scorpionscar

I present this beauty called "DEVA JAZZ·". Deva is the godess of water in celtic mythology, and in the region where I live in, are descendants of celtic. This guitar is suitable to any situation, both distorted hard rock sound and clean as well, so it addapts like water to its container, and jazz for her neck Seymour Duncan SH-2N jazz PUP. It is a really all terrain guitar and this is the reason I designed and built her, for a friend who plays in orchestras and due to this, he needs a very versatile and lightweight guitar.

I've been building guitars for nine years and it all began with a knee surgery which apparted me from work and normal life during a whole year. Was this way that I began to read about guitarbuilding and developed this art which I'm in love with. My first guitar was a bubinga and flamed maple top explorer model resized 10%, with which I discovered this amazing forum. DEVA is actually my sixth guitar. All my projects are developed in my garage, which I've conditioned as my workshop. Also have designed and made a lot of machines and jigs for this purpose.

The body of the guitar is made out of Spanish cedar because I love the tone of this wood and also because is quite easy to work with. The top is a selected piece of European maple and the first idea of my friend was a solid white finish, but due to the beauty of the timber and its eye-candy grain, we decided to go with a natural nitrocellulose one. The neck is a multilaminated wengue and bubinga, and the profile is ultrathin following the specifications of my friend.

The specs are as follows:

Body: Spanish cedar with maple top

Neck: Wengue&bubinga 5-layer multilaminated with 12" ebony fingerboard

Frets: 24 Jumbo

Scale: 25.5"

Nut: TUSQ

Bridge: Hipshot black

Tuner machines: Schaller 3L+3R

Switch: 3 way toggle switch

Controls: 1 volume, 1 tone

Neck pup: Seymour Duncan SH-2N Jazz

Bridge pup: Seymour Duncan SH-4 JB

Finish: Nitrocellulose natural Gloss

Hardware colour: Black

You can follow the building of this guitar with another three in the following link:

Some pics of DEVA JAZZ:

Thank you so much for your time and for reading my entry.

Scorpionscar

On 8/15/2018 at 8:07 AM, Prostheta said:

Wow, now that's a nice guitar! One I'd certainly get along with very well. That's a material and hardware spec that speaks to me. Nice.

Going to GOTM her?

Thank you so much for your words Prostheta. About GOTM Had not thought,.. but maybe I'll take part if I'm in time...

On 8/15/2018 at 10:09 AM, Andyjr1515 said:

Beautiful guitar - top class.

Excellent job.

Thank you so much Andyjr1515!!!

On 8/15/2018 at 2:05 PM, FINEFUZZ said:

Magnificent,  Beautiful body and a lovely headstock form!

Thank you FINEFUZZ, I'm glad you like it!!!

On 8/15/2018 at 3:58 PM, ScottR said:

Very nicely done!

SR

Thank you so much Scott!!!

On 8/15/2018 at 5:10 PM, mistermikev said:

I concur... amaz-balls.

Thank you mistermikev, probably I'll concur too.

Scorpionscar

First hardrock beauty ready to rock. I have called it DEVA JAZZ, because Deva is the godess of water in celtic mythology,and where I live in, are descendants of celtic. This guitar is suitable to any situation, distorted hard rock sound and clean, so It addapts like water to its container, and jazz for the neck PUPs. It is a really all terrain guitar. Specs and some pics of the guitar. Hope you like it!

Scorpionscar

Do you think 0.7 mm is a good start point for nut clearance?

Scorpionscar

11 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Absolutely lovely work. Clean and methodical.

Thank you very much for your words Proastheta, is really really comforting and motivator hearing this words.

Scorpionscar

On 7/18/2018 at 3:50 PM, FINEFUZZ said:

Wow, this build is impeccable and possesses so many awesome design details. 

I have never really liked the flying-V platform until now.

Thank you so much FINEFUZZ, I'm glad you like it. Explorers and V's are really sexys, I love them!

On 7/18/2018 at 4:49 PM, ScottR said:

Astounding attention to detail.

SR

Thank you Sco0ttR

This is the engine under the hood:

Scorpionscar

No matter what you do in life. Do it always with passion, do it always with love. Almost ready within the starting grid!

Scorpionscar

I have applied almost three coats of conductive paint but when ise the multimeter there is no conductivity. What's the problem?

Scorpionscar

9 hours ago, curtisa said:

The pot case is metallic and conductive, so there's no real need to connect it to the cavity shielding with a dedicated wire. Bolting the pot through the cavity wall should be sufficient.

As long as you can get a connection to any and all parts that must be tied to ground, that's all you need. If there is an air gap between two parts that must be grounded then you just need to find a way to bridge that gap, either by wire or by direct contact with each other.

Ok, I understand. Thank you so much Curtisa. Is important having this issues clear in order to have a correct wiring and eliminate any unwanted noyse. Probably this weekend begin to wire some of my guitar buildings, so I like to plann each detail before doing it!

Scorpionscar

On 2/17/2018 at 11:09 PM, curtisa said:

no matter what type of shielding you use, in order for it to be effective it must be connected to ground. That's about it, really.

Is this correct to connect all the cavities with terminals and connect to a ground of the pot to make the shielding effective?

Scorpionscar

20 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Wow, this is going to have some lines.

Yes Prostheta, moreover I'm going to use carbon fiber and some type of steel  grid.

Scorpionscar

I',m in love with hard rock beauty. Almost ready...

Scorpionscar

I haven't advanced too much cause I've been reforming my workshop. Some pics of the Flying-v, which is almost ready for assembling:

Scorpionscar

is in the little details where the difference is. Pics of the bubinga cover for the control cavity of the guitar with the maple carved top. It has also a bubinga rear veneer in the headstock. Happy weekend to everybody:

Scorpionscar

On 6/20/2018 at 3:10 PM, Prostheta said:

I thought I'd update you on clearcoating over decals. This is aerosol 2K clearcoat over a decal. First day of applying layers. The edges of the decal are buried and can only be seen if you really try hard to find them. Flatting of the clearcoat will hide them entirely. These decals were made for me by Rothko and Frost and are simple waterslide transfers. The ink can melt if you spray anything heavy to start out with. Light coats seal it, subsequent coats bury it.

Really beautiful Prostheta. I've followed your advises about dust coats and is incredible how none dissaster occurs. The sticker is protected and then is possible to open the flow of paint in the spry gun. For the headstock of the Flying-V I used a 0.18 mm thickness sticker in vinyl, too much thicknes and was hard to cover it by the clear coat. What I did was to use a paint brush and fill around the sticker, the result was very good. The next day I water sanded for flattening the surface and applyed more clear coats over. The sticker is perfectly inside the clear coats but it was no easy...

Scorpionscar

6 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Until it's not. I'd use magnets for Ebony covers.

Very interesting idea Prostheta, I had thought for cavity control covers but don't know how to get this system and how to deal with it...

Scorpionscar

2 hours ago, Norris said:

I was wondering wether to make a metal/ebony laminate for durability. I don't know how a thin sliver of ebony would stand up to being removed and refitted a few times. A slight over-tightening of the screws is likely to split it

Ebony is very resistant, mine are 2 mm and there is no problem. However you can do a multilaminated. I usually do this specially with control cavity covers.

Scorpionscar

9 hours ago, Norris said:

I was wondering what to use for a TRC on my build. Lovely job scorp, soon to be plagiarised 

I'm using now for TRC ebony and stainless steel, but love working with ebony because appart from its beauty is very easy to work with, bevels are done quick and easy with the proper tools. Glad you like it Norris!!!

Scorpionscar

5 hours ago, ScottR said:

Your patience and attention to detail is awe-inspiring.

Very nice work.

SR

Thank you so much ScottR. I'm glad you like it!!!

3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Very nice work 

Thank you so much AndyJr1515!!!

Scorpionscar

Thank you so much for your advise Prostheta. Today I'm goin to do rehearshals in order to see what happens. I'll follow what you have told me.

Scorpionscar

Today I've been making the bevels os the truss rod covers made out of ebony. I did it with the help of the dremel and much patience, but the result well worth the effort. After that I polished and buffed. Over them will go my signature. Some pics:

Scorpionscar

15 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Yes, spray a couple of dust coats to seal the decal. The amount of solvent being laid onto the decal is low enough so that it doesn't melt. These decals melt with both alcohol and stronger solvents, however I sealed it with with a couple of light dust coats 2mins between from a 2K aerosol, then laid on a couple of proper coats.

 

It's not the best example (I broke the decal in the lower part of the L, plus I didn't completely grain fill the Wengé) however it was only a prototype run. The 2K has been sanded back with 800 grit to get rid of orange peel like you were experiencing. The next layers should build up high enough so that it can be cut back to a perfectly (for the most part....) flat surface.

Thank you so much Prostheta!!! I understand when you refer to "dust coat" means in my case, poliuretane lacquer + catalyst without solvent?

Scorpionscar

I have a question, decals, logos, vinyls open a world of possibilities, but when you attach to the headstock and spry lacquer or poliretane over it, I think the normal think is the solvents miss the sticker. I've just done a test with, alcohol, no problem, with solvent, the drawing dessapeared. Tomorrow I'll try with clear poliuretane without solvent...Any advise about this issue?

Scorpionscar

6 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Rothko & Frost in the UK. I had a sheet of decals printed in black and gold.

Thank you so much. I'll have a look at their website.

Scorpionscar

Really amazing Prostheta. Impeccable work, beautiful logo and beautiful pic. How did you do the gold colour?

Scorpionscar