvance!!!
  11. I agree. I think the same, two tops and fill with epoxy cause in the zone of the carving in the horns, the spalted maple is deep inside. There are interesting ideas that come to my mind... Scorpionscar
  12. Hi guys, does anyone know hot to do this out-standing look guitar. the first one seems to be a combination of dying and natural, but the second one is like the spalted maple were inlayed into the flame maple. Any ideas?? Scorpionscar
  13. Thank you so much ADF, a really useful and instructive vídeo. Scorpionscar
  14. Hi, I'm working on a Les Paul style guitar and want to make a faux binding taking advantage of the maple. The task here is how to achieve a perfect line, expecially in the upper surface, about 1.6 mm thick. I want to tint amber and them a cherry red burst. Any ideas will be wellcome. Other doubts are: - Do I need to to do the finish after or before glueing the neck to the body _ What do you think is best, leveling/crowning after or before glueing neck-body? Thanks in advance. Scorpionscar
  15. Today I glued the fingerboard to the neck. Due to the issue with the fingerboard, I pointed out that I wouldn't be easy to attach it to the neck, so I glued first four pieces of maple to the neck in order to help to put in place the fingerboard properly with no error. After applying the glue to both surfaces, I placed the fingerboard and counter the bow with two clamps, them I used tape for fixing the fingerboard firmly to the neck, removed the two clamps and put a radioused block that covers the whole fingerboard and applied strenght. I think I could save the fingerboard and the project, but always with the heart in the throat. Scorpionscar
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