Goodkingzog

I have a Stickbass, 36” scale 8-string - really looking forward to how this turns out

The body reminds me very much of Schecter's Stiletto range. Looks fantastic, should definitely complete it

Hey @curtisa, if you forward to 7 minutes in, you'll see what the drawer in the headpiece is for

On 9 August 2016 at 1:36 AM, Andyjr1515 said:

Now this is the part where I always think I'm going nowhere, but if I skimp on it, I know most likely I really am going to go nowhere....it's the planning stage. The number of times I've routed out a weight relief chamber, and then gone to fit the bridge bushes and...ahhhh, now then, never thought of THAT 

The main issue here is about balance, weight distribution and scale reach.

Although the original EB3 was short scale (although they did do a few long scale ones later), Pete wants 34". He also wants it weight-relieved.  Alarm bells started ringing:

If you join the neck where the original SG bass was joined, you will struggle to reach the first fret and it will be neck heavy like there is no tomorrow. This is exacerbated by the short upper horn of the SG design - how's this for a comparison? 

BUT, if you bring the bridge rearward to shorten the apparent scale length, you won't be able to reach the upper frets, due to the relatively small cut-out of the lower horn.

So I have spent a lot of time this morning checking the maximum I can afford to bring the bridge back with where that logically means the fretboard needs to meet the body and what the maximum reach from the lower cutout to the 22nd fret would be (it will have 24 frets but I reckon Pete will only be able to comfortably reach 22 of them)

With a tiny tweak of the lower horn to deepen the cutout and a small extension to the upper horn, I reckon I can get it to work.

This works from a functional point of view:

 

Even when weight relieved and long-scale, it should balance on the strap with the strap button somewhere around the 13th/14th fret. There should also be decent access up to and including the 22nd fret. 

The upper bout to lower bout length difference is greater than a standard SG but I think visually it will look close enough for an 'in the style of' (as there is a size difference on the real ones, although not the slight offset), particularly once the bevels have been carved. Anyway, no point in building something Pete can't play so I think this is the shape and layout I'll go for.

Now I can work out the controls and weight-relief chamber positions and, hopefully, soon, start cutting some wood 

The current model of the EB3 available from Epiphone is 34", does anyone know if it has balance issues?

http://www.epiphone.com/Products/Bass/EB-3.aspx

Try removing the neck and sanding the 2 joining surfaces (neck and neck pocket). The photo seems to show material (wood?) that is around the screws. Any material between will contribute to the gap

On 19 February 2016 at 6:37 AM, birch said:

I'm contemplating a neck joint that I've been thinking about but haven't been able to find any examples of its use so I'm wondering if there is a good reason that I'm not aware of... I want to do a set neck but my neck blank is not long enough to to a traditional tenon so I'm thinking about glueing it in through the back of the body. This would allow me to avoid a heel and carve a smooth transition from neck to body and make a nice flamed maple accent in the back of the body. I think it would also provide enough surface area for a strong glue joint.

Is there any reason why this is a bad idea?

Late to this thread but Warwick have used this for their set necks